SILK   MANUFACTURE 


IN  THE 


UNITED  STATES.  , 


BY 


WM.   C.   WYCKOFF, 

(Secretary  of  the  Silk  Association  of  America}. 


''—< 


PUBLISHED  AND  FOR  SALE   AT 

446    BROOME    STREET, 
YORK. 

iriVBESITtf 

Da 


LOUIS    BELCHER,     PRINTER, 
187  CHERRY  STREET,   N.   V. 

1883. 


PREFACE. 


A  very  small  number  of  copies  has  been  issued  at 

Washington,  of  the  Report  to  the  Census  of  1880,  on 

the  Silk  Manufacturing  Inditstry  of  the  United  States. 

The  Report   is  here  reproduced  in  a  more  convenient 

form,  to  meet  a  demand  for  its  zvider  circulation. 

The  historical  sketch  of  attempts  in  Silk  Culture, 
beginning  with  the  earliest  settlements  in  this  country, 
will,  it  is  believed,  be  found  of  special  interest  at  the 
present  time.  The  Tent  ft  Annual  Report  of  the  Silk 
Association  of  America  supplies  statistics  of  manufac- 
t^tre  and  import  to  a  later  date  than  the  census.  The 
Directory  of  Silk  Manufacturers  is  compiled  from  new 
returns,  showing  the  most  recent  changes  of  firms  and 

addresses. 

W.   C.    W. 

November,  1882. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

History  of  the  Silk  Industry 5 

Census  Statistics  of  the  Industry,  to  1880 54 

Index  to  History  and  Census  Statistics 65 

Tenth  Annual  Report,  Silk  Association  of  America 75 

Statistics  of  Tenth  Annual  Report 91 

Directory  of  American  Silk  Manufacture 107 

Directory  of  Raw  Silk  Importers  and  Brokers 139 

Business  Announcements 141 


REPORT 


ON  THE 


SILK  MANUFACTURING 


OF  THE 


UNITED  STATES. 


COMPILED  BY 


WM.   C.  WYCKOFF, 


SPECIAL  AGENT  FOR  THE 


TENTH  CENSUS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL 


NEW  YORK,  N.  Y.,  October  7,  1881. 
Hon.  FRANCIS  A.  WALKER, 

Superintendent  of  Census,   Washington,  D.  C. 

DEAR  SIR  : — I  have  the  honor  to  submit  herewith  a  report  upon 
the  .silk  manufactures  of  the  United  States.  The  report  covers  the 
entire  period  from  the  earliest  introduction  of  silk  into  America  to 
June  30,  1880.  I  am  under  obligation^,  which  I  take  great  pleasure 
in  acknowledging,  for  assistance  in  the  historical  references,  to  Mr. 
J.  Carson  Brevoort,  of  Brooklyn,  to  the  Long  Island  Historical 
Society,  and  to  the  Society  Library  of  New  York  ;  and  for  efficient 
aid,  in  the  statistical  portion  of  the  work,  to  Mr.  P.  T.  Wood,  of 
New  Providence,  New  Jersey.  In  closing  my  labors  I  embrace  the 
opportunity  to  express  my  hearty  thanks  for  the  uniform  promptness 
and  courtesy  of  your  office  at  Washington. 

Yours  respectfully, 

WM.  C.  WYCKOFF, 

Special  Agent* 


SILK  MANUFACTURE. 


The  Spanish  conquest  of  Mexico  was  the  means  of  introducing 
the  silk  industry  on  this  continent.  We  may  dismiss  the  vexed 
question  alluded  to  by  Prescott  (a)  as  to  whether,  the  Aztecs  made 
fabrics  containing  silk.  Humboldt  declares  that  the  material  they 
used  was  not  the  product  of  the  Bombyx  mori.  (b)  Herrera  asserts 
that  there  was  no  silk,  (c)  and  Acosta,  that  there  were  no  mulberry 
trees  in  the  Indies  prior  to  their  introduction  from  Spain.  The 
voluminous  work  of  Hernandez  (d]  gives  full  accounts  of  the  plants 
and  animals  of  the  new  world,  and  does  not  mention  the  silkworm 
or  the  mulberry. 

In  the^ear  1522,  Cortes,  as  ruler  of  New  Spain  (Mexico)  pre- 
pared a  plan  for  its  government  ;  the  details  included  the  appoint- 
ment of  officials  in  charge  of  the  silk  industry.  The  first  step  was. 
the  planting  of  mulberry  trees,  and  we  learn  that  these  were  flourish- 
ing near  the  city  of  Mexico  a  few  years  afterward.  The  record  of 
certain  legal  proceedings  has  secured  to  history  the  date  of  the 
introduction  of  the  silkworm  into  America.  After  Cortes  withdrew 
from  personal  rule  in  New  Spain,  the  authorities  who  were  placed  in 
charge  by  the  king  made  an  investigation  of  what  had  been  done  by 
the  board  of  auditors  who  preceded  them.  This  was  in  the  year 
1531.  Among  the  items  of  this  procedure  is  a  statement  (e)  that  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  silkworm  seed  (eggs)  was  sent  on  public 
account  from  Spain  to  Francisco  de  Santa  Cruz,  a  citizen  of  Mexico. 
The  seed  arrived  in  safety,  and  was  placed  by  Francisco  with 
Auditor  Diego  Delgadillo,  who  was  a  native  of  Granada,  and  pre- 
sumably knew  something  of  silk  culture  in  his  own  country,  where 
it  was  introduced  by  the  Moors.  Delgadillo  made  use  of  the  eggs 
in  a  garden  about  a  league  from  the  capital,  where  mulberry  trees 
were  in  good  condition  for  the  support  of  the  worms.  The  experi- 
ment was  eminently  successful.  The  auditor  returned  two  ounces 

a  Conquest  of  Mexico,  vol.  i,  p.  144;  note. 
b  Essai  Politique,  book  v,  chap.  12. 
c  Historia  General,  decade  v,  book  vi,  chap.  12. 

d  Rerum  Medicarum  NOVDS  Hispanice  Thesaurus  (Rome.  1651),  first  published 
in  1607. 

t'  Historia  General,  decade  iv,  book  ix,  chap.  4.     Also,  Descripcion,  chap.  x. 


6  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

of  vsggs  to  Francisco;  atid  retained  enough  to  supply  various  amounts 

to  other  people.  ^ "The*  point   of  the   accusation  against   Delgadillo 

AW^tfratbttsqlcl.  this  \sefed  at  $60  per  ounce  ;   thus  disposing  of  the 

"property  of  the' CIOWIT for  his  own  benefit.     He   was  convicted   of 

the  crime,  though   credited  with   the   introduction   of  silk  into  the 

country. 

This  was  the  beginning  of  an  industry  in  the  culture  of  silk, 
its  manufacture  into  woven  goods,  and  their  export  abroad,  which 
has  not  generally  attracted  the  notice  of  modern  writers  on  the  sub- 
ject. Acosta  gives  the  following  account  : 

But  the  silke  that  is  mad«  in  New  Spaine  is  transported  into  other  countries,  as 
to  Peru.  There  were  no  mulberrie  trees  in  the  Indies  but  such  as  were  brought 
from  Spaine,  and  they  grow  well,  especially  in  the  province  which  they  call  Mis- 
tecqua,  where  there  are  silkwormes,  and  they  put  to  worke '  the  silke  they  gather, 
whereof  they  make  very  good  taffetaes  :  Yet  to  this  day  they  have  made  neyther 
damaske,  sattin  nor  velvet.  ( a  ) 

By  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century  this  manufacture  had  almost 
wholly  ceased.  ( />) 

So  far  as  silk  culture  is  concerned,  however,  the  industry  was 
after  a  short  interval  to  reappear  on  this  continent,  and  unfold  itself 
in  the  sunshine  of  royal  favor.  A  brief  reference  to  European 
events  may  throw  light  on  the  causes  that  brought  about  the  new 
effort.  At  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century  Henry  IV,  of 
France,  was  at  the  height  of  his  glory  and  power..  Olivier  de  Serres, 
whom  the  French  call  "the  father  of  agriculture",  published  in  the 
year  1600  an  important  and  suggestive  book  on  field  husbandry. 
The  work  attracted  the  attention  of  the  king,  and  he  bestowed  high 
honor  and  authority  upon  its  author.  Upon  the  recommendation  of 
de  Serres,  14,000  mulberry  trees  were  brought  from  Italy  and  planted 
in  the  royal  gardens  of  France.  Shortly  afterward  silkworm  eggs 
were  similarly  procured,  and  other  measures  were  taken  to  encour- 
age the  nascent  manufacture.  The  prime  minister  of  the  king  looked 
coldly  upon  this  enterprise.  An  old  and  respectable  citizen,  the 
spokesman  of  a  deputation  from  the  silk  merchants  of  Paris,  was  at 
this  time  treated  with  extreme  rudeness  by  Sully.  The  quaint  garb 
of  the  merchant,  ornamented  with  various  silks,  was  made  the  subject 
of  mockery;  the  old  man,  while  on  his  knees  to  the  great  minister, 
was  twirled  around  and  dismissed  with  a  sneer.  Returning  to  his 
friends,  the  merchant  reported  that  the  servant  was  above  his 

a  The  Naturall  and  Morall  Historic  of  the  East  and  West  Indies,  by  Joseph 
de  Acosta,  book  iv,  chap.  32.     Edwd.  Grimestone's  transl. ;  London,  1604. 
b  Essai  Politique,  Humboldt,  book  v,  chap.  12. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES,  7 

master.  Never  was  there  a  greater  mistake.  The  king  had  a  will 
of  his  own,  and  was  about  to  help  the  silk  merchants  of  France 
toward  a  prosperity  far  beyona  their  dreams.  Sully  tells  the  story 
of  his  own  discomfiture,  (a)  "  I  exclaimed  against  this  project, 
which  I  never  liked;  but  the  king  was  prepossessed;  all  that  I  could 
say  was  futile."  In  vain  the  minister  argued  that  luxury  should  be 
repressed,  most  certainly  not  encouraged.  "  I  could  not  persuade 
him.  'Are  these/  he  said  to  me,  'the  good  reasons  you  have  to 
offer  ?  I  would  much  rather  fight  the  king  of  Spain  in  three  pitched 
battles  than  all  those  gentlemen  of  the  robe,  of  the  inkstand,  and  of 
the  city,  beside  their  wives  and  daughters,  whom  you  will  bring 
down  upon  me  with  your  fantastic  regulations/  " 

The  industry  was  established  in  France  and  made  notable 
progress,  as  to  both  culture  and  manufacture.  It 'soon  excited  the 
envy  of  (b)  James  I  of  England,  and  he  proceeded  to  copy,  even  in 
details,  the  performance  of  Henry  of  Navarre.  So  the  royal  gardens 
at  Oatlands  were  stocked  with  mulberry  trees  and  the  worms  were 
fed  on  English  soil.  In  1608  King  James  addressed  a  long  letter  on 
the  subject,  written  with  his  own  hand,  to  the  lords-lieutenant  of 
every  county  in  his. kingdom.  He  orders  that  they  shall  "persuade 
and  require  such  as  are  of  ability  to  buy  and  distribute  in  your 
county  the  number  of  ten  thousand  mulberry  plants,  which  shall  be 
delivered  to  them  at  the  rate  of  three  farthings  the  plant,  or  at  six 
shillings  the  hundred",  (c)  Mulberry  seeds  were  to  be  furnished 
also  in  the  following  spring,  and  to  be  similarly  distributed,  /.  e.,  at 
a  price.  The  supposed  wants  of  England  having  received  attention, 
America  was  next  looked  after.  In  fact,  however,  nearly  a  century 
elapsed  after  their  introduction  by  the  Spaniards  before  silkworm 
eggs  were  again  brought  to  this  continent  from  Europe,  and  King 
James  supplied  the  "seed".  The  undertaking  met  with  delay  at  the 
outset.  The  expedition  of  Sir  George  Summers  with  a  fleet  of  seven 
vessels  bound  for  the  shores  of  Virginia  in  1609,  suffered  shipwreck 
and  disaster.  Two  vessels  were  lost  entirely;  the  rest  were  driven 
by  storm  to  the  Bermudas.  A  part  of  the  expedition  ultimately 
reached  Virginia,  but  brought  no  silkworm  eggs.  This  was  two 
years  after  the  settlement  of  Jamestown  (named  in  honor  of  the 
king)  by  the  London  Company,  the  holders  of  a  grant  which  covered 
the  region  between  34°  and  41°  of  latitude.  There  is  abundant  evi- 

a  Memoires  de  Sully,  annee  1603,  liv.  xvi;  London,  1778,  vol.  v,  pp.  150-159. 
b  An  Essay  upon  the  Silk-Worm,  by  Henry  Barham;  London,  1719,  p.  46. 
c  Ibid.,  p.  50.     This  letter  was  printed  with   "Instructions  for  the  Increasing 
of  Mulberrie  Trees  and  the  Breeding  of  Silke-Worms"  (illust.),  London;  1609. 


8  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

dence  that  the  colonists  were  in  no  condition  at  this  period  to 
prosecute  silk  culture.  Indeed  they  were  soon  afterward  on  the 
verge  of  starvation. 

The  historian  of  the  unlucky  voyage  of  1609,  William  Strachy, 
seems  to  have  taken  much  interest  in  silk.  He  mentions  that  they 
found  silkworms  on  the  Bermuda  islands  rolled  up  in  the  leaves  of 
the  palmetto,  and  that  these  worms  were  like  those  described  by 
Acosta,  that  were  found  on  the  tunall  tree.  The  two  statements  are 
bewildering  errors,  and  it  is  worth  while  to  notice  them  as  of  a  piece 
with  many  records  of  native  silkworms  found  in  the  Bermudas  and 
on  the  American  continent.  The  true  silkworm  does  not  roll  itself 
in  palmetto  leaves.  Acosta  had  evidently  not  seen  the  "worms"  he 
refers  to;  his  description  of  the  cactus  on  which  they  feed  and  the 
red  dye  that  is  obtained  from  them,  shows  that  he  was  giving  an 
account  on  hearsay,  being  very  imperfectly  informed,  respecting  the 
cochineal  insect.  No  doubt  there  were  strong  representations  made 
to  King  James  of  the  fitness  of  the  colony  for  silk  raising.  Sir 
Thomas  Gates,  about  the  year  1610,  was  adjured  by  the  Council  of 
Virginia  to  "deal  plainly  with  them"  as  to  the  capabilities  of  the  new 
country  and  the  prospects  of  the  colony.  He  replied  under  "  a 
solemn  and  sacred  oath".  In  the  course  of  this  testimony  he  says: 

There  are  innumerable  white  mulberry  trees,  which  in  so  warme  a  climate  may 
cherish  and  feede  millions  of  Silkeworms,  and  return  us  in  a  very  short  time  as 
great  plenty  of  Silke  as  is  vented  into  the  whole  world  from  all  parts  of  Italy,  (a) 

For  some  years  the  colony  was  in  a  forlorn  condition,  (b)  but  in 
1619  great  efforts  were  made  for  its  relief.  Silk  culture  appears 
prominently  as  among  the  means  to  help  the  people  out  of  their 
poverty,  in  the  measures  taken  by  legislative  and  governing  powers 
on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic.  The  colonial  assembly,  in  its  first 
brief  session  of  five  days,  found  time  to  order  the  planting  of  mul- 
berry trees  and  the  rearing  of  silkworms,  (c)  The  following  is 
recorded  as  one  of  the  items  in  a  sort  of  invoice  described  as  "A 
Note  of  the  Shipping,  Men  and  Provisions  sent  to  Virginia  by  the 
Treasurer  and  Company  in  the  Yeere  1619":  (d) 

a  Purchas,  his  Pilgrimes,  vol.  iv,  p.  1734. 

b  Sir  Dudley  Diggs  asserts  in  1615:  4'The  great  Expence  that  the  nobility 
and  Gentry  have  been  at  in  planting  Virginia  is  in  no  way  recompensed  by  the  poor 
Returns  from  thence."  An  Historical  and  Chronological  Deduction  of  the  Origin 
of  Commerce,  by  Adam  Anderson;  London,  folio  edition,  1764;  vol.  i,  p  494 

c  A  Reporte  of  the  Manner  of  Proceedings  in  the  General  Assembly,  con- 
vented  at  James  City  in  Virginia,  July  30,  1619,  by  John  Pory,  the  Secretary  and 
Speaker. 

d  Purchas,  vol.  iv,  p.  1777. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  g 

Silke:  for  which  that  Countrey  is  exceeding  proper,  having  innvmerable  store 
of  Mvlberry  Trees  of  the  best,  and  some  Silkwormes  naturally  found  upon  them, 
producing  excellent  Silke  :  some  whereof  is  to  be  scene.  For  the  sitting  vp  of 
which  Commoditie  his  Majesty  hath  beene  graciously  pleased  now  the  second  time 
(the  former  having  miscarried)  to  bestow  vpon  the  Company  plenty  of  Silkwormes  - 
seed  of  his  owne  store,  being  the  best. 

The  royal  gardens  at  Oatlands  furnished  this  supply  of  eggs,  and 
from  there  also  a  person  skilled  in  silk  culture  was  sent  to  give 
instruction  to  the  colonists,  In  the  same  year  King  James  issued 
his  famous  "decree  and  proclamation"  against  tobacco,  checking 
its  import  into  England  by  an  almost  prohibitory  duty.  Nor  was 
that  duty  intended  to  protect  home  industry  in  the  Virginia  weed, 
for  another  proclamation  in  that  year  forbade  the  cultivation  of 
tobacco  in  England  and  Wales,  and  the  plants  growing  in  the  king- 
dom were  uprooted.  The  king  was  undoubtedly  anxious  to  have 
silk  raised  instead  of  tobacco  throughout  his  domain/  Another  cir- 
cumstance made  1619  a  memorable  year ;  it  was  then  that  this  most 
Christian  monarch,  while  Striving  to  check  the  comparatively  harm- 
less vice  of  using  tobacco,  sanctioned  and  authorized  by  royal 
charter  a  joint-stock  company  m  London  with  the  exclusive  privi- 
lege of  taking  negroes  from  Africa  into  slavery  in  the  colonies.  The 
effects  of  that  enterprise  were  permanent. 

Sending  out  silkworm  eggs  from  England  was  followed  in  1622 
by  the  most  peremptory  and  urgent  directions  to  encourage  silk 
culture.  Aid  was  promised  on  the  one  hand  to  colonists  who 
entered  heartily  into  the  work,  and  on  the  other  hand  punishments 
were  ordered  for  those  who  neglected  the  matter.  As  will  be  seen 
by  the  documents,  the  king  was  impatient  and  would  brook  no 
further  delay  : 
His  Maiesties  gracious  Letter  to  the  Earle  of  South-hampton,  Treasurer,  and  to  the 

Counsell  and  Company  of  Virginia  here  :  commanding  the  present  setting  vp 

of  Silke  Workes,  and  planting  of  Vines  in  Virginia:  (a) 

Right  trusty  and  wellbeloued,  We  greete  you  well:  whereas  We  understand, 
that  the  soyle  in  Virginia  naturally  yieldeth  store  of  excellent  Mulberry  trees,  We 
have  taken  into  our  Princely  consideration  the  great  benefit  that  may  grow  to  the 
Adventurers  and  Planters,  by  the  breede  of  Silkewormes  and  setting  vp  of  Silke- 
workes  in  those  parts.  And  therefore  of  Our  gracious  inclination  to  a  designe  of  so 
much  honour  and  advantage  to  the  publik,  We  have  thought  good,  as  at  sundry 
other  times,  so  now  more  particularly  to  recommend  it  to  your  speciall  care,  hereby 
charging  and  requiring  you  to  take  speedy  order,  that  our  people  there  use  all 
possible  diligence  in  breeding  Silkewormes,  and  erecting  Silkeworkes,  and  that  they 
rather  bestow  their  travell  in  compassing  this  rich  and  solid  Commodity,  then  in 
that  of  Tobacco;  which,  beside  much  vnnecessary  expence,  brings  with  it  many  dis- 

a  Purchas,  vol.  iv,  p.  1787,  et  seg. 


10  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

» 

orders  and  inconueniences.  And  for  as  much  as  Our  seruant,  John  Bonoell  (a)  hath 
taken  paines  in  setting  downe  the  true  vse  of  the  Silkeworme,  together  with  the  Art 
of  Silkemaking,  and  of  planting  Vines,  and  that  his  experience  and  abilities  may 
much  conduce  to  the  aduancement  of  this  businesse ;  We  doe  hereby  likewise  require 
you  to  cause  his  directions,  both  for  the  said  Silke\vorkes  and  Vineyards,  to  be 
carefully  put  in  practice  thorowout  our  Plantations  there,  that  so  the  worke  may 
goe  on  cheerefully,  and  receive  no  more  interruptions  nor  delayes. 

Giuen  vnder  Our  Signet,  at  Our  Pallace  of  Westminster,  the  ninth  day  of  luly, 
in  the  twentieth  yeare  of  our  Raigne  of  England,  France  and  Ireland,  and  of 
Scotland  the  fiue  and  fiftieth. 

To  our  right  trusty  and  right  wellbeloued  Cousin  and  Councellour,  HENRY, 
Earle  of  South-hampton,  Treasurer  of  our  Plantation  in  Virginia,  and  to  Our  trusty 
and  wellbeloued,  the  Deputy,  and  others  of  our  said  Plantation. 

Virginia.  WTINDEBANK. 

The  royal  instructions  were  transmitted  and  strongly  enforced, 
as  appears  by  the  following  communication: 

The  Treasurour,   Counsell  and   Company  of    Virginia,    to  the    Gouvernour  and 

Counsell  of  State  in  Virginia  residing: 

After  our  very  hearty  commendations :  His  Sacred  Majesty,  out  of  his  high 
vvisedome  and  care  of  the  noble  Plantation  of  Virginia,  hath  beene  graciously  pleased 
to  direct  his  Letters  to  us  here  in  England,  thereby  commanding  vs  to  aduance  the 
setting  vp  of  Silkworkes,  and  planting  of  Vineyards;  as  by  the  Copy  herewith  sent, 
you  may  perceive.  The  intimation  of  his  Maiesties  pleasure,  we  conceiue  to  be  a 
motiue  sufficient,  to  induce  you  to  imploy  all  your  indeuors  to  the  setting  forward 
those  two  Staple  Commodities  of  Silke  and  Wine;  which  brought  to  their  per- 
fection, will  infinitely  redound  to  the  honour,  benefit,  and  comfort  of  the  Colony, 
and  of  this  whole  Kingdome:  yet  we,  in  discharge  of  our  duties,  doe  againe  renew 
our  often  and  iterated  Instructions,  and  inuite  you  cheerefully,  to  fall  vpon  these 
two  so  rich,  and  necessary  Commodities.  And  if  you  shall  finde  any  person,  either 
through  negligence  or  wilfulnesse,  to  omit  the  planting  of  Vines,  and  Mtdberry 
trees,  in  orderly  and  husbandly  manner,  as  by  the  Booke  is  prescribed,  or  the  plac- 
ing of  conuenient  roornes  for  the  breeding  of  Wormes;  we  desire  they  may  by 
seuere  censures  and  punishment,  be  compelled  thereunto.  And  on  the  contrary, 
that  all  fauour  and  possible  assistance  be  giuen  to  such  as  yeelde  willing  obedience 
to  his  Highnesse  Commands  therein.  The  breech  or  performance  whereof,  as  we 
are  bound  to  giue  a  strict  account,  so  will  it  also  be  required  of  you  the  Gotternour 
and  Cotmsell  especially.  Herein  there  can  be  no  Plea,  either  of  difficulty  or  im- 
possibility ;  but  all  the  contrary  appeares,  by  the  naturall  abundance  of  those  two 
excellent  Plants  afore-named  euerywhere  in  Virginia;  neither  will  such  excuses  be 
admitted,  nor  any  other  pretences  serue,  whereby  the  businesse  be  at  all  delayed  ; 
and  as  wee  formerly  sent  at  our  great  charge  the  French.  Vignerons  to  you,  to  teach 
you  their  Art ;  so  for  the  same  pvrpose  we  now  commend  this  Booke  vnto  you,  to 
serue  as  an  Instructour  to  euery  one,  and  send  you  store  of  them  to  be  dispersed 
ouer  the  whole  Colony,  to  euery  Master  of  a  Family  one,  Silke-seede  yc;u  shall 
receiue  also  by  this  Ship,  sufficient  to  store  euery  man:  so  that  there  wants  nothing, 

a  This  name  is  also  spelled  "Bonoeil".  Vid.  Barham's  Essay,  which  also 
gives  these  letters. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  n 

but  indvstry  in  the  Planter,  svddenly  to  bring  the  making  of  Si  Ike  to  its  perfection: 
which  either  for  their  owne  benefit  (we  hope)  they  will  willingly  indeuour,  or  by  a 
wholesome  and  necessary  seuerity  they  must  be  inforced. 

The  letter  goes  on  to  state  that  it  is  of  urgent  character,  and 
not  to  be  taken  as  a  common  instruction.  There  is  a  marginal  note 
stating  that  the  "Booke"  referred  to  contains  good  rules  for  silk- 
works,  vines,  and  other  husbandry.  The  document  itself  is  signed 
by  the  Earl  of  Southampton.  In  1623  the  legislature  of  the  colony 
issued  further  orders  requiring  mulberry  trees  to  be  planted,  the  fine 
for  neglect  being  20  pounds  of  tobacco.  The  act  also  offered  a 
premium  of  50  pounds  of  tobacco  for  every  pound  of  reeled  silk 
produced,  (a) 

At  this  point  we  can  give  what  is  probably  the  earliest  quota- 
tion for  raw  silk  in  this  country.  It  includes  also  the  price  of 
cocoons;  here  described  as  "  coddes  "  and  elsewhere  as  "bottomes". 
Too  much  stress  should  not  be  laid  upon  the  accuracy  of  the  record, 
as  it  was  put  in  print  nearly  thirty  years  after  the  period  to  which  it 
refers.  The  traffic  could  not  have  been  large,  but  there  is  other 
evidence  that  some  silk  was  made,  and  we  may  in  any  case  regard 
the  quotations  as  "offering  prices"  of  that  date: 

From  "A  valuation  of  the  commodities  growing  and  to  be  had  in  Virginia: 
valued  in  the  year  1621.  And  since  those  Times  improved  in  all  more  or  lesse,  in 
some  l.<,  in  others  *£,  in  many  double,  and  in  some  treble. 

"Silk  Coddes,  two  shillings  sixpence  the  pound. 

"Raw  silk,  13^.  4</.  the  pound,  now  at  2$s.  and  2&s.  per  pound. 

"Silk  grasse  to  be  used  for  Cordage,  6^/.  the  pound."  This  has  reference  to  a 
fibrous  plant  growing  wild  and  extensively  in  the  colony.  Queen  Elizabeth  had  a 
gown  made  of  this  material,  described  as  "a  substantial  and  rich  piece  of  Gro- 
graine".  It  was  hoped  that  by  cultivation  the  fibre  of  this  grass  could  be  improved 
so  as  to  equal  the  silk  which  it  was  said  to  resemble.  (/;) 

The  art  of  weaving  broad  silks  was  introduced  into  England, 
and  those  who  were  so  engaged  were  included  in  the  great  company 
of  weavers,  at  or  about  this  period;  the  date  generally  assigned  for 
the  event  being  1620.  The  silk  throwsters  of  London  formed  a  cor- 
poration and  were  chartered  in  1629.  (<r)  The  needs  of  the  grow- 
ing manufacture  in  the  mother  country  probably  caused  the  advance 
of  price  of  the  raw  material  in  the  colony.  Royal  encouragement 
was  of  brief  duration.  The  king  and  the  Virginia  Company  quar- 
tz This  curious  act  was  reproduced  in  full  in  a  monthly  publication,  The 
American  Silk  Grower,  Philadelphia,  December,  1838. 

b  Virginia  :  More  especially  the  South  part  thereof  *       * — the  fertile 

Carolana,  by  Edward  Williams;  second  edition,  London,  1650;  reprint,  Force's 
Tracts,  vol.  iii,  No.  xi,  p.  51. 

c  Act  5,  Charles  I.     Anderson's  Origin  of  Commerce,  ii,  pp.  4  and  36. 


12  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

relied,  and  the  latter  were  ousted  from  all  their  rights  and  powers  by 
proclamation  of  James  I,  July  15,  1624.  On  his  accession  to  the 
throne  in  the  next  year,  Charles  I  took  the  government  of  the  colony 
into  his  own  hands,  (a)  Very  little  progress  in  silk  culture  seems  to 
have  been  made  during  the  reign  of  that  unfortunate  monarch. 
Under  the  Protectorate,  interest  in  the  subject  was  revived,  and 
several  curious  tracts  were  written  on  behalf  of  the  industry.  The 
most  noted  of  these  essays  were  by  ("E.  W.")  Edward  Williams  (b) 
'(1G50)  and  Hartlib  (1652-'55).  Williams  regards  the  production  of 
silk  as  one  of  the  wonders  of  nature  ;  a  mystery,  which  if  taught  to 
the  savages,  might  impress  them  with  pious  awe.  He  says:  (c} 

1 .  First,  the  Indian  is  naturally  curious  and  very  ingenious,  which  they  show 
in  all  their  works  and  imitations ;  the  only  thing  that  frights  them  from  bringing  any 
work  to  perfection,  is  the  labour  attending  it. 

2.  But  to  feed  his  curiosity,  there  is  nothing  in  the  worid  more  proper  than 
this  curious  atome  of  Nature  the  Silkeworme  :  to  see  this  untaught  Artist  spin  out 
his  transparent  bowels,  labour  such  a  monument  out  of  his  owne  intralls,  as  may  be 
the  shame,  the  blush  of  Artists,  such  a   Robe  that  Solomon  in  all  his  glory  might 
confesse  the  meannesse  of  his  apparell,  in  relation  to  the  workemen,  cannot  but 
bring  them  to  admiration;  and  that  those  spirits   whose  thoughts  are  of  a  higher 
wing  than  ordinary,  may  bee  convinced  of  a  divine  power  of  the  hand  of  God  in  the 
Creation:  which  gayned  upon  him,  it  will  not  be  impossible  to  drive  him  to  an 
acknowledgment  of  Redemption,   if  private  ends  or  any  other  respect  than  that  to 
God's  glory,  possesse  not  those  who  should  cover  a  multitude  of  sinnes,  by  winning 
a  soule  to  his  Creator,  and  forcing  him  from  the  jaws  of  his  Destroyer. 

3.  In  this  curiosity  there  is  little  or  no  labour  (a  thing  which  they  abhorre) 
their  women  and  children  will  bee  sufficient  to  goe  through  with  it;  and  if  they 
could  but  be  brought  to  it,  our  Trade  with  them  for  Silke  would  be  of  greater  con- 
sequence, then"  all  their  Furs  or  other  commodities  put  together. 

This  is  followed  by  an  estimate  that  the  silk  thus  produced 
might  be  purchased  in  barter  at  five  shillings  per  pound;  the  barter 
to  be  for  British  cloths  which  it  was  hoped  the  Indians  might  be 
induced  to  want  when  they  were  so  far  civilized  as  to  require  cloth- 
ing. A  similar  idea  impressed  itself  on  Samuel  Hartlib,  who  was  an 
enterprising  merchant  of  London,  and  who  has  a  better  chance  of 
remembrance  in  literature  than  the  other  silk  essayists  of  the  period, 
since  Milton  dedicated  to  him  a  Treatise  on  Education.  The  title 
of  one  of  Hartlib's  books  is  itself  a  curiosity: 

"The  Reformed  Virginian  Silk- Worm,  or,  a  Rare  and  New  Discovery  of  a 
speedy  way,  and  easie  means,  found  out  by  a  young  Lady  in  England,  she  having 

a  Jefferson's  Notes  on  Virginia,  p.  182, 

b  Virginia's  Discovery  of  Silke- Wormes,  with  their  Benefit.  An  Implanting 
of  Mulberry  Trees,  by  E.  W.,  London,  1650.  The  engravings  in  this  work  are 
exquisitely  quaint. 

c  Force's  Tracts,  vol.  iii,  No.  xi,  p.  93. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  13 

made  full  proof  thereof  in  May,  Anno  1652.  For  the  feeding  of  Silk-worms  in  the 
Woods,  on  the  Mulberry-Tree-leaves  in  Virginia:  Who  after  forty  dayes  time, 
present  their  most  rich  golden-coloured  silken  Fleece,  to  the  instant  wonderful  en- 
riching of  all  the  Planters  there,  requiring  from  them  neither  cost,  labour,  or 
hindrance  in  any  of  their  other  employments  whatsoever.  And  also  to  the  good 
hopes  that  the  Indians,  seeing  and  finding  that  there  is  neither  Art,  Skill,  or  Pains 
in  the  thing:  they  will  readily  set  upon  it,  being  by  the  benefit  thereof  inabled  to 
buy  of  the  English  (in  way  of  Truck  for  their  Silk-bottoms)  all  those  things  that 
they  most  desire."  (<?) 

In  his  introduction,  Mr.  Hartlib  refers  to  the  efforts  of  King 
James  to  extend  silk  culture  in  England  by  planting  mulberry  trees 
and  rearing  silkworms.  The  Hartlib  essay  is  addressed  to  the. 
planters  of  Virginia,  and  is  designed  to  urge  them  in  the  same  indus- 
try and  to  exhibit  the  superior  advantages  they  may  enjoy  by 
obtaining  the  cocoons  of  certain  native  insects  producing  wild  silk. 
The  Indians  were  to  be  pressed  into  this  service,  in  the  hope  of 
converting  them  to  Christianity  and  making  a  profit  at  the  same  time, 
and  the  essay  overflows  with  pious  phrases  and  calculations  of  gain, 
curiously  intermingled.  The  insect  and  its  cocoon  are  described  as 
of  extraordinary  size,  as  follows: 

"The  fashion  of  the  Botome.(^)  The  Silk  Bottome  of  the  naturall  Worm  in 
Virginia,  found  there  in  the  woods,  is  ten  Inches  about,  and  six  Inches  in  length  to 
admiration:  &  whereas  ours  in  Europe  have  their  Sleave  and  loose  Silke  on  the  out- 
side; and  then  in  a  more  closer  covering  they  intombe  themselves.  These  rare 
Worms,  before  they  enclose  themselves  up,  fill  with  silk  the  great  emptiness,  and 
afterward  inclose  themselves  in  the  middle  of  it,  so  they  have  a  double  bottom. 
The  loose  Sleave  silk  is  all  on  the  outside  of  that  compass,  for  if  that  were  reckoned 
in,  the  compasse  of  the  Bottom  would  far  exceed  this  proportion:  But  this  is  suffi- 
cient to  be  the  Wonder  of  the  whole  world  :  to  the  Glory  of  the  Creatour,  and 
Exaltation  of  VIRGINIA."  (c) 

The  essay  concludes  with  "Ryming  lines",  "collected  by  a  young 
Scholar,  out  of  Letters",  sent  from  Virginia  to  England.  A  few 
specimens  will  suffice: 

Where  Wormes  and  Food  doe  naturally  abound, 
A  Gallant  Silken  Trade  must  there  be  found: 
Virginia  excells  the  World  in  both, 
Envie  nor  malice  can  gaine  say  this  troth,  (d) 


Her  Worms  are  huge  whose  bottoms  dare 
With  Lemmons  of  the  largest  size  compare. 
***** 

Master  William  Wright  of  Nansamound 
Found  Bottoms  above  seven  Inches  round,  (e) 


a  London,  1655. 

b  This  word  is  variously  spelled. 

f  Hartlib,  p.  18. 

d  Ibid.,  p.  33. 

e  Ibid.,  p.  34. 


14  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

But  although  a  governor  of  the  Colony,  Edward  Diggs,  joined 
the  ranks  of  the  essayists,  (a)  it  does  not  appear  that  the  planters 
were  stirred  to  much  activity  in  raising  silk.  The  hopes  that  illu- 
mine the  pages  of  many  writers  of  the  period  were  slenderly  if  at  all 
fulfilled.  The  causes  of  such  complete  failure  are  not  obvious. 
The  historian  Bancroft  has  summed  up  the  subject  in  a  resounding 
sentence  which  declares  that  "the  culture  of  silk,  long,  earnestly, 
and  frequently  commended  to  the  attention  of  Virginia,  is  success- 
fully pursued  only  where  a  superiority  of  labor  exists  in  a  redun- 
dant population". 

Punishments  and  rewards  were  alike  in  vain.  An  act  of  the 
colonial  assembly  in  1656  imposed  a  fine  of  ten  pounds  of  tobacco 
on  any  planter  who  had  not  at  least  ten  mulberry  trees  to  every 
hundred  acres.  A  premium  of  4,000  pounds  of  tobacco  was  given 
as  a  reward  for  remaining  in  the  business  of  silk  culture  in  the 
colony.  In  1657,  10,000  pounds  of  tobacco  were  offered  to  any  one 
exporting  ^200  worth  of  raw  silk,  and  5,000  pounds  of  tobacco  to 
any  one  producing  1,000  pounds  of  "wound  silk"  in  a  year.  The 
act  of  1656  was  repealed  in  1658,  but  was  revived  in  1660.  A  re- 
ward was  offered  in  1662,  (b)  of  50  pounds  of  tobacco  for  every 
pound  of  silk  raised,  and  Sir  William  Berkeley,  the  governor  of 
Virginia,  received,  September  12,  pressing  instructions  from  King 
Charles  II  to  urge  forward  the  industry.  But  it  is  difficult  to  find 
any  record  of  the  product.  There  is  indeed  a  tradition,  treated 
rather  incredulously  by  historians,  that  the  king  at  his  coronation 
in  1660  wore  a  robe  and  hose  of  Virginia  silk.  A  letter  of  instruc- 
tions to  Governor  Berkeley  gives  color  to  this  legend  in  the  follow- 
ing phrase:  "We  ourself  having  made  experience  of  the  Silk  grown 
there  and  finding  it  to  be  equal  to  any  we  have  seen."  (c) 

In  1666  all  acts  giving  bounties  for  silk  or  requiring  mulberry 
trees  to  be  planted  were  repealed;  in  1669  there  was  a  brief  revival 
of  the  bounties,  but  after  that,  all  legislative  encouragement  ceased. 
(d}  The  mulberry  had  been  abundantly  planted,  and  one  claimant 
for  bounties  proved  that  he  had  70,000  trees  growing  in  1664. 
Governor  Berkeley  "made  essays"  of  flax,  hemp,  silk,  and  other 

a  Writing  in  1654,  Governor  Diggs  mentions  that  he  had  raised  "400  pound 
weight  of  silk  bottomes",  and  he  adds:  "  This  next  spring  there  will  be  divers  tryals 
made  of  the  hopeful  natural  Worms  that  you  so  highly  prize,  and  not  without  good 
cause. "  Hartlib,  p.  28;  also,  Barham,  p.  100. 

b  History  of  Virginia,  by  Robert  Beverley;  London,  {705,  vol.  i,  p.  58. 

c  Hazard's  Historical  Collections,  vol.  ii,  p.  608. 

d  Twentieth  Congress,  istsess.,  H.  R.  Doc.  158,  p.  14. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  15 

productions,  (a)  and  in  1671,  in  an  answer  to  the  committee  on 
plantations,  used  the  cautious  expression:  "Of  late  we  have  begun  to 
make  silk."  In  that  year  the  number  of  persons  engaged  in  silk 
manufacture  in  England  was  estimated  at  40,000.  Perhaps  if  the 
pressure  brought  to  bear  upon  silk  culture  had  been  equally  applied 
to  the  making  of  silk  goods,  Virginia  might  have  shared  in  England's 
prosperity,  and  both  branches  of  the  industry  could  have  been  sus- 
tained. But  this  was  r.o  part  of  the  colonial  policy  of  Great  Britain. 
Even  the  trained  skill  of  Piedmont  was  not  welcomed.  Cromwell's 
navigation  laws  of  1651  not  only  prohibited  receipt  or  export  by 
other  than  English-built  ships,  manned  by  Englishmen,  but  also 
forbade  that  any  alien  should  manage  a  trade  or  factory  in  the 
colonies,  (b) 

The  Virginia  legislature  did  indeed  make  an  effort  toward 
manufacture,  by  ordering  each  county  to  establish  a  loom  and  sup- 
port a  weaver,  but  the  act  was  repealed  in  1684,  and  seems  to  have 
been  of  no  practical  effect.  There  are  no  records  of  any  further 
noteworthy  production  of  silk  in  Virginia,  though  we  are  told  that 
"the  mulberry  tree  grows  there  like  a  weed,  and  silkworms  have  been 
observed  to  thrive  extremely  and  without  hazard."  (c)  Virginia's 
weed  supplanted  even  the  thtifty  mulberry.  Formerly,  says  the 
historian  of  the  colony,  "there  was  great  encouragement  given  for 
making  of  linen,  silk,  etc.,  and  all  persons  not  performing  several 
things  toward  producing  of  them  were  put  under  a  fine.  Now,  all  en- 
couragement of  such  things  is  taken  away  or  entirely  dropped  by 
the  assemblies,  and  such  manufactures  are  always  neglected  when 
tobacco  brings  anything  of  a  price. "(//)  Lastly,  about  the  year  1698, 
Governor  Nicholson  sent  a  memorial  to  England,  in  which  he  urged 
parliament  to  pass  an  act  forbidding  the  plantations  to  make  their 
own  clothing.  But  there  was  no  necessity  for  choking  the  provincial 
industry;  it  was  dying  a  natural  death. 

During  the  latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  a  large  body 
of  French  Huguenots  settled  in  the  southern  part  of  the  province  of 
Carolina,  (e)  They  brought  with  them  a  knowledge  of  various  in- 
dustries, and  are  probably  to  be  credited  with  the  earliest  production 

a  Beverley's  Virginia,  i,  p.  58. 

b  Ibid.,  p.  51. 

c  Ibid.,  iii,  p.  239. 

d  Ibid.,  iii,  p.  261. 

e  The  official  division  of  the  Carolinas  into  North  and  South  was  not  made 
until  1728,  when  the  province  was  taken  under  direct  control  of  the  crown.  Philos. 
and  Polit.  Hist,  of  the  Carolinas,  by  the  Abbe  Raynal;  Edinburgh  Transl.,  i,  p.  210. 


16  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

of  silk-mixed  fabrics  in  this  country.  "South  Carolina  hath  gained 
a  manufacture  of  linens  by  means  of  the  French  refugees,  and  in- 
vented a  new  kind  of  stuff  by  mixing  the  silk  it  produces  with  its 
wool."(tf)  At  about  the  same  period,  1093  to  1702,  a  vigorous  though 
restricted  attempt  at  silk  culture  was  made  by  Sir  Nathaniel  Johnson, 
and  the  locality  of  this  undertaking  bore  the  name  of  Silk  Hope  for 
more  than  a  century,  (b)  The  results  are  thus  summarized:  "  How- 
ever, Sir  Nathaniel  Johnson,  after  all  his  pains,  rather  showed  what 
might  have  been  done  toward  the  culture  of  silk  in  that  province, 
than  made  such  progress  in  it  as  to  rendei  the  commodity  of  national 
advantage."  (c)  There  was  no  slackening  of  demand  for  raw  silk 
in  the  mother  country;  the  .silk-throwing  mill  of  Sir  Thomas  Lombe 
was  started  at  Derby,  England,  in  1719.  (d}  A  writer  of  that  date 
states  the  whole  case  with  precision. 

Silk  is  a  Commodity  of  great  Use  in  England  for  many  Manufactures,  it  being 
imported  to  us  from  France,  Italy,  Sicily,  Turkey ,  and  the  East  Indies;  and  there 
is  no  Foreign  Commodity,  which  exhausts  mere  of  our  Treasure.  I  am  not  so  vain 
as  to  promise,  this  country  can  furnish  Great-Britain  with  so  much  Silk  as  is  therein 
manufactured,  which  would  amount  to  above  a  Million  Sterling  annually:  But  if 
this  Province  is  ever  settled  (it  abounding  in  most  Parts  with  Forests  of  Mulberry 
Trees  both  White  and  Red)  and  we  keep  a  good  Correspondence  with  the  Natives, 
which  is  both  our  Duty  and  Interest,  certainly  a  considerable  Quantity  of  Silk  may 
be  here*  produced.  It  hath  been  already  experimented,  in  South  Carolina,  by  Sir 
Nathaniel  Johnson  and  others,  which  would  have  return'd  to  great  Account,  but 
that  they  wanted  Hands,  Labourers  being  not  to  be  hir'd  but  at  vast  Charge.  Yet 
if  the  Natives  or  Negroes  were  employ'd  who  delight  in  such  easy  light  Labours, 
we  could  have  that  done  for  less  than  One  shilling,  which  costs  them  more  than  six. 
Now  I  appeal  to  all  good  Englishmen,  if  we  can  raise  only  a  Tenth  part  of  the  Silk 
expended  in  Great  Britain,  etc.,  and  perhaps  half  an  Age  hence  the  Fifth,  whether 
it  would  not  be  very  beneficial  to  our  Native  Country?  (e) 

The  foregoing  extract  seems  likely  to  be  of  interest  to  modern 
promoters  of  schemes  for  employing  Southern  negroes  in  silk 
raising,  since  the  suggestion  of  such  service  as  peculiarly  suitable 
for  the  colored  race  is  thus  antedated  more  than  150  years.  Joshua 
Gee,  an  eminent  English  publicist,  made  an  estimate  that  the  labor 
of  slaves  employed  in  raising  silk  would  produce  about  twice  as 
much  value  as  in  planting  sugar  or  tobacco.  (/)  Nor  is  the  list  of 

a  Raynal,  i,  p.  213. 

b  Ramsay's  Hist.  S.  C.,  ii,  p.  475. 

c  Hist.  Acct.  S.  C.  and  Ga.,  by  Dr.  Alex.  Hewatt,  i,  p.  157. 

d  20th  Congress,  1st  sess. ,  H.  R.  Doc.  158,  p.  13.  This  document  will  here- 
after be  cited  simply  as  the  "  Rush  Letter". 

e  A  Description  of  the  English  Province  of  South  Carolina,  by  Daniel  Coxe; 
London,  1722,  p.  ro. 

/  The  Trade  and  Navigation  of  Great  Britain.  London;  1738,  chap,  xxx,  p.  146. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  17 

possible  silk  culturists  ended  when  it  includes  planters,  Huguenots, 
Indians,  and  negroes.  Another  writer,  who  has  taken  great  pains 
with  calculations  of  profit,  urges  that  the  mother  country  should  send 
her  paupers  and  "small  offenders"  to  South  Carolina;  "it  must  be  a 
weak  Hand  indeed  that  cannot  earn  bread  where  Silkworms  and 
white  mulberry  trees  are  so  plenty."  (a)  The  argument  will  com- 
mend itself  to  the  managers  of  state  charities: 

Let  us  suppose  that  Twenty  Five  Thousand  of  the  most  helpless  People  in 
Great  Britain  were  settled  there  at  an  expense  of  half  a  Million  of  Money;  the  Easi- 
ness of  the  Labour  in  winding  off  the  Silk  and  tending  the  Silk  Worm  would  agree 
with  the  most  of  those  who  throughout  the  Kingdom  are  chargeable  to  the  Parishes. 
That  Labour  with  the  benefit  of  Land  stock'd  for  them  gratis,  would  well  subsist 
them,  and  save  our  Parishes  near  Two  Hundred  Thousand  Pounds  a  Year  directly 
in  their  annual  payments;  not  to  compute  (what)  would  also  be  saved  indirectly,  by 
the  Unwillingness  of  many  pretended  Invalids  to  go  the  Voyage,  who  would  then 
betake  themselves  to  industrious  Courses  to  gain  a  Livelyhood.  (b) 

There  was  a  general  belief  that  England  lost  money  by  the 
sums  paid  to  foreigners  for  the  raw  material  from  which  goods  were 
made.  This  notion  appears  prominently  in  writings  upon  economi- 
cal subjects  throughout  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries. 
It  began  with  the  birth  of  English  textile  manufacture,  and  lasted 
till  the  use  of  the  steam  engine  altered  the  conditions  and  problems 
of  industry.  Silk  had  to  bear  the  brunt  of  this  obloquy. 

As  this  Nation  very  much  inclines  to  the  Wearing  Silk  Garments  in  imitation 
of  the  French,  to  the  great  Discouragement  of  our  Woolen  Manufacture,  the  Manu- 
facture of  Silk  from  our  Plantations  would  not  only  enable  us  to  supply  ourselves, 
but  to  be  capable  of  Exporting  very  great  Quantities  of  Silk  fully  Manufactured,  (c) 
In  fact,  however,  the  silk  industry  of  the  mother  country  had 
made  some  notable  advances.  English  manufacturers,  who  had  long 
been  dependent  upon  Italy  for  thrown  silk,  were  now  making  their 
own  tram  and  organzine.  The  machinery  in  general  use  was,  indeed, 
such  as  is  driven  by  the  hand  or  foot  of  the  operative;  but  there  was 
one  great  exception,  a  power-driven  machine  in  the  factory  of  Sir 
Thomas  Lombe.  The  importance  of  this  invention  seems  to  have" 
been  fairly  recognized. 

As  we  have  but  one  Water  engine  for  throwing  silk  in  the  Kingdom,  if  that 
should-be  destroyed  by  Fire  or  any  other  Accident,  it  would  make  the  Continuance 
of  throwing  fine  Silk  among  us  very  precarious;  and  it  is  very  much  to  be  doubted 
whether  all  the  Men  now  living  in  the  Kingdom  could  make  such  another.^/) 

a  A  New  and  Accurate  Account  of  the  Provinces  of  South  Carolina  and 
Georgia;  London,  1732,  chap,  v.,  p.  55. 

b  Ibid.,  chap,  iv.,  p.  51. 

c  Gee's  Trade  and  Navigation,  chap.  xxx. 

d  Ibid.  "This  amazingly  grand  machine  contains  26,586  wheels  and  Q7.746 
movements,  which  work  73,726  yards  of  orgari/.ine  silk  thread  every  time  the  water- 
wheel  goes  round,  being  thrice  in  one  minute,  and  3 1 8, 504. 960 'yards  in  one  day 
and  night  "  The  buildings  occupied  by  the  machinery  were  an  eighth  of  a  mile  in 
tength.  Anderson,  Origin  of  Commerce,  ii,  p.  284. 


18  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Far  more  anxiety  for  silk  culture  in  the  colonies  was  displayed 
in  England  than  in  America.  The  planters  did  not  take  serious 
interest  in  the  business.  A  colony  of  Swiss  who  settled  in  South 
Carolina  about  1733-'35  (a)  under  the  leadership  of  John  Peter 
Purry,,  of  Neufchatel,  was  successful  in  raising  silk  and  cotton,  and 
was  credited  with  some  progress  in  manufacture.  The  mulberry 
tree  flourished  in  the  light  and  sandy  soil  of  the  pine  lands,  (fr)  The 
excellent  quality  of  South  Carolina  silk  was  certified  by  Sir  Thomas 
Lombe,  who  considered  it  equal  in  streng:h  and  beauty  to  that  of 
Italy.  (<;)  But  as  to  amount  produced,  the  following  figures  speak 
for  themselves: 

Raw  silk  exported  from  North   and  South    Carolina    to    Great 

Britain  betwten   1731  and  1755    GO 

rounds. 
1731  to  1741  .......................................... 

1742  .......................................  .......... 

1743-1747  ............................................ 


1748  (8  boxes) 


52 

46 

1750 nS 

1751  and  1752 — 

1753 II 

1754 •_ 

1755 ' 5] 

Total  in  twenty-five  years 251 


In  the  last  named  year  Mrs.  Pinckney,  who  is  also  famous  as 
the  introducer  of  the  indigo  plant  into  South  Carolina,  took  with 
her  to  England  some  silk  which  she  had  raised  and  spun  near  Charles- 
ton; three  complete  dresses  were  made  therefrom;  one  was  pre- 
sented to  the  princess  dowager  of  Wales,  one  to  Lord  Chesterfield, 
and  one  remained  an  elegant  heirloom  in  possession  of  the  family 
for  more  than  fifty  years.  (<?)  (During  the  Revolutionary  War  the 
Pinckneys  won  renown  which  outshone  that  of  the  arts  of  peace.) 
It  is  said  that  630  pounds  of  silk  were  raised  in  17G5  at  Silk  Hope 
plantation.  Perhaps  South  Carolina  did  not  get  full  credit  for  her 
silk  product,  as  much  of  it  went  to  Georgia  to  be  reeled,  resulting 


a  Raynal,  vol.  i,  p.  223. 

b  Description  of  the  Province  of  South  Carolina,  by  George  Milligen,  London, 
1770,  p,  8. 

c  Letter  of  Thomas  Lombe  to  the  Trustees  of  Georgia,  January  31.  1732. 

d  A  Description  of  South  Carolina,  London,  1761,  p.  96  (authorship  somewhat 
uncertainly  ascribed  to  Governor  Glenn,  of  that  province). 

e  Ramsay,  i,  p.  221. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  19 

in  its  ultimate  shipment  from  Savannah.  There  is  some  curious 
evidence  of  popular  belief  or  rumor  to  this  effect,  which  will  be 
mentioned  hereafter.  Charleston  people  wanted  a  filature  in  their 
city  to  prevent  the  diversion  of  trade,  and  an  act  was  passed  to  meet 
the  wish,  in  17G6,  by  the  colonial  assembly.  This  was  followed  by 
a  grant  of  ^1,000  to  support  the  enterprise.  Meanwhile  the  London 
Society  of  Arts  was  giving  handsome  bounties  for  cocoons  and  raw 
silk,  and  kept  up  the  offer  till  1772;  Parliament  in  17G9  granted  a 
bounty  of  25  per  cent,  for  seven  years  on  all  raw  silk  imported  from 
the  colonies,,  (a)  But  the  Revolutionary  War  put  a  stop  to  the 
bounties  and  the  silk  industry  of  South  Carolina  ceased  to  exist. 
The  Abbe  Raynal  has  pronounced  its  funeral  oration.  That  philo- 
sophical writer  of  course  offers  a  theory;  silk  was  not  exported  be- 
cause negresses  were  not  imported.  He  concludes: 

Yet  the  progress  of  this  branch  of  trade  has  not  been  answerable  to  so  promis- 
ing a  beginning.  The  blame  has  been  laid  on  the  inhabitants  of  the  colony,  who, 
buying  only  negro  men  from  whom  they  receive  an  immediate  and  certain  profit, 
neglected  to  have  women  who,  with  their  children,  might  have  been  employed  in 
bringing  up  silkworms,  an  occupation  suitable  to  the  weakness  of  that  sex  and  to 
the  tenderest  age.(^) 

Tracing  the  silk  industry  in  the  order  of  its  starting  at  different 
points  in  this  country,  we  find  it  introduced  into  Louisiana  next 
after  South  Carolina.  In  1716  the  notorious  John  Law  formed,  at 
Paris,  the  Mississippi  Company,  which  was  a  leading  feature  in  a 
series  of  speculative  schemes  that  were  afterward  called  the  great 
South  Sea  bubble.  Louisiana  had  been  settled  by  the  French.  The 
city  of  New  Orleans  was  founded  in  1718,  and  about  that  time  the 
whole  colony  was  transferred  to  the  Mississippi  Company  by  a  grant 
of  the  French  crown.  Law  organized  and  sent  out  a  large  expedi- 
tion in  1718.  In  the  glittering  prospectus  (c)  of  this  speculation, 
one  of  the  items  was  the  culture  of  silk  on  the  banks  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  this  part  of  the  programme  was  in  a  measure  carried  out. 

a  Raynal,  ii,  p.  160. 
b  Ibid.,  ii,  p.  159. 

c  Anderson  gives  a  long  abstract  of  the  projects  of  the  South  Sea  Company. 
Under  one  section  there  are  the  following  details. 
"For  the  Silk  and  Cotton  manufactures,  viz: 

1.  For  the  raising  of  Silk-worms. 

2.  Another  for  the  planting  of  Mulberry  Trees  and  breeding  of  Silk- worms  in  Chelsea 
Park  where  2,000  of  those  trees  were  actually  planted  and  man}  large  and  expensive  edifices 
were  erected;  the  remains  whereof  are  now  (17C4)  scarcely  to  be  seen.     (Particulars  about  these 
trees  and  their  estimated  value  as  assets  of  a  stock  company  can  be  found  in  Barham's  Essay, 
pp.  9',   105,  and  278.    It  was  expected  that  they  would  produce  14.000  pounds  of  silk,  worth 
£14,OCO,  per  year.) 

3.  For  making  of  Muslin. 

4.  For  improving  the  Cotton  and  the  Silk  and  Cotton  Manufacture-. 

5.  Another  for  improving  the  Silk  Manufactures."     Origin  of  Commerce,  ii.  i>.  •.".':>. 


20  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Many  mulberry  trees  were  planted  in  and  near  New  Orleans.  Fail- 
ure to  reach  profitable  results  seems,  however,  to  have  overtaken 
every  branch  of  Law's  schemes.  "The  Ancient  India  Company 
never  sent  more  than  a  few  ship  loads  of  its  products  to  France,  and 
the  unfortunate  Mississippi  colony  furnished  next  to  nothing."  (a) 
After  the  South  Sea  bubble  burst,  the  ownership  of  the  land  and  the 
control  of  the  colony  reverted  to  the  crown.  The  French  held 
possession  till  17G2,  when  they  ceded  it  to  Spain.  We  do  not  read 
of  any  considerable  silk  product  Favorable  soil  and  climate,  and  a 
knowledge  of  the  business  on  the  part  of  the  colonists,  were  not 
wanting;  but  legislative  bounties  were. 

Georgia,  which  had  been  part  of  the  "fertile  Carolinas,"  was 
made  by  royal  charter  a  separate  province. in  1732,  and  placed  in 
control  of  a  board  of  trustees.  This  event  became  the  occasion  of  an 
urgent  pressure  in  favor  of  silk  culture.  The  trustees  themselves 
heartily  favored  the  project,  and  fixed  upon  silk  and  wine  as  the 
leading  staples  to  be  raised  for  export,  (//)  silk  being  chief  in  their 
esteem. (r)  Sir  Thomas  Lombe  wrote  a  forcible  letter  on  the  subject 
to  the  trustees,  declaring  that  silk  culture  "  appears  to  me  as  benefi- 
cial to  the  kingdom,  attended  with  as  little  hazard  or  difficulty,  as 
much  wanted,  and  which  may  as  soon  be  brought  to  perfection  in  a 
proper  climate,  as  any  undertaking  so  considerable  in  itself  that  I  ever 
heard  of."  (d)  The  trustees  at  their  meeting  in  June,  1732,  adopted 
a  rule  requiring  settlers  to  plant  a  certain  proportion  of  mulberry 
trees.  In  their  respective  grants  reu  years  were  allowed  for  the 
cultivation  of  the  soil,  and  100  white  mulberry  trees  were  to  be  plant- 
ed on  every  ten  acres  when  cleared.  Power  was  vested  in  the  trus- 
tees to  enter  upon  lands  that  remained  uncultivated. (e)  A  colonial 
seal  was  ordered,  containing  on  one  side  a  representation  of  silk- 
worms, some  beginning  and  others  having  finished  their  webs,  with 
the  motto:  Non  sibi sed aliis .  Tins,  says  one  historian,  was  "a  very 
proper  emblem,  signifying  that  neither  the  first  trustees  nor  their  suc- 
cessors could  have  any  views  to  their  own  interest."  (f)  It  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  meant,  by  the  use  of  this  motto,  to  suggest  that 

a  The  Eighteenth  Century,  by  Paul  Lecroix;  London,  1876,  p.  222. 

b  Judge  Law's  Oration,  Georgia  Historical  Society  Collections,  i,  p.  26. 

c  An  Impartial  Inquiry  into  the  State  and  Utility  of  the  Province  of  Georgia, 
by  Benj.  Martin,  secretary  of  the  trustees  of  the  colony;  London,  1741,  reprint  Ga. 
Hist.  Soc.,  i,  p.  1 60. 

d  Appendix,  Ga.  Hist.  ^'oc.  Collns.,  ii,  p.  311. 

e  History  of  Georgia,  by  Thomas  McCall,  i,  p.  21. 

/  Ilewatt's  Hist.  S.  C.  and  Ga.,  ii,  p.  18.      McCall's  History,  i,  p    25. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  JN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  21 

the  colonists,  in  raising  silk  for  British  manufacturers,  were  laboring 
not  for  themselves  but  for  others. 

Late  in  1732  a  man  from  Piedmont  was  sent  out  by  the  trustees 
to  teach  the  colonists  the  art  of  reeling.  Several  public  writers  urged 
the  enterprise  on  various  grounds  of  economy  and  profit.  An  esti- 
mate in  1733  (based  on  the  assumption  that  the  yearly  import  of  raw 
silk  by  Great  Britain  from  Piedmont  amounted  to  ^3uO,000  in  value) 
set  forth  that  the  successiul  raising  of  silk  in  Georgia  would  save  the 
mother  country  ^£100, 000  per  annum,  (a)  Another  estimate  in  the 
same  year  made  the  annual  import  by  Great  Britain  of  thrown  silk 
alone— excluding  raw  silk — 300,000  pounds,  equal  to  ^300,000  in 
value. ((5)  It  was  th-.-refure  an  occasion  of  much  congratulation  in 
1734-'35  when  General  Oglethorpe  took  with  him  to  England  eight 
pounds  of  colonial  silk,  and  showed  it  to  the  trustees,  who  presented 
it  to  Queen  Caroline.  Under  royal  instructions  Sir  Thomas  Lombe 
took  charge  of  the  precious  consignment,  and  had  it  thrown  and 
woven  at  his  factory;  so  that  in  1735,  upon  the  king's  birthday,  the 
queen  honored  the  colony  by  appearing  at  a  levee  in  a  dress  said  to 
be  entirely  made  of  Georgia  silk.(<r)  But  even  this  neat  little  episode 
has  suffered  by  the  breath  of  detraction.  A  certain  Dr.  Patrick 
Tailfer  and  others,  who  perhaps  bore  no  good  will  to  General  Ogle- 
thorpe, have  stated  in  a  spiteful  way,  that  most,  if  not  all  of  this  silk, 
was  raised  in  South  Carolina.  (*/) 

In  1735  a  plot  of  ground  was  laid  out  at  one  end  of  the  town  of 
Savannah,  and  was  planted  with  vines  and  mulberry  trees  at  public 
expense.  The  "trustees'  garden",  as  the  plot  was  termed,  proved  to 
have  been  ill-located,  the  soil  being  sandy  and  arid;  though  on  this 
and  similar  points  authorities  vary.  It  is  certain  that  the  trustees 
requested  the  selection  of  some  other  spot  of  ground,  but  their  wishes 
were  not  fulfilled. (e)  The  site  was  on  the  bank  of  the  river  within 
view  of  the  ocean.  Plants  and  trees,  native  and  foreign,  in  great 
variety,  including  the  fig,  orange,  pomegranate,  olive,  coffee,  cocoa, 
and  cotton,  were  set  out;  but  chief  attention  was  given  to  the  mul- 
berry. Every  planter  wanting  mulberry  trees  was  supplied  with  them, 

a  A  New  and  Accurate  Account  of  the  Provinces  of  So.  Ca.  and  Ga. ;  chap,  v, 
pp.  58,  60. 

b  Reasons  for  Establishing  the  Colony  of  Georgia;  London,  1733,  reprint  Ga. 
Hist.  Soc.,  i,  p.  208. 

C  The  Dead  Towns  of  Georgia,  by  Charles  C.  Jones;  Savannah,  1878,  p.  26. 

d  \  True  and  Historical  Narrative  of  the  Colony  of  Georgia;  Charleston,  1741, 
reprint  Ga.  Hist.  Soc. ,  ii,  p.  205. 

e  McCall,  i,  pp.  55,  57. 


22  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

gratis,  from  this  nursery.  The  promise  to  supply  these  trees  was  a 
feature  and  condition  of  the  land-grants  to  colonists. (a)  One  writer 
describing  the  garden  in  glowing  terms  of  praise,  declares  the  soil 
excellent  and  the  situation  "delightful."^)  Others  hold  a  totally 
opposite  opinion  and  say  that  the  place  was  "one  of  the  most  barren 
spots  of  land  in  the  colony,  being  only  a  hill  of  dry  sand;  great  sums  of 
money  were  thrown  away  upon  it  from  year  to  year  to  no  purpose. "(V) 

Several  Italians  of  both  sexes  were  brought  in  1736  at  the  trus- 
tees' expense  from  Piedmont  in  charge  of  a  Mr.  Amatis.  The 
foreigners  \vere  proficient  in  the  arts  of  silk  culture  and  reeling;  the 
men  were  ordered  to  teach  male  English  colonists  to  raise  mulberry 
trees,  the  women  to  take  English  girls  as  apprentices  in  rearing  worms 
and  reeling  from  cocoons. ( d)  "In  Italy  and  in  the  south  of  France, 
young  girls  carry  the  eggs  in  their  bosom,  and  hatch  them  by  their 
natural  heat.  In  other  countries  this  is  done  by  means  of  manure 
or  hot-houses.  "(<?)  It  is  not  specified  which  of  these  processes  was 
taught  to  the  English  girls.  Some  of  the  Italians  behaved  badly; 
one  of  them  stole  the  reels,  broke  the  copper  pans,(/)  spoiled  all  the 
eggs  he  could  not  steal,  and  fled  to  South  Carolina;  but  a  little  seed 
and  a  few  faithful  Piedmontese  were  left.(^) 

Meanwhile  a  number  of  Protestants,  driven  out  of  their  home  in 
the  valley  of  the  Salza,  Bavaria,  had  emigrated  to  Georgia  and  found- 
ed a  town,  which  they  called  Ebenezer,  about  25  miles  above  Savan- 
nah, near  to,  but  not  quite  on  the  river.(/$)  They  brought  with  them 
several  useful  arts,  and  soon  accomplished  more  in  the  business  of 
raising  silk,  with  far  less  fuss,  than  their  neighbors  at  Savannah. 
They  co-operated  with  the  trustees,  and  before  long  had  two  reels 

a  McCall,  i,  p.  63. 

b  A  Voyage  to  Georgia,  by  Francis  Moore;  London,  1744,  pp.  29,  30. 

c  A  True  and  Historical  Narrative;  reprint  Ga.  Hist.  Soc.,  ii,  p.  205. 

d  A  Voyage  to  Georgia,  p.  31. 

e  Treatise  on  Rearing  Silk  Worms,  by  Count  Von  Hazzi,  of  Munich;  Transl. 
U.  S.  20th  Cong.,  1st  Sess.,  H.  R.  Doc.  226;  sec.  61,  p.  77.  There  are  precise 
instructions  on  this  point  in  Noel  Chomel's  Dictionaire  CEconomique  (2  vol.  fol., 
Paris,  1718)  as  follows:  "In  order  to  hatch  the  eggs  at  their  proper  time,  the 
women  must  keep  them  in  their  bosoms  and  the  men  in  their  pockets,  and  on 
nights  between  warm  pillows  put  under  your  bolster  or  bed,  and  thus  to  continue 
for  three  days  without  looking  upon  them,  for  fear  lest  the  cold  air  injure  them." 
Barham's  Essay,  p.  118. 

f  The  pans  were  used  for  baking  the  cocoons,  to  kill  the  chrysalides. 

g  A  Voyage  to  Georgia,  p.  31. 

h  Raynal,  i,  p.  223.  McCall,  i,  p.  49.  The  Long  Island  Historical  Society 
of  Brooklyn,  N.  V.,  possesses  very  complete  records  of  this  emigration  and  set- 
tlement 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  23 

busy.  There  are  notices  at  this  period  of  a  scherhe  for  interesting 
the  Chickasaw  Indians  in  the  work  of  silk  culture. (<?)  English 
writers  were  again  urging  the  need  of  the  mother  country,  and  the 
annual  expenditure  for  silk  from  Piedmont  was  estimated  at  ;£oOO, 
OOO.(^)  Even  the  muse  was  invoked  to  stir  the  lagging  colonists, 
and  a  poem  on  the  return  of  General  Oglethorpe  to  Georgia  in  1736, 

winds  up — 

Nor  less  the  care 

Of  thy  young1  province  to  oblige  the  fair; 
Here  tend  the  silkworm  in  the  verdant  shade 
The  frugal  matron  and  the  blooming  maid.(c) 

But  as  to  the  export  of  raw  silk,  it  was  admitted  in  1740  that 
"  no  great  entries  have  been  seen  of  any  yet  in  the  custom-house  ;"(</) 
statements  verified  by  oath  declare  that  "the  quantity  of  silk  hitherto 
made  has  not  been  great;"(^)  the  small  portion  exported  i(  was  pro- 
duced by  an  Italian  family  settled  in  Savannah."(/)  Another  in- 
formant sums  up  the  situation  with  the  remark,  "  there  are  not  as 
many  mulberry  trees  in  the  whole  province  as  many  a  one  of  the 
Carolina  planters  have,  nor  so  much  silk  as  many  a  one  of  them 
makes. "(g)  In  fact,  the  colony  of  Georgia  was  at  this  time  in  a  very 
weak  and  impoverished  condition,  and  scarcely  able  to  produce 
enough  of  the  necessaries  of  life  for  its  own  sustenance.  Despite 
the  poverty  of  the  province,  the  trustees  firmly  adhered  to  the  line  of 
policy  they  had  marked  out:  wine  and  silk  were  to  be  cultivated  in 
preference  to  all  other  staples,  (h)  "  The  tracts  of  land  which  had 
been  planted  with  mulberry  trees  scarcely  retained  the  vestiges 
of  cultivation"  in  1744,  but  new  bounties  were  offered  for  silk;  a 
filature  was  built  at  Savannah,  and  the  implements  for  reeling  were 
ordered  to  be  furnished. (/)  The  premiums  were  afterward  fixed  at 
two  shillings  per  pound  for  first  quality  of  cocoons,  one  shilling  for 
second,  and  eight  pence  for  third. (/)  Bounties  were  also  offered  in 
1749  for  proficiency  in  the  art  of  reeling,  and  the  trustees  supplied 

a  Letter  to  the  Trustees;  Ga.  Hist.  Soc.  Collns.,  i,  p.  193. 

b  Life  of  Oglethorpe,  by  Thomas  Spalding;  Ga.  Hist.  Soc.  Collns.,  i,  p.  259. 

c  A  True  and  Historical  Narrative,  Preface;  reprint,  ibid.,  ii,  p.  175.  See 
also  Lines  addressed  to  Oglethorpe,  ibid. ,  ii,  pp.  64,  66. 

d  An  Impartial  Inquiry,  etc.,  reprinf  ibid.,  \,  p.  160. 

e  A  State  of  the  Province  of  Georgia,  Attested  upon  Oath;  London,  1742; 
reprint,  ibid.,  ii,  p.  71. 

f  An  Impartial  Inquiry,  etc. ;  reprint,  ibid.,  i,  p.  192. 

g  A  True  and  Historical  Narrative;  reprint,  ibid.,ii,  p.  265 

h  McCall,  i,  p.  199. 

*  Ibid.,  i,  p.  203. 

j  Ibid.,  i,  p.  238. 


24  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

the  requisite  apparatus  to  competitors.  In  the  following  year  four- 
teen young  women  claimed  the  bounty  and  were  given  permanent 
employment  at  the  filature,  which  by  this  time  had  an  outfit  of  tools 
and  implements.  Special  commissioners  were  sent  to  the  province 
by  the  trustees,  charged  with  the  duty  of  promoting  the  industry. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  period  when  silk  culture  in  the 
colonies  attained  its  highest  development.  An  exaggerated  notion 
of  the  results  has  been  formed  by  several  of  the  writers  who  have 
recorded  them.  This  is  chiefly  due  to  neglect  in  discriminating  be- 
tween cocoons  and  raw  silk.  The  records  from  1757  to  1768,  are 
mostly  of  the  production  of  cocoons;  and  of  these  articles,  when 
fresh  or  not  specially  dried,  ten  or  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  are 
required  to  furnish  one  pound  of  reeled  or  raw  silk  (a.)  The  fol- 
lowing statements  of  Georgia  production  are  believed  to  be 
authentic  : 

Years.  Product  or  Export. 

1750 6,300  pounds  cocoons  received  at  filature. 

1750  to  1754,  inclusive.  ..Value  of  raw  silk  exported,  $8,800. 

1756 Amount  of  raw  silk  exported,  268  pounds. 

1757 1,052  pounds  cocoons  received  at  filature. 

1758 7.040  pounds  cocoons  received  at  filature. 

1759 Considerably  over  10,000  pounds  cocoons  received  at  Savannah. 

1764. 15,200  pounds  cocoons  produced. 

1766 20,000  pounds  cocoons  produced. 

1768 1,084  pounds  raw  silk  sent  to  England. 

1758  to  1768,  inclusive.  ..Nearly  100,000  pounds  cocoons  received  at  filature. 

1770 291  pounds  raw  silk  produced  at  Ebenezer;  none  elsewhere. 

1771  (£) 438  pounds  raw  silk  produced  at  Ebenezer;  shipped  to  England. 

1772 . .  .485  pounds  raw  silk  produced  at  Ebenezer;  shipped  to  England. 

1755  to  1772,  inclusive. . .Amount  of  raw  silk  exported,  8,829  pounds. 

A  careful  examination  of  the  foregoing  figures  will  show  that 
they  do  not  involve  any  contradiction  in  themselves.  They  indicate 
a  varying  product  which  culminated  in  1766,  furnishing  from  1750  to 
1772  an  export  averaging  500  pounds  of  raw  silk  per  annum,  and 
rarely  exceeding  1,000  pounds  in  a  single  year.  It  remains  to  be  ex- 
plained why  an  assertion  has  so  frequently  found  place  and  comment 
in  histories  and  essays,  that  in  the  year  1759,  10,000  pounds  of  raw 
silk  were  exported  from  Georgia  to  England.  The  discrepancy  be- 

a  E.g.,  the  Bulletin  des  Soies  et  des  Soieries,  speaking  of  a  recent  crop  of 
Upper  Italy,  says:  "34  millions  de  kilog.  de  cocons  repre'sentant  environ  2,400,000 
kil.  de  soie. " 

b  Operations  at  the  filature  were  discontinued  in  1771,  and  the  basins  and 
reels  which  had  been  in  use  there,  were  distributed  among  the  colonists  of  Ebenezer. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  25 

tween  this  statement  and  that  of  the  total  export  from  1755  to  1772 
(which  was  furnished  by  the  collector  of  customs  at  Savannah);  has 
been  noticed  by  some  of  the  more  careful  writers;  others  have  ig- 
nored it;  none  have  traced  the  error  to  its  origin.  It  arose  in  an  am- 
biguous, not  to  say  erroneous,  publication  from  Charleston,  South 
Carolina,  which  Adam  Anderson  has  fortunately  quoted  in  full.  He 


We  had  public  Advices,  in  this  year  1759  from  Charles-Town  in  South 
Carolina,  of  a  very  hopeful  Prospect  in  that  Province  of  the  gradual  and  consider- 
able Progress  and  Increase  of  the  Production  of  Raw-Silk  there  and  in  the  adjoin- 
ing Province  of  Georgia,  viz:  "In  the  year  1757,  1,052  Pound  weight  of  ^Raw-Silk 
Balls  were  received  at  the  Filature  in  Georgia:  and  the  next  Year  produced  no  less 
than  7,040  Pound  Weight  thereof.  And  that  in  this  year  1759,  there  has  been  re- 
ceived at  Savannah,  the  Capital  of  Georgia,  considerably  above  10,000  Pound 
Weight  of  Reno-Silk^  although  the  Season  has  not  been  favourable.  This  great  In- 
crease of  that  rich,  new,  and  valuable  Production  in  these  Provinces  is  owing  to  the 
increased  Number  of  Hands  in  raising  the  same." 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  foregoing  treats  of  production,  not  of 
export;  and  therefore  presumptively  of  cocoons,  not  of  reeled  silk. 
At  all  events  the  facts  were  so  understood  by  the  Rev.  Jared  Eliot, 
of  Killingworth,  Connecticut  (grandson  of  John  Eliot,  the  "apostle 
of  the  North  American  Indians"),  writing  in  the  very  year  when  the 
advices  were  received.  His  version  is  as  follows  : 

By  a  late  account  from  Georgia  it  appears  that  the  Silk  Manufactory  is  in  a 
flourishing  way.  In  the  year  1757,  the  Weight  of  Silk  Balls  received  at  the  Filature 
was  only  1,052,  last  Year  produced  7,040,  and  this  Year  already  above  10,000,  and  it 
is  very  remarkable  that  the  Raw  Silk,  exported  from  Georgia  sells  at  London  from 
two  to  three  shillings  a  Pound  more,  than  that  from  any  other  Part  of  the  World. 

& 

This  seems  quite  correct,  except  in  calling  the  business  a  "  silk 
manufactory."  On  the  other  hand,  the  complete  error  appears  in, 
and  has  no  doubt  been  mostly  propagated  among  later  writers 
through,  the  account  given  in  1816  by  Major  McCall,  which  turns 
the  cocoons  into  raw  silk  and  the  production  into  export,  as  follows: 
In  the  year  1757,  one  thousand  and  fifty  pounds  of  raw  silk  were  received  at 
the  filature  in  Savannah.  In  1758,  the  silk-house  was  consumed  by  fire,  with  a 
quantity  of  silk  and  seven  thousand  and  forty  pounds  of  cocoons  or  silk  balls.  In 
1759  the  colony  exported  upward  of  ten  thousand  weight  of  raw  silk,  which  sold  two 
or  three  shillings  per  pound  higher  in  London,  than  that  of  any  other  country,  (c) 

Great  as  was  the  mistake  which  ascribed  to  one  year  as  large  an 

a  Origin  of  Commerce;  fol.  ed.,  ii,  p.  413. 

b  Essays  upon  Field  Husbandry  in  New  England;  Boston,  reprint,  1760, 
note  to  sixth  essay,  p.  154.  The  sixth  essay  was  first  published  in  1759,  printed  at 
New  London  and  New  York. 

C  History  of  Georgia,  i.  p.  251. 


26  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

export  as  was  reached  in  twenty,  it  was  surpassed  in  error  by  a  sub- 
sequent writer,  who  says: 

In  1776  more  than  twenty  thousand  pounds  of  raw  silk  were  imported  into 
England  from  Georgia,  (a) 

This  statement  was  probably  based  on  the  production  of  1766, 
and  though  brief,  had  the  misfortune  to  be  incorrect  in  every  par- 
ticular. 

The  policy  of  raising  silk  by  means  of  bounties  was  pushed  to 
its  extreme  in  1751,  when  the  trustees  of  Georgia  established  the  fol- 
lowing scale  of  premiums,  which  has  certainly  never  been  surpassed: 

For  first  quality  cocoons,  2s.  per  pound  ;  if  delivered  at  filature, 
3^.  6</. 

For  second  quality  cocoons,  Is.  3</.  per  pound  ;  if  delivered  at 
filature,  Is.  8dl 

For  third  quality  cocoons,  6</.  per  pound  ;  if  delivered  at  fila- 
ture, Is.  \d. 

This  was  at  least  two  or  three  times  what  the  cocoons  were 
worth,  and  is  "truly  astonishing."  (b)  The  patent  of  the  trustees 
expired  in  1752,  and  with  it  all  the  chartered  privileges  of  the  colony, 
which  then  became  a  royal  province  directly  dependent  upon  the 
crown  for  government,  (c)  Acts  of  parliament  of  almost  equal 
liberality  soon  replaced  the  measures  of  the  trustees  for  spurring  the 
silk  industry.  These  acts  were  various,  and  the  encouragement  they 
gave  was  fluctuating.  One  of  them,  in  1749,  admitted  raw  silk  from 
the  American  plantations  free  of  duty,  and  provided  that  Georgia 
and  South  Carolina  should  thereafter  "have  the  honor  of  being  de- 
nominated Silk  Colonies."  (d)  In  the  same  vein  of  sweetness,  George 
II,  June  21,  1754,  directed  a  silver  seal  to  be  made  for  Georgia,  bear- 
ing on  one  side  a  figure  representing  the  genius  of  the  colony  offering 
a  skein  of  silk  to  the  king,  with  the  motto  :  Hinc  laudem  sperate 
coloni.  (e)  For  a  while  the  parliamentary  bounties  were* three  shil- 
lings per  pound  ;  in  1766  they  were  reduced  one-half  ;  in  1769  they 

a  Manual  on  the  Mulberry  Tree  and  Silk  Culture,  by  Jonathan  H.  Cobb, 
4th  ed,  enlarged;  Boston,  1839,  app.,  p.  128.  One  step  in  this  second  series  of  er- 
rors appears  in  the  report  of  the  Committee  on  Agriculture,  United  States  House  of 
Representatives,  May  2,  1826,  which  says  :  "In  1766  more  than  20,000  pounds  of 
cocoons  were  exported  from  thence  to  England." 

b  History  of  Georgia,  by  Rev.  Wm.  Bacon  Stevens,  M.  D.;  New  York,  1847, 
vol.  i,  p.  275. 

c  Discourse  on  Georgia,  same  author;  Boston,  1841,  reprint  Ga.  Hist.  Soc., 
ii,  p.  25. 

d  Anderson,  Origin  of  Commerce,  fol.  ed.,  ii,  p.  392. 

e  Sbevens,  Hist.  Ga.,  i,  p.  383. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE    IN    THE  UNITED  STATES.  27 

were  applied  to  raw  silk  exported,  giving  £25  to  every  ^£100  in. 
value.  The  last-named  rate  was  to  continue  for  seven  years,  when 
it  was  to  be  reduced  to  20  per  cent.,  and  again  for  seven  years  more 
at  15  per  cent.,  (a)  the  political  occurrences  of  1776  being  evidently 
not  anticipated. 

The  silk  product  rose  while  the  bounties  for  delivery  at  Savannah 
were  most  liberal,  but  sank  with  marvelous  rapidity  shortly  after  their 
reduction,  falling  to  290  pounds  in  1770.  Throughout  the  entire 
period  of  silk  culture  in  Georgia  the  Saltzburghers  of  Ebenezer  were 
among  the  largest  producers,  and  were  almost  the  only  ones  in  the 
years  immediately  preceding  the  war  of  the  Revolution  who  prepared 
raw  silk  for  export.  During  the  war  the  French  settlers  at  New  Bor- 
deaux, 70  miles  above  Augusta,  are  said  to  have  supplied  "much  of 
the  high  country  "  with  sewing-silk  made  from  cocoons  of  their  own 
raising.  ( b )  The  industry  ceased,  however,  to  attract  attention ; 
the  last  parcel  of  raw  silk  offered  for  sale  in  Georgia  during  the  cen- 
tury being  in  the  year  1790,  when  over  two  hundred-weight  was  pur- 
chased for  export  at  prices  ranging  from  18  to  26  shillings  per 
pound.  (c\ 

Pennsylvania  was  blest  with  silk  culture  at  an  early  date  in  her 
history.  It  was  recommended  by  James  Logan  to  the  Penn  family 
in  1725,  as  "  extremely  beneficial  and  promising  ;"  the  next  year  he 
mentioned  that  silk  from  the  colony  had  been  sent  to  England;  he 
'*  is  glad  it  proves  so  good."  (d)  A  bill  had  been  introduced  in 
1719  into  parliament  to  restrain  the  increase  of  woolen  and  other 
manufactures  in  the  colonies,  (e)  A  more  definite  application  of 
the  non  sibi  sed  aliis  principle  was  urged  a  few  years  later,  based  on 
a  complaint  that  the  colonists  were  engaged  in  textile  manufacturing, 
especially  in  the  provinces  north  of  Virginia.  The  British  board  of 
commissioners  on  trade  and  plantations  made  an  elaborate  report  on 
this  subject  to  parliament  in  1732.  They  say  : 

It  were  to  be  wished  that  some  Expedient  might  be  fallen  upon  to  divert  their 
thoughts  from  Undertakings  of  this  Nature:  So  much  the  rather,  because  those 
Manufactures  In  Process  of  Time  may  be  carried  on  in  a  greater  Degree,  unless  an 
early  Stop  be  put  to  their  Progress,  by  employing  them  in  Naval  Stores.(f) 

a  Raynal,  ii,  p.  106. 

b  Letter  of  Thomas  McCall  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  in  answer  to  a 
circular  of  inquiry  sent  out  in  1826. 

C  Letter  of  Charles  Harris  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  in  answer  as 
above. 

d  Annals  of  Philadelphia,  by  John  F.  Watson;  Philadelphia,  1830,  p.  618. 

e  "Anderson's  Origin  of  Commerce,  ii,  p.  283. 

f  Ibid.,  ii,  p.  343. 


28  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

The  conclusion  arrived  at  is  as  follows  : 

We  would  humbly  bep-  Leave  to  report  and  submit  to  the  Wisdom  ol  this 
honourable  House,  the  Substance  of  what  we  formerly  proposed  in  our  Report 
on  the  Silk,  Linen  and  Woollen  Manufactures  hereinbefore  recited;  namely,  whether 
it  might  not  be  deemed  expedient  to  give  those  Colonies  proper  Encouragements  for 
turning  their  Industry  to  such  Manufactures  and  Products  as  might  be  of  Service  to 
Great  Britain,  and  more  particular!  to  the  Production  of  all  kinds  of  Naval 
Stores,  (a) 

Ultimately  it  seems  to  have  been  considered  that  the  encourage- 
ment of  silk  culture  was  one  of  the  "expedients"  for  preventing 
manufacture.  The  commissioners  addressed  a  letter  in  1734  to  the 
deputy  governor  of  Pennsylvania,  Patrick  Gordon,  asking  him  what 
encouragement  should  be  given  in  order  to  "engage  the  colonists  to 
apply  their  industry  to  the  cultivation  of  naval  stores  of  all  kinds, 
and  likewise  of  such  other  products  as  may  be  proper  for  the  soil  of 
the  said  colonies,  and  do  not  interfere  with  the  trade  or  produce  of 
Great  Britain."  (b)  To  this  Governor  Gordon  replies  that  it  was  the 
whole  study  of  the  merchants  how  to  make  returns  for  the  large  im- 
portations of  British  manufactures.  He  recommends  among  other 
things  that  the  culture  of  silk  be  encouraged,  and  mentions  that 
small  quantities  had  already  been  produced  in  the  colony,  equal  to 
the  best  European,  (c) 

A  London  paper  of  February  7,  1765,  states  chat  within  four 
days  one  hundred  journeymen  silk-throwsters  had  engaged  passage 
to  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  under  extraordinary  encouragements, 
intending  at  both  places  to  establish  the  manufacture  of  silk.  (  d) 
Perhaps  the  "encouragements"  arose  partly  ont  of  reports  concern- 
ing efforts  which  were  begun  about  this  time  by  Dr.  Benjamin 
Franklin.  Several  hundred  pounds  sterling  were  paid  to  American 
colonists  between  1755  and  1772,  for  premiums  on  silk  and  mul- 
berry trees,  by  the  London  Society  for  the  Encouragement  of  Arts, 
Manufactures,  and  Commerce.  A  pamphlet  published  by  the  society 
mentions  that  in  1761  the  following  corresponding  members  were 
authorized  to  pay  premiums  in  their  respective  colonies  :  Dr.  Jared 
Eliot,  the  Rev.  T  Clap  (president  of  Yale  College),  and  Jared  Inger- 
soll,  of  Connecticut  ;  Benjamin  Franklin,  LL.  D.,  and  John  Hughes, 
of  Pennsylvania  ;  George  Pollock,  Cullen  Pollock,  and  John  Ruther- 
ford, of  North  Carolina  ;  M.  Ortoleng:  (superintendent  of  the  filature 

a  Anderson's  Origin  of  Commerce,  ii,  p.  345. 
b  Archives  of  Pennsylvania,  year  1734,  p.  434. 
c  Hazard's  Register  of  Pennsylvania,  i,  p.  444. 

d  History  of  American  Manufactures,  by  Dr.  J.  L.  Bishop;  Philadelphia, 
1864,  i,  p.  362. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  29 

at  Savannah"),  of  Georgia.  The  bounties  paid  in  other  colonies  by 
the  society  were  probably  the  same  as  those  announced  at  that  date 
for  Georgia,  viz.,  for  first  quality  of  cocoons,  3</.  per  pound  ;  for 
second  quality,  2d,  and  for  third  quality,  Id.  per  pound,  (a)  About 
the  year  1766,  Dr.  Nathaniel  Aspinwall,  of  Mansfield,  Connecticut, 
who  had  a  nursery  of  white  mulberry  trees  on  Long  Island,  and  who 
was  a  person  of  large  public  spirit  and  enthusiasm  in  respect  to  silk 
culture,  gave  i  number  ot  such  trees  to  be  planted  near  Philadel- 
phia. (£)  An  act  giving  bounty  for  planting  the  tree  had  been  re- 
cently passed  by  the  legislature  of  New  Jersey,  and  considerable  in- 
terest was  manifested  in  the  subject  by  other  neighboring  colonies. 
The  American  Philosophical  Society  of  Philadelphia,  of  which  Dr. 
Franklin  was  a  leading  member,  gave  much  consideration  to  plans 
for  silk  culture  in  1768  and  1769.  Early  in  1770  Dr.  Franklin,  who 
was  then  in  London,  wrote  a  letter  to  the  society  urging  these  pro- 
jects and  enclosing  his  correspondence  with  Dr.  Cadwallader  Evans, 
of  Philadelphia,  upon  the  subject,  (c)  This  seems  to  have  deter- 
mined the  society's  course  ;  they  took  prompt  steps  for  establishing 
a  filature.  A  subscription  for  the  purpose  was  started,  and  during 
the  first  year  the  sum  of  ,£875  14.?.  was  obtained.  Measures  were 
taken  to  procure  supplies  of  mulberry  trees  and  silkworm  eggs,  and 
Dr.  Franklin,  who  was  always  ready  to  contribute  good  advice,  sent 
a  copy  of  a  useful  work  by  the  Abbe"  Sauvage.  (d)  An  application 
was  made  to  the  assembly  to  authorize  "  a  public  filature,"  the  man- 
agers to  have  power  to  grant  premiums  equal  to  about  ;£500  *ter 
annum  for  five  years.  The  filature  was  actually  opened  in  June, 
1770.  (  e  )  It  was  situated  in  Seventh  street,  between  Arch  and  High 
streets.  About  2,300  pounds  of  cocoons  were  brought  thither  in 

a  Treatise  on  the  Mulberry  and  Silkworm,  by  John  Clarke;  Philadelphia, 
1839,  note  top.  in.  The  Society's  premiums  for  planting  mulberry  trees  were 
very  liberal,  vid.  Tracts  on  Practical  Agriculture  and  Gardening,  by  R.  Weston; 
London,  1773,  pp.  31  to  34. 

b  Historical  Collections  of  Connecticut,  by  Dr.  J.  W.  Barber;  New  Haven, 
1837,  p.  550. 

c  Watson's  Annals,  p.  618. 

d  Memoires  sur  1' Education  des  Vers  a  Soie,  by  1'Abbe  Boissiere  de  Sauv- 
age; Nismes,  1763,  2  vols.,  8  vo.  Asummaryof  this  treatise  was  afterward,  I792(?) 
published  by  Mr.  Odell,  of  Burlington,  New  Jersey  (Cobb's  Silk  Manual,  p.  85). 
The  Boissiere  family  are  still  engaged  in  silk  culture  in  France.  Also,  Mr.  E.  V. 
Boissiere  is  now,  and  for  some  years  past  has  been,  carrying  on  this  business  in  con- 
nection with  his  silk  factory  at  Williamsburgh,  Franklin  county,  Kansas. 

e  J.  d'Homergue  says  the  filature  was  established  in  1769,  but  is  probably 
in  error. 


30  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

1771 ;  of  this  amount,  1,754:  pounds  were  bought  by  the  managers  ; 
two  thirds  of  the  cocoons  had  been  raised  in  New  Jersey,  (a)  There 
is  room  for  doubt  as  to  the  disposal  of  the  products.  It  is  more 
than  hinted  that  all  the  silk  made  was  absorbed  in  garments  for  mem- 
bers of  the  society.  (^)  J.  d'Homergue,  who  was  a  competent  wit- 
ness, though  perhaps  not  wholly  disinterested,  says  : 

I  have  not  heard  of  any  raw  silk  having  been  prepared  at  this  filature,  or  sold 
out  of  it,  yet  I  have  been  told  that  a  lady  of  this  city  (Philadelphia)  had  a  negligee- 
dress  manufactured  in  England  out  of  silk  of  her  own  raising,  (c) 

A  considerable  number  of  successful  attempts  at  silk  culture 
were  made  at  this  time  in  Pennsylvania,  several  of  which  have  passed 
into  history.  Susannah  Wright  of  Columbia,  Lancaster  county, 
a  Quaker  lady  of  some  literary  celebrity,  reeled  and  wove  from 
home  grown  cocoons  a  piece  of  mantua  60  yards  in  length.  A  dress 
was  made  from  this  fabric  for  Queen  Charlotte,  and  for  a  second 
time  the  wife  of  a  British  sovereign  honored  the  colonies  by  appear- 
ing at  court  in  American  silk.  It  is  further  recorded  that  Susannah 
Wright  had  1,500  worms  in  1772,  "  and  could  have  raised  large 
quantities  if  encouraged;"  (//)  she  also  made  sewing-silk.  Another 
Quaker  lady,  Grace  Fisher,  who  was  a  noted  preacher,  made  some 
silk  fabrics  which  were  presented  by  Governor  Dickinson  to  Mrs. 
Catharine  Macaulay,  the  historian.  There  are  several  instances 
about  this  time  of  Pennsylvania  ladies  raising  the  material  for  their 
own  clothing,  and  at  least  one  of  a  bride  thus  providing  her  own 
wedding  garment  ;  but,  it  is  significantly  added,  "  the  best  dresses 
worn  with  us  were  woven  in  England."  (e) 

This  was  the  era  of  the  dawn  of  independence.  Many  writers 
have  \amented  the  complete  interruption  which  the  Revolutionary 
War  caused  to  the  silk  enterprises.  In  fact,  however,  the  war  made 
the  real  industry  practicable.  Silk  culture  here,  to  supply  manu- 
facturers abroad,  was  precisely  the  reverse  of  a  profitable  arrange- 
ment for  this  country.  "  If  when  we  plough,  sow,  reap,  gather,  and 
thresh,  we  find  that  we  plough,  sow,  reap,  gather,  and  thresh  for 
others,  why  should  we  repeat  the  unprofitable  toil  ?"(/)  Legislation 
to  stop  manufacturing  in  America  was  now  the  order  of  the  day  in 

a  Watson's  Annals,  p.  618. 

b  Clarke's  Mulberry  and  Silkworm,  p.  115. 

c  Ibid.,  note  at  foot  of  page.  J.  d'Homergue  was  a  silk-culturist  from 
Nismes. 

d  Watson's  Annals,  p.  619.  e  Ibid. 

f  Letters  from  a  Farmer  in  Pennsylvania,  by  Mr.  Dickinson;  Boston,  1768; 
London  reprint,  1774;  Letter  xii,  p.  130. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  31 

England.     An  act  of  Parliament,  3  Geo.  II,  c.  29,  sec.  9,  passed  in 
1750,  provided  that — 

From  and  after  the  24th  day  of  June,  1750,  no  Mill  or  other  Engine  for 
slitting  or  rolling  of  bar  Iron ,  or  any  plaiting  Forge  to  work  with  a  Tilt-hammer,  or 
any  furnace  for  making  of  Steel  shall  be  erected  or  after  erection  continued  in  any 
of  His  Majesty's  colonies  in  America,  (a) 

Act.  14  Geo.  Ill,  c.  71,  was  passed  in  1774,  "  To  prevent  the  ex- 
portation to  foreign  parts  of  utensils  made  use  of  in  the  cotton,  linen, 
woollen,  and  silk  manufactures  of  this  kingdom."  The  statute  im- 
posed a  fine  of  ^£200  for  transgression;  such  machinery  could  be 
seized  and  confiscated,  its  holder  anywhere  was  liable  to  arrest,  and 
•even  the  ship  that  carried  it  and  the  owners  of  the  vessel  were 
reached  by  the  stringent  penalties  of  that  law.  ( b )  The  United 
Society  for  Promoting  American  Manufactures  (Philadelphia)  re- 
commended in  1776  an  appropriation  of  ^40  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  John  Marshall,  who  had  constructed  some  novel  machinery 
for  throwing  and  twisting  silk.  (c)  The  invention  was  at  once  too 
early  and  too  late.  The  arts  of  peace  were  suspended,  and  the 
people  were  preparing  for  war. 

Legislation  concerning  silk  culture  in  Connecticut  in  1732  indi- 
cated that  the  industry  had  made  some  progress  there,  even  at  that 
early  date.  The  first  coat  and  stockings  made  of  New  England  silk 
were  worn  by  Governor  Law  in  1747  ;  the  first  silk  dress  by  his 
•daughter,  in  1750.  (d)  Dr.  Ezra  Stiles,  president  of  Yale  college, 
"began  a  long  series  of  experiments  in  1758  by  planting  three  mul- 
"berry  trees.  His  carefully  kept  record  of  the  growth,  treatment, 
and  product  of  the  silkworms  fills  a  quarto  volume  of  manuscript 
still  preserved  by  the  college.  A  professor's  gown  was  made  from 
the  fruits  of  his  industry.  The  experiments  were  continued  till 
1790,  and  during  this  period  Dr.  Stiles  liberally  distributed  seeds, 
•eggs,  and  advice.  Nathaniel  Aspinwall,  who,  as  has  already  been 
mentioned,  had  a  nursery  of  mulberry  trees  on  Long  Island,  began 
about  the  year  1760  to  introduce  silk  culture  into  Wind  ham  county 
.and  other  localities  in  Connecticut.  He  was  successful  in  planting 
mulberry  orchards  at  New  Haven  and  Mansfield,  (e)  and  laid  the 
foundation  in  the  latter  town  of  an  industry  that  lasted  three-fourths 
•of  a  century,  and  paved  the  way  for  the  present  silk  manufacture  of 

a   Letters  from  a  Farmer,  p.  43. 

b  Force's  American  Archives;  4th  series,  vol.  i,  p.  222. 
c  Bishop,   Hist.  Mfrs.,  i,  p.  579. 
d  Ibid.,    i.  p.  360. 

e  Memorial  of  Sundry  Inhabitants  of  the  counties  of  Windham  and  Tolland; 
2Oth  Congress,  istsess.,  H.  R.  Doc.  159,  p.  4. 


32  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

this  country.  Half  an  ounce  of  mulberry  seed  was  sent  in  1766  to 
every  parish  in  Connecticut,  (a)  Several  dresses  were  made  from 
the  resulting  silk  shortly  before  the  Revolution;  the  town  of  Mans- 
field taking  the  lead  in  raising  the  raw  material.  William  Hanks  of 
that  town/ a  large  producer,  in  company  with  others,  projected  a  silk 
factory;  it  is  said  that  one  was  already  built  at  Lebanon.  The  out- 
break of  war  checked  these  undertakings. 

There  are  brief  records  of  silk  enterprises  in  other  northern- 
colonies  prior  to  1776,  but  they  are  generally  unimportant.  The 
most  promising  was  an  attempt  of  William  Molineaux  to  employ  the 
poor  of  Boston  in  spinning,  dyeing,  and  manufacturing  silk.  He 
claimed  that  he  had  expended  ,£1,200  to  £1,500,  chiefly  for  ma- 
chinery; and  he  undertook  to  buy  and  to  manufacture  all  the*silk 
raised  in  the  province.  (  b )  The  authorities  gave  him  in  1770  the 
use  of  a  factory,  rent  free,  to  carry  out  his  purpose.  It  is  probable 
that  he  undertook  to  make  sewing-silk  only,  the  experiments  in  weav- 
ing at  this  factory  being  confined  to  linen,  cotton,  and  worsted. 

Silk  history  in  this  country  is  almost  a  blank  during  the  struggle 
for  independence,  and  for  several  years  afterward  its  records  are 
very  faint. 

The  great  demand  and  high  price  of  breadstuffs,  owing  to  the  wars  growing 
out  of  the  French  revolution,  rendered  the  cultivation  of  grain  so  profitable  for  many 
years  that  the  mulberry  was  neglected.  (  c ) 

Subsequent  revivals  of  interest  in  culture  and  manufacture 
seemed  unimportant  at  the  outset.  But  small  as  were  these  begin- 
nings, they  proved  more  permanent  (because  they  obtained  a  home 
market)  than  all  the  carefully  nursed  silk  culture  for  export  which 
had  been  attempted  since  the  country  was  settled.  The  manufacture 
of  sewing-silk  gave  new  life  to  an  industry  that  had  sickened  and 
died  when  fed  on  royal  favor  and  parliamentary  bounty. 

It  may  here  be  mentioned,  however,  that  at  the  period  of  the 
Revolution,  and  for  at  least  fifty  years  afterward,  the  making  of  sew- 
ing-silk in  this  country  was  chiefly  a  household  art  rather  than  an 
organized  business  carried  on  in  a  mill  or  factory.  This  was  the 
bridge  between  the  silk  culture  of  the  colonizes  and  the  full-fledged 
manufacture  of  the  present  century:  a  bridge  of  essential  service, 
though  a  chasm  yawned  at  its  farther  end  where  many  fortunes  were 
engulfed.  Connecticut  became  the  chief  seat  of  this  new  industry, 

a  Barber,  Hist.  Coll.   Conn.,  p.  550. 
b  Bishop,  i,  pp.  362,   376. 

c  Report  of  the  Committee  on  Agriculture  to  the  U.   S.    House  of   Rens.^ 
May  '2,  1826.  Mass.  Agric.  Repository  and  Journal,  Vol.  ix,  No.  2;  Boston,  1826. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  33 

beginning  with  an  act  of  the  assembly  of  that  state  in  1783,  to  take 
effect  March  1,  1784.  (a)  The  passage  of  the  act  was  chiefly  due  to 
the  urgent  representations  of  Dr.  Stiles  and  Mr.  Aspinwall.  The 
premiums  thereby  authorized  were  ten  shillings  per  hundred  for 
planting  mulberry  trees  and  preserving  them  in  thrifty  condition  till 
three  years  old;  and  three  pence  per  pound  for  producing  "raw 
silk ",  which  was,  perhaps,  meant  to  apply  to  cocoons.  In  a  few 
years  the  bounty  for  planting  trees  served  its  purpose  throughout  the 
state,  and  was  then  discontinued,  but  the  premiums  for  silk  were 
kept  up  during  a  considerable  period.  In  1789,  200  pounds  of  silk 
were  raised  at  Mansfield;  in  1793,  362  pounds,  (b)  The  quantity 
steadily  increased,  and  the  value  of  sewing  and  raw  silk  made  in  the 
counties  of  New  London,  Windham,  and  Tolland,  in  1810,  aside 
from  consumption  of  refuse  silk  in  domestic  garments,  was  estimated 
by  Tench  Coxe  at  $28,503.  Careful  inquiries  in  the  year  1825  showed 
that  the  silk  product  of  Windham  county  was  then  double  that  of 
1810.  (c)  The  Hon.  Zalmon  Storrs,  of  Mansfield,  replied  to  the 
circular  of  inquiry  of  July,  1826,  that — 

Three-fourths  of  the  families  in  Mansfield  are  engaged  in  raising  silk,  and 
make,  annually,  from  5  to  10,  20,  and  50  pounds  in  a  family,  and  one  or  two  have 
made,  each,  100  pounds  in  a  season.  It  is  believed  there  are  annually  made  in 
Mansfield  and  its  vicinity  from  three  to  four  tons. 

The  last  statement  was  replaced  by  the  more  definite  figures  of 
7,000  pounds  in  1827.  (d) 

The  methods  of  reeling  from  the  cocoon  and  of  making  sewing- 
silk  were  of  the  most  primitive  kind,  (e)  The  writer  has  in  his  pos- 
session a  specimen  of  the  reeled  silk;  it  was  called  "tow",  and  it 
looks  like  that  material,  being  coarse,  of  irregular  thickness  of  fibre, 
and  wholly  wanting  in  luster.  By  a  laborious  hand-process,  this  was 
converted  into  sewing-silk  of  fair  quality;  but  only  half  the  amount 
in  weight  could  thus  be  successfully  manipulated;  the  rest  was  a 
knotted,  irregular  refuse,  barely  available  in  making  homespun  gar- 
ments. The  sewing-silk  or  "twist"  had  a  low  reputation  as  com- 
pared with  that  imported  from  Italy.  It  was  put  up  in  small  par- 
cels, called  "  sticks ",  containing  a  definite  number  of  yards. 
Twenty-five  skeins  were  tied  in  a  bunch,  and  four  bunches  were 

a  Holmes's  American  Annals;  Cambridge,  1805,  vol.  ii,  p.  470. 
b   Memorial  of  Windham  and  Tolland,  p.  4. 
c   Rush  Letter,  p.  18. 
d  Memor.  Windham  and  Tolland,  p.  5. 

e  A  full  account  of  these  processes  will  be  found  in  Cobb's  Manual,  pp. 
121-124. 


34  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

fastened  together;  this  gave  a  merchantable  package  of  100  skeins — 
a  unit  of  trade  that  was  used  in  barter  and  took  the  place  of  cur- 
rency. Very  little  money  was  used  at  that  time  in  the  state,  and  the 
sewing- silk  became  the  "  circulating  medium".  An  act  of  the  legis- 
lature defined  the  length  of  the  skein,  and  was  enforced  by  penalty, 
as  follows: 

Any  person  or  persons  who  shall  offer  for  sale  any  sewing-silk,  unless  each 
skein  consists  of  twenty  threads,  each  thread  of  the  length  of  two  yards,  shall  forfeit 
the  sum  of  seven  dollars  to  any  person  who  shall  prosecute  the  same  to  effect.  ( a  ) 

Naturally  enough,  when  the  medium  of  trade  had  thus  acquired 
an  artificial  value,  it  became  the  interest  of  each  producer  of  this 
currency  to  debase  it.  This  was  effected  in  two  ways:  by  making 
the  thread  as  fine  as  possible,  so  as  to  get  the  greatest  length  out  of 
a  given  weight  of  material,  and  by  putting  only  half  the  length  in  a 
skein  and  calling  it  a  "half-skein".  The  object  of  the  latter  de- 
vice was  to  give  an  opportunity,  as  the  silk  went  from  hand  to  hand, 
of  passing  half-skeins  as  whole  ones.  The  chance  of  this  immoral 
advantage  made  the  half-skeins  the  more  popular  currency.  (  b  )  An 
improvement  in  the  spinning  wheel  was  patented  in  the  year  1800 
by  Horace  Hanks;  it  was  known  as  the  "double  wheel-head  ".  This 
gave  the  spindle  an  increased  speed  of  145  turns  to  one  as  compared 
with  the  old-fashioned  machinery. 

Connecticut's  industry  at  the  close  of  the  last  century  included 
the  manufacture  of  "  some  silk  buttons,  handkerchiefs,  ribands,  and 
stuffs,"  but  of  a  much  less  value  than  the  sewing-silk.  In  1790  the 
manufacture  of  silk  laces  was  begun  at  Ipswich,  Massachusetts;  (c)  it 
lasted  for  many  years,  and  the  product  rose  to  41,979  yards  of  laces, 
edgings,  etc.  Silk  shoes  are  also  mentioned  as  an  item  of  some  im- 
portance among  the  early  manufactures  of  Massachusetts.  These 
branches  of  industry  were  gradually  supplanted  by  others.  The 
change  at  Ipswich  is  thus  described: 

The  machinery  which  once  turned  out  thread  and  silk  laces,  those  non-con- 
ducers  to  health  and  comfort,  is  now  profitably  employed  in  manufacturing  cotton 
and  other  useful  fabrics,  (d) 

The  making  of  fringes,  coach  laces,  and  tassels  at  Philadelphia, 
Pennsylvania,  began  in  the  year  1793.  It  was  expanded  in  1815  to 
include  silk  trimmings  of  various  kinds,  by  Wm.  H.  Horstmann.  (e) 

a  The  Silk  Industry  of  the  United  States  from  1766  to  1874,  by  A.  T.  Lilly; 
New  York,  1875,  p.  3. 

b  Ibid.,  p.  5.  c  Hayward's  Massachusetts  Gazetteer,  p.  179. 

d  Ibid. ;  the  date  of  this  remark  is  1847. 

e  American  Silk  Industry  Chronologically  Arranged,  by  Franklin  Allen, 
New  York,  1876,  p.  5. 


I 
SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  35 

There  is  a  record  of  fresh  exertions  by  Mr.  Aspinwall,  in  1790,  to 
extend  the  planting  of  the  mulberry  in  Pennsylvania,  New  York  and 
New  Jersey.  ( a  )  During  the  war  of  1812  Samuel  Chidsey,  of 
Scipio,  Cayuga  county,  New  York,  made  and  sold  600  pounds  of 
sewing-silk,  the  product  of  native  worms.  (  b) 

A  small  mill,  12  feet  square,  was  built  by  Rodney  and  Horatio 
Hanks,  in  1810,  at  Mansfield,  Connecticut,  to  manufacture  sewing- 
silk  by  water-power.  A  larger  attempt  of  the  same  kind  was  made 
by  the  same  persons,  associated  with  others,  at  Gurleyville,  Con- 
necticut, on  the  Fenton  river,  in  1814.  Neither  of  these  enterprises 
met  the  hopes  of  their  projectors;  but  in  1821  Rodney  Hanks  built 
another  mill  at  Mansfield,  which  was  kept  in  operation  for  seven 
years.  The  Mansfield  Silk  Company,  formed  in  1829  by  Alfred 
Lilly,  Joseph  Conant,  William  A.  Fisk,  William  Atwood,  Storrs 
Hovey,  and  Jesse  Bingham,  undertook  the  same  kind  of  business, 
with  far  better  though  not  complete  success;  their  throwing  machin- 
ery, devised  by  Edmund  Golding  from  plans  with  which  he  had  been 
familiar  in  England,  being  serviceable,  though  somewhat  crude. 

The  insuperable  difficulty  during  all  this  period  arose  from  the 
"bad  reeling  of  domestic  silk.  No  power-driven  machinery  that  has 
ever  been  devised  is  capable  of  making  a  good  uniform  thread  from 
such  reeled  silk  as  was  then  produced  in  the  households  of  New 
England,  although,  as  has  been  stated,  a  fair  sewing-silk  could  be 
extracted  from  it  by  hand-work,  with  great  loss  of  raw  material.  The 
bad  reeling  which  was  customary  seems  more  remarkable  since 
several  excellent  kinds  of  hand-reels,  with  a  traverse,  had  been  con- 
structed by  inventors  of  that  day.  Among  the  makers  or  describers 
of  improved  reels  may  be  mentioned  Jonathan  H.  Cobb,  Gideon  B. 
Smith,  J.  d'Homergue,  Jonathan  Dennis,  jr.,  Seth  W.  Cheney,  Eliph- 
alet  Snow,  and  Nathan  Rixford.  The  Mansfield  Silk  Company 
sought  to  avoid  this  difficulty  by  reeling  for  themselves,  with  a  power- 
driven  reel.  Success  attended  this  effort,  and  with  good  reeling  "the 
native  silk  was  found  to  be  of  superior  quality  and  strength,  winding 
and  doubling  with  greater  facility  and  less  waste  than  China  or 
Brussia  silk".  (  c  )  The  comparative  cost  is  not  stated. 

In  December,  1825,  the  subject  of  silk  culture  began  to  receive 
national  attention,  being  brought  before  Congress  by  a  resolution  of 
inquiry  introduced  by  Mr.  Miner,  of  Pennsylvania,  and  referred  to 

a,  Rush  letter,  p.  17. 

b   Ibid.,  p.  1 8. 

c    Lilly,  Silk  Industry,  p.  6. 


36  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

the  committee  on  agriculture.  During  the  following  spring  the 
committee  reported  favorably,  presenting,  among  other  arguments 
on  the  subject,  a  statement  that  the  value  of  silk  goods  imported  in 
1825  was  nearly  twice  as  great  as  the  export  of  breadstuffs.  The 
report  included  a  resolution  directing  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 
to  cause  to  be  prepared  a  well-digested  manual  on  the  growth  and 
manufacture  of  silk.  Inquiries  for  information  upon  the  subject 
were  sent  out  by  the  secretary,  Richard  Rush,  in  1826;  and  from 
the  replies  and  other  material,  a  manual  was  constructed,  entitled 
"  Letter  from  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,"  (a)  dated  February  7, 
1828.  Six  thousand  copies  were  printed  by  order  of  Congress.  This 
manual  became  known  as  the  "Rush  Letter";  it  contains  220  pages, 
beside  illustrations  of  machinery,  and  is  a  carefully  executed  work. 
Other  documents  relating  to  silk  culture  were  received  and  published 
by  Congress  at  this  time,  among  which  were  two  that  have  been  pre- 
viously referred  to,  viz,  "  Memorial  from  sundry  inhabitants  of  the 
counties  of  Windham  and  Tolland,  state  of  Connecticut,  praying  for 
the  aid  of  government  in  the  cultivation  of  the  mulberry  tree  and  of 
silk,"  and  an  elaborate  "Treatise  on  the  culture  of  silk  in  Germany, 
by  Count  von  Hazzi,  of  Munich  ''  ( #) 

A  report  presented  to  the  House  in  1830  by  the  committee  on 
agriculture,  included  two  interesting  letters  from  Peter  S.  Du  Pon- 
ceau, LL.  D.,  who  accompanied  Baron  Steuben  to  this  country  in 
1777,  and  afterward  rose  to  eminence  at  Philadelphia  in  public  affairs 
and  in  studies  of  philology  and  law.  Essays  on  American  silk  by 
John  d'Homergue  also  formed  part  of  the  report.  The  essays  and 
letters  contain  much  useful  information,  largely  drawn  from  the  ex- 
perience of  their  authors  in-  raising  silk.  The  report  proposed  a 
grant  to  M.  d'Homergue  of  $40,000  for  the  establishment  of  a  nor- 
mal school  of  filature  at  Philadelphia,  to  supply  gratuitous  instruc- 
tion to  60  young  men  for  two  years  in  the  details  of  reeling,  dyeing, 
and  manufacturing  silk.  M.  d'Homergue  was  to  be  authorized 
meantime  to  travel  through  the  different  states  and  teach  the  art  to 
farmers  and  others.  A  bill  containing  these  propositions  was  brought 
to  a  vote  in  1832  and  was  defeated  by  a  small  majority.  The  sub- 
ject was  again  referred  to  the  committee  on  agriculture,  which  in 
1835  made  an  adverse  report  on  constitutional  grounds.  In  the  fol- 
lowing year  the  matter  was  referred  to  the  committee  on  manufac- 
tures, which  reported  .in  1837;  this  report  contained  a  letter  from 

a  Doc.  158,  Twentieth  Congress,  first  session. 
b  Doc.  220,  idem. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  37 

Hon.  Andrew  T.  Judson,  of  Connecticut,  which  furnishes  more  de- 
finite statements  than  can  be  readily  found  elsewhere  as  to  the  spread 
of  silk  enterprises  at  this  period.  Finally  the  committee  on  agri- 
culture again  reported  April  20,  1838.  This  last  report,  which  was 
very  elaborate,  declared  that  the  "  silk  bill  "  was  defeated  because 
the  "  ingenuity  and  experience  of  our  countrymen  now  render  it  un- 
necessary, believing  as  they  do  that  the  recent  improvements  in  reel- 
ing will  do  more  in  a  few  weeks  than  the  establishment  of  many 
normal  schools  on  the  old  plan  will  do  in  many  years  ".  (a)  The 
committee  recommended  that  all  public  lands  in  the  United  States 
be  leased  gratuitously  wherever  the  cultivation  of  the  mulberry  and 
the  sugar-beet  was  undertaken  thereon.  . 

During  the  pendency  of  the  bill  in  1830  Mr.  Du  Ponceau  started 
a  small  filature  of  10  reels  and  20  operatives  on  his  own  account, 
under  M.  d'Homergue's  direction,  at  Philadelphia.  Among  the  first 
fruits  of  his  labor  were  two  flags  of  American  silk;  these  were  pre- 
sented respectively  to  the  legislature  of  Pennsylvania  and  to  the 
United  States  House  of  Representatives.  About  60  pounds  of  the 
silk  prepared  at  this  filature  was  submitted  to  different  manufac- 
turers, who  reported  upon  it  as  of  excellent  quality.  The  subject  of 
silk  culture  gained  the  public  ear,  and  the  legislatures  of  several 
states  passed  bills  for  the  encouragement  of  the  new  industry.  The 
tendency  during  the  years  immediately  preceding  1837  was  toward 
venturous  enterprises,  and  silk  culture  presented  an  attractive  field. 
A  peculiar  variety  of  the  mulberry  tree,  believed  to  possess  many  ad- 
vantages as  compared  with  the  white  mulberry,  was  brought  to  pub- 
lic notice,  and  a  speculation  was  started  of  such  rapid  and  extensive 
growth  that  in  a  few  years  it  overshadowed  all  silk  enterprises  and 
changed  the  whole  course  of  the  industry. 

Gideon  B.  Smith,  of  Baltimore,  claimed  to  have  owned  the  first 
Morus  multicaulis  tree  in  the  United  States;  it  was  planted  in  1826. (£) 
Dr.  Felix  Pascalis,  of  New  York,  (afterward  editor  of  a  publication 
called  The  Silk  Guitarist}  called  attention  to>the  supposed  merits  of 
this  plant  in  The  American  Journal  of  Science,  July,  1830,  and  des- 
cribed its  introduction  into  Europe  by  Samuel  Perrottet,  of  the  Lin- 
nsean  Society  of  Paris.  Dr.  Pascalis  predicted  that  by  its  culture 
two  crops  of  silk  could  be  raised  in  a  season;  the  prediction  was 
soon  afterward  verified.  The  tree  was  said  to  grow  with  marvelous 
rapidity,  developing  large,  thin,  tender,  and  succulent  leaves,  in  pro- 
fit Report  to  Twenty-fifth  Congress,  second  session. 
b  Clarke's  Mulberry  and  Silkworm,  p.  121. 


33  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

fusion.  It  could  be  propagated  easily  by  cuttings;  it  could  be  cul- 
tivated as  a  shrub;  its  leaves  formed  the  choicest  and  most  nutritious 
food  for  silkworms.  All  the  agricultural  literature  in  the  country  soon 
became  suffused  with  descriptions  of  this  wonderful  tree.  In  1831 
the  Massachusetts  legislature  ordered  the  preparation  of  a  manual  on 
silk  culture.  The  work  was  performed  by  Jonathan  H.  Cobb,  a  silk 
manufacturer  at  Dedham,  Massachusetts.  The  manual  was  printed 
in  the  same  year;  it  passed  through  at  least  four  editions,  and  spread 
the  merits  of  the  Morus  multicaulis  throughout  the  New  England 
states. 

The  following  bounties  were  authorized  by  legislatures  : 

Maine  :  5  cents  on  every  pound  of  cocoons  raised.  Connecti- 
cut, act  of  1832  :  $1  on  every  one  hundred  transplanted  mulberry 
trees  two  years  old;  50  cents  on  every  pound  of  silk  reeled  on  an 
improved  reel. 

Vermont,  act  of  1835:  10  cents  on  every  pound  of  cocoons 
raised. 

Massachusetts,  act  of  1836:  $1  on  every  ten  pounds  of  cocoons 
raised  in  the  state;  $1  for  every  pound  of  silk  reeled  and  thrown;  50 
cents  for  every  pound  of  silk  reeled  but  not  thrown. 

New  Jersey:  16  cents  per  pound  for  cocoons,  and  50  cents  per 
pound  for  reeled  silk. 

There  were  similar  acts  in  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Georgia, 
Indiana,  and  probably  in  other  states.  The  largest  quantity  of  coc- 
oons raised  by  any  one  claimant  for  bounty  in  Massachusetts  was 
615  pounds,  (a)  The  legislation  of  that  state  was  regarded  as  quite 
liberal,  (ft)  Beside  all  this,  there  were  premiums  paid  by  counties, 
by  fairs,  and  by  stock  companies  interested  in  silk  growing.  A  grant 
of  262  acres  of  land,  owned  by  the  United  States,  at  Greenbush, 
New  York,  was  made  to  G.  B.  Clark,  of  New  York  city,  on  condition 
that  he  should  plant  100,000  mulberry  trees,  and  provide  sufficient 
silkworms  to  consume  all  the  foliage  thereof.  Certainly  the  new 
business  did  not  lack  encouragement. 

A  national  silk  convention  was  held  at  Baltimore  in  December, 
1838;  a  silk  convention  in  New  Jersey,  February,  1839;  in  New 
York,  at  Albany,  February,  1839;  in  Connecticut,  April,  1839;  and 
there  were  many  other  gatherings  of  the  kind.  The  list  of  stock 
companies  formed  for  raising  and  manufacturing  silk  at  this  time  is 
very  long;  their  lives  were  very  short.  Many  of  them  were  slenderly 
equipped,  in  both  knowledge  and  resources.  Seven  are  named  in 

a  American  Silk  Grower,  p.  267. 
b  Cobb's  Manual,  p.  47. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  39, 

Massachusetts,  six  in  Pennsylvania,  nearly  as  many  in  neighboring 
states,  and  a  few  at  the  west.  A  United  States  Silk  Society  was  or- 
ganized at  the  national  convention.  The  number  of  private  indi- 
viduals engaged  in  silk  raising  cannot  be  estimated.  In  Burlington, 
New  Jersey,  says  a  writer  of  the  day,  "you  can  scarcely  go  into  a 
house  but  you  find  the  inmates  engaged  in  feeding  worms."  (a) 

The  literature  of  the  period  on  this  subject  was  abundant  and 
various.  In  the  following  list  the  titles  of  some  of  the  more  noted 
publications  are  presented: 

Authors — JAMES  MEASE,  M.  D.,  of  Philadelphia:  Letter  to  Secretary  Rush; 
U.  S.  Twentieth  Congress,  House  Doc.  158.  JOHN  CLARKE:  Treatise  on  the  Mul- 
berry and  Silkworm;  Philadelphia.  JONATHAN  H.  COBB:  Manual.  PETEK.  DELA- 
BIGARRE:  A  Treatise  on  Silkworms;  New  York.  PETER  S.  Du  PONCEAU  AND 
JOHN  D'HOMERGUE:  Philadelphia.  GIDEON  B.  SMITH  (Ed.  American  Farmer}: 
Manual;  Baltimore:  also  Ed.  Journal  of  the  American  Silk  Society  and  Rural 
Economist;  2  vols.,  Baltimore,  1840.  JONATHAN  DAVIS:  Manual.  WARD  CHENEY 
&  BROS.  :  American  Silk-Grower  and  Farmers'  Manual;  Philadelphia.  THOMAS 
G.  FESSENDEN:  The  Silk  Manual  and  Farmer  (monthly);  Boston.  S.  BLYDEN- 
BURGH:  The  Silkworm  (monthly);  Albany,  New  York.  FRANKLIN  G.  COMSTOCK: 
Practical  Treatise  on  the  Culture  of  Silk;  Hartford  1835  and  1839;  also,  Silk  Cul- 
turist;  Hartford.  E.  P.  ROBERTS  (Ed.  Farmer  and  Gardener):  Manual;  Balti- 
more. WM.  KENRICK:  American  Silk-Growers'  Guide.  DR.  FELIX  PASCALIS: 
Instructions  for  Silkworm  Nurseries,  and  Culture  of  the  M^dberry  Tree;  also, 
Silk  Culturist  (periodical);  New  York.  SAMUEL  WHITMARSH:  Eight  Years'  Ex- 
perience and  Observation  in  the  Cttlture  of  the  Mulberry  Tree  and  the  Care  of  the 
Silkworm;  Northampton,  Mass.  EDMUND  MORRIS:  The  Silk  Record  (periodical); 
Burlington,  N.  J.  JUDGE  BUELL:  The  Albany  Cultivator  (monthly);  Albany,  N. 
Y.  EDMUND  RUFFIN:  The  Farmers'  Register  (periodical);  Richmond,  Va.  AN- 
NUAL REPORTS  OF  THE  AMERICAN  INSTITUTE  (yearly);  New  York,  N.  Y.  GENERAL. 
HENRY  ALEX.  SCAMMEL  DEARBORN:  Internal  Improvements  and  Commerce  of  the 
West;  Boston,  1839.  JOHN  S.  SKINNER:  Christmas  Gift  to  Young  Agriculturists; 
Washington,  D.  G.,  1841. 

London  works  distributed  in  this  country. — SAMUEL  PULLEIN:  The  Culture 
of  Silk  for  the  American  Colonies,  and  the  Culture  of  Mulberry  Trees;  London, 
1758.  DR.  DIONYSIUS  LARDNER:  Treatise  on  the  Origin,  Improvements,  and 
Present  State  of  the  Silk  Manufacture;  London. 

Translations. — M.  MORIN:  Art  of  Raising  and  Feeding  Silkworms,  and  of 
Cultivating  the  Mulberry  Tree;  Boston,  1836.  JULIEN  STANISLAUS:  Resume"  des 
Principaux  Traites  Chinois  sur  la  Cultiire  des  Muriers  et  VEdtication  des  Vers  a- 
Soie;  Paris,  1838  (Translated  by  Peter  Force,  mayor  of  Washington,  D.  C.,  1838). 
DESLONGCHAMPS:  Essai  sur  des  Muriers  et  des  Vers  d  Soie;  Paris,  1824.  SIGNOR 
TENELLI  (Doctor  of  Civil  Law  in  the  University  of  Pavia):  Hints  on  the  Culti- 
vation of  the  Mulberry.  M.  BONAFOUX  (Director  of  the  Royal  Gardens  at  Turin): 
Essai  sur  des  Muriers,  etc.  COUNT  VON  HAZZI,  Munich:  Translation  of  Essay; 
U.  S.  2oth  Congress,  House  Doc.  226.  COUNT  S.  DANDOLO;  Manual  for  the 
Cultttre  of  Silk,  abridged:  Washington,  1828.  DE  LA  BROUSSE:  Des  Muriers  et 

a  American  Silk  Grower,  p.  54.  ^ 


40  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

de  £  Education  de    Vers  a  Sole;  Nismes.    1789  :    abridged  translation  by  W.   H. 
Vernon,  Boston,  1828. 

To  the  foregoing  should  be  added  the  various  reports  of  Congressional  com- 
mittees, and  especially  that  of  the  committee  on  agriculture  in  April,  1838,  which 
.gives  an  account  of  the  merits  of  the  multicaulis  mulberry. 

This  literature,  so  far  as  our  native  authors  are  concerned,  is-  in 
one  respect  peculiar.  Its  errors  lie  all  in  a  single  direction.  The 
silk  production  in  past  years  is  often  overstated;  the  probable  yield 
from  trees,  eggs  and  cocoons  is  often  overestimated;  plentiful  profits 
are  calculated;  but  the  the  mistake  of  understating  is  nowhere  made. 

Gradually,  but  at  an  increasing  rate  of  velocity,  the  tide  of  specu- 
lation rose.  Large  as  were  the  anticipated  profits  of  producing  silk, 
they  were  insignificant  as  compared  with  the  fortunes  to  be  made  by 
raising  the  new  mulberry  tree.  Orchards  of  it  were  planted  in  every 
state  in*the  Union.  At  least  300,000  trees  were  sold  at  Burlington, 
New  Jersey,  by  September,  1838,(/z)  and  all  that  were  growing  there 
could  have  been  sold  at  40  to  50  cents  apiece,  if  owners  had  been 
willing  to  take  that  price.  The  demand  raised  the  value  abroad,  so 
that  trees  which  had  been  worth  8  to  12-J  cents  each  in  France 
could  not  be  bought  there  on  a  remittance  of  less  than  1$  to  30 
cents. (b)  In  December,  1838,  sales  were  made  in  Boston  at  $1  per 
tree,  but  the  owners  withdrew  most  of  the  lot,  being  dissatisfied 
with  the  prices  obtained. ( <r)  Trees  of  a  single  season's  growth 
were  sometimes  sold  at  $5  each.(^/J  A  belief  in  the  profit  of  silk 
•culture  was,  of  course,  the  basis  of  the  demand  for  the  tree,  and  a 
table  was  published  showing  that  in  the  actual  experience  of  four- 
teen people,  an  average  of  $1,000  per  acre  had  been  obtained,  at  $4 
per  pound  of  silk.(i)  But  the  value  of  the  trees  became  greater 
than  that  of  the  silk  which  they  could  by  any  possibility  be  the 
means  of  producing.  A  farmer  in  Belchertown,  who  planted  $1,000 
worth  of  the  Morns  multicaulis  in  1838  on  three-quarters  of  an  acre, 
sold  the  trees  the  next  year  for  $6,000.(/)  The  sales  in  a  single  week 
in  Pennsylvania  exceeded  $300,000,  and  in  many  cases  the  same 
trees  were  sold  two  or  three  times  at  advancing  prices. (g)  In  other 
instances,  the  proceeds  of  15  acres  were  $32,500;  of  2  acres,  $4,000; 
of  10  acres,  $38,000.  The  exact  procedure  at  one  of  these  sales  is 
given  as  follows  : 

a  American  Silk  Grower,  p.  60. 

b  Ibid,,  p.  78. 

c  Ibid.,  p.  148. 

d  Lilly,  Silk  Industry,  p.  8. 

e  American  Silk  Grower,  p.  244. 

f  Ibid.,  p.  222. 

g  Morris'  Silk  Farmer,  September,  1839. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  41 

Annexed  is  a  correct  statement  of  the  number,  prices  and  proceeds  of  the 
Morns  innlticaulis,  sold  September  18, 1839,  at  auction,  at  the  Highfield  Cocoonery, 
Germantown,  Pennsylvania.  The  trees  were  sold  as  they  stood  in  the  ground; 
those  under  12  inches  to  be  rejected.  Owing  to  a  thin  soil  and  close  planting, 
the  sizes  of  trees  were  generally  small  and  the  branches  few ;  the  average  height, 
according  to  an  estimate  made  on  the  ground,  being  about  2^  feet.  The  purchasers 
were  mostly  from  a  distance,  the  largest  portion  being  from  Illinois,  Missouri  and 
other  Western  States.  260,000  trees  were  sold  at  prices  ranging  from  17  to  37% 
cents  per  tree,  averaging  31  23-100  cents  per  tree,  or  I2J^  cents  per  foot  in  length 
ot  stalk.  The  total  sale  was  $81,218  75. (a) 

The  testimony  of  an  eye-witness  at  Northampton  in  1839  is  that  : 
Mr.  Samuel  Whitmarsh  and  Dr.  Daniel  Stebbins  were  rejoicing  over  the  pur- 
chase of  a  dozen  imilticaulis  cuttings,  not  more  than  2  feet  long,  and  of  the  thick- 
ness of  a  pipe-stem,  for  $25.     ""  They  are  worth  $60,"  exclaimed  the  doctor,  in  his 
enthusiasm.  (&) 

The  discovery  was  made  that  cuttings  with  the  eyes  or  buds 
were  sufficient  for  planting  an  orchard  : 

On  Friday  last  the  steamboat  Alabama  took  up  to  Baltimore  22,000  mulberry 
switches  (Morus  m^lltica^tlis)  from  6  to  8  feet  in  length;  the  value  of  which,  at  the 
lowest  calculation,  based  upon  actual  sales  all  through  the  country,  cannot  be  less 
than  $45,000.  The  number  of  eyes  or  buds  on  these  22,000  switches  is  ascertained 
by  carefully  counting  them,  to  be  2,254,000,  which,  according  to  prevailing  prices, 
would  be  considered  cheap  at  2  to  2}^  cents  apiece.  The  whole  were  raised  on  15 
acres  of  such  land  as  would  be  considered  well  sold  at  $ro  an  acre  in  ordinary  situ- 
ations.^) 

The  bubble  burst  in  1839.  Silk  culturists  and  manufacturers 
had  everywhere  been  swept  into  the  rising  current.  As  for  the  tree 
speculators,  it  is  related  that  one,  who  had  been  among  the  most 
successful,  sent  an  agent  to  France  with  $80,000  to  buy  trees  and 
cuttings  in  the  winter  of  1838-'39. 

Before  the  whole  of  his  purchase  had  arrived  the  crisis  had  come.  The  nur- 
seryman had  failed  for  so  large  a  sum  that  he  could  never  reckon  up  his  indebted- 
ness, and  the  next  spring  his  nmlticaulis  trees  were  offered  in  vain  to  the  neigh- 
boring farmers  at  $i  a  hundred  for  pea-brush,  (d} 

Agriculturists  were  angry  and  vociferous  over  their  losses  and 
pulled  up  most  of  their  mulberry  orchards. 

In  every  village,  numerous  gardens  and  outlots  might  be  seen  planted  with 
muUicaulis;  in  1843  these  trees  had  become  a  worthless  incumbrance,  and  in  many 
instances  were  rooted  out  and  thrown  away.(^) 

a  Hazard's  United  States  Statistical  Register,  1839. 

b  The  Silk  Industry  in  America,  by  L.  P.  Brockett,  M.  D.;  New  York, 
1876,  p  39. 

c  American  Silk  Grower,  p.  287. 

d  Brockett:  Silk  Industry,  p.  40. 

e  Historical  Collections  of  Pennsylvania,  by  Sherman  Day;  Philadelphia, 
1843,  P-  167. 


42  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

For  a  few  years  after  the  collapse  of  the  multicaulis^  some  inter- 
est was  taken  in  the  hardier  Morns  alba.  Two  trees  of  one  season's 
growth,  raised  by  Elder  Sharp,  of  North  Windham,  Connecticut, 
were  sold  standing  in  his  nursery  in  August,  18-42,  at  auction,  for 
$106  and  $100.  Further  sales  were  withheld  because  the  bidding 
was  not  considered  sufficiently  spirited. (a)  In  1844,  a  blight  of  a 
general  character,  to  which  even  the  hardy  white  mulberry  yielded, 
gave  the  finishing  blow,  and  silk  culture  in  America  ceased  to  exist. 

Meanwhile,  step  by  step,  improvements  had'  been  effected  in 
the  manufacture  of -silk  goods.  As  early  as  1828,  Toerhoven  Bros., 
of  Philadelphia,  had  invented  a  machine  for  reeling,  doubling,  and 
twisting  at  once.(^)  A  later  invention,  by  Gamaliel  Gay,(<r)  of 
Poughkeepsie,  New  York,  had  a  similar  object — to  reel  silk  and 
to  make  sewing-thread  by  one  operation — and  was  highly  praised 
by  his  contemporaries.^)  But  success  did  not  lie  in  this  direction. 
Improvements  in  the  machinery  for  winding,  doubling,  and  spinning, 
which  are  mostly  credited  to  Nathan  Rixford,  of  Mansfield,  Connec- 
ticut, were  introduced  about  1838,  and  proved  of  permanent  value. 
One  of  the  most  important  of  these  is  the  "  friction  roller."  This 
device  avoids  the  unequal  twist  in  the  thread,  which  otherwise  arises 
from  the  increase  of  diameter  as  the  wound  silk  accumulates  upon  a 
bobbin,  (e) 

There  are  the  following  statistics  of  production  in  Massachu- 
setts for  the  year  1837:  value  of  sewing-silk  manufactured  at  Ded- 
ham,  in  this  year,  $10,000;  at  Northampton,  sewing-silk,  6,100 
pounds,  valued  at  $41,500;  at  Quincy  and  Reading,  coach  lace, 
value  at  latter  place,  $6,000;  Roxbury,  fringes  and  tassels,  $15,000; 
total  in  Massachusetts,  raw  silk,  $952;  sewing-silk,  $150,477;  hands 
employed,  156. (/)  In  1830  the  manufacture  of  silk  fringes,  tassels, 
and  the  like  was  begun  in  New  York  city;  this  business,  including 
many  different  kinds  of  trimmings,  is  now  one  of  the  largest  branches 
of  the  silk  industry,  and  is  more  extensively  developed  in  New 
York  than  elsewhere,  though  for  many  years  Philadelphia  held  pre- 
eminence. The  machinery  in  use  in  1830  in  the  silk  factories  at 

a  Lilly:  Silk  Industry,  p.  9. 

b  Rush  Letter,  p.  169. 

c  Mr.  Gay  was  also  the  inventor  of  a  silk  power-loom,  said  to  be  capable  of 
weaving  silk  more  rapidly  than  cotton  of  equal  fineness  could  be  woven.  Looms 
of  this  kind  were  put  in  operation  about  the  year  1835  in  silk  factories  at  Provi- 
dence, Rhode  Island,  and  Nantucket,  Massachusetts. — Bishop,  ii,  p.  392. 

d  Clarke's  Mulberry  and  Silkworm,  p.  116. 

e  Allen's  Chronology,  p.  9. 

f  Hayward's  Massachusetts  Gazeteer,  p.  135. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


43 


Mansfield,  Connecticut,  consisted  of  32  doubling  spindles,  84  for 
throwing,  32  for  soft-silk  winding,  two  broad  looms,  and  one  for 
fringe  silk,  (a) 

In  addition  to  the  preceding  details,  the  dates  of  starting  the 
silk  manufacture  in  various  localities  may  be  briefly  stated  as 
follows: 

1829.  Baltimore,  Maryland;  ribbons. 

1834.  Boston,  Massachusetts;  dress  trimmings. 
1834-1838.   Florence,  Massachusetts;  sewing-silk. 

1835.  Dedham,  Massachusetts;  sewing-silk. 

1838.  South  Manchester,  Connecticut;  general  silk  manufacture. 

1838.  Windsor  Locks,  Connecticut;  sewing-silk. 

1840.  Paterson,  New  Jersey;  general  silk  manufacture. 

1840.  Canton,  Massachusetts;  sewing-silk. 

1842.  Newark,  New  Jersey;  sewing-silk. 

1843.  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania;  se\ving-silk. 

1848.  Skinnerville,  afterward  moved  to  Holy6ke,  Mass.;  sewing-silk. 

1849.  Watertown,  Connecticut;  sewing-silk. 
1852.  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania;  ribbons. 
1363.  Rockville,  Connecticut;  sewing-silk. 
1865.  Trenton,  New-Jersey;  coach  lace. 

1865.  New-York,  New  York;  general  silk  manufacture. 

1866.  Willimantic,  Connecticut;  sewing-silk. 
1866.  Oneida,  New  York;  sewing-silk. 

1868.  Hoboken,  New  Jersey;  silk  dress  goods. 

1870.  San  Francisco,  California;  sewing-silk  and  fringe-silk. 

1871.  Brooklyn,  New  York;  silk  laces. 

1872.  College  Point,  Long  Island,  New  York;  ribbons. 

1874.  Wortendyke,  New  Jersey;  silk  handkerchiefs  and  dress  goods. 

1875.  Town  of  Union,  New  Jersey;  silk  dress  goods. 

It  has  been  already  mentioned  that  the  foundation  of  the  pres- 
ent silk  manufacture  was  laid  in  the  making  of  sewing-silk;  this  is 
not  only  true  of  the  business  in  general,  it  is  part  of  the  individual 
history  of  many  leading  concerns.  Each  of  the  successful  enter- 
prises has  started  from  very  small  beginnings  and  with  very  slender 
resources.  A  -close  competition,  at  first  with  foreign,  afterward 
with  domestic  rivals,  has  compelled  experiment  in  new  directions, 
and,  coupled  in  most  branches  of  the  business  with  constantly 
changing  fashions,  has  required  frequent  alterations  and  improve- 
ments in  machinery.  In  the  course  of  a  recent  attempt  to  ascertain 
the  percentage  of  decline  in  the  prices  of  silk  goods  during  the  last 
two  decades  of  years,  the  writer  constantly  encountered  the  fact 
that  very  few  of  the  kinds  of  goods  in  the  market  now  are  like 

a  Historical   Collections  of    Connecticut,   by  John  W.  Barber;    Hartford, 
1836,  p.  550. 


44  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 

those  that  were  made  ten  years  ago,  and  scarcely  any  are  precisely 
comparable  with  those  of  1860.  Many  of  the  experiments  in 
making  new  goods  met  partial  or  complete  failure  at  first,  but  were 
again  and  again  renewed  till  the  difficulties  were  overcome;  and  of 
these  most  interesting  trials  there  is  little  record.  A  description  of 
the  enterprises,  aside  from  the  difficulty  of  giving  fair  credit  to  each 
of  the  pioneers  in  different  localities,  would  require  a  series  of  bio- 
graphical sketches  beyond  the  plan  of  the  present  work.  For  these 
and  other  reasons  it  is  not  practicable  to  state  the  exact  dates  when 
the  various  branches  of  the  industry  were  first  undertaken;  but  the 
following  general  statements  may  be  of  service  : 

The  beginnings  of  the  manufacture  of  sewing-silk  by  machinery 
have  been  already  described;  the  production  of  "machine-twist  " — 
a  kind  of  thread  suited  for  use  on  the  sewing-machine,  and  first 
.adapted  to  that  purpose  in  February,  1852 — gave  a  great  impetus 
to  this  branch  of  the  trade.  Since  then  the  sewings  and  twist  manu- 
facture, keeping  pace  with  the  rapidly  increasing  use  of  sewing- 
machines,  has  wholly  freed  itself  from  foreign  rivalry,  but  suffers 
from  the  keenest  of  home  competition.  Manufactures  of  spun  silk 
{which  now  include  almost  every  kind  of  silk  goods)  were  begun  at 
South  Manchester,  Connecticut,  about  twenty-five  years  ago.  Rib- 
bons began  to  be  made  to  supply  deficiences  in  imported  invoices  as 
•early  as  1861;  their  manufacture  here  was  much  stimulated  during 
the  war  of  the  Rebellion  by  the  high  price  of  gold,  which  checked 
their  import.  Plain  gros-grain  dress  silks  were  made  to  some  extent 
by  different  manufacturers  before  1866,  when  the  business  was 
organized  in  New  Jersey;  its  most  rapid  growth  is  since  1876.  The 
recent  developement  of  this  branch  of  the  industry  is  largely  due  to 
Improvements  in  the  processes  of  "  finishing,"  which  is  carried  on 
by  several  firms  as  their  sole  business.  Brocaded  silks  and  satins 
were  attempted  on  a  large  scale  earlier  than  plain  gros-grain,  and 
were  produced  in  several  factories  when  that  was  confined  to  a  few. 
The  business  of  printing  Asiatic  pongees  preceded  the  regular  man- 
ufacture of  handkerchiefs,  which  was  of  slow  growth  till  1876,  when 
it  received  a  remarkable  impulse  from  the  Centennial  Exhibition. 
Hair  nets  and  spot  nets  were  largely  produced  in  1868;  a  lace 
covering  for  buttons  was  made  on  a  lace  machine  in  1869;  these 
undertakings  paved  the  way  for  the  manufacture  of  silk  laces,  which 
was  established  at  Brooklyn,  New  York,  in  1871.  The  making  of 
trimmings  of  all  kinds  forms  a  very  large  branch  of  the  silk  industry, 
but  this  high  position  has  been  acquired  mostly  within  the  last  ten 
years,  although  certain  classes  of  trimmings  were  produced  before 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  45 

the  present  century,  and  have  since  been  made  continuously.  Silk 
tapestry  and  the  like  are  just  emerging  from  the  experimental  stage, 
which  velvet  has  not  yet  quitted. 

Throughout  the  silk  manufacture,  the  condition — or  rather,  the 
character — of  the  raw  material  is  a  potent  factor.  The  machinery 
of  American  silk  mills  is  driven  at  the  highest  speed  compatible 
with  good  work.  Such  speed  is  often  needed  to  catch  the  demand 
of  a  short-lived  fashion,  and  it  proves  generally  profitable  by  econ- 
omizing labor.  For  use  on  the  swiftest  spindles  and  looms,  raw  silk 
of  the  most  uniform  character  is  required.  For  many  years  the 
Asiatic  supply  was  unsatisfactory,  while  the  European  was  too  costly 
to  be  used  at  a  profit.  An  important  effort  was  made  in  1840-'41 
to  secure  the  better  preparation  of  China  silk  for  this  market.  The 
chief  point  was  to  obtain  better  reeling  or  re-reeling  by  means  of 
a  winding-frame  moved  by  a  crank,  in  place  of  direct  winding  by 
hand  from  stationary  bamboo  sticks.  In  re-reeling,  also,  the  sizes 
of  the  fibre  were  to  be  sorted.  Improved  reels  made  by  Mr.  Rix- 
ford,  and  provided  with  a  traverse  attachment,  were  sent  to  China. 
Owing  to  oriental  prejudices,  the  attempt  was  at  that  time  unsuc- 
cessful. About  thirteen  years  afterward  the  effort  was  renewed, 
and  the  first  re-reeled  China  silk  was  brought  to  New  York  in  1854. 
For  a  while  the  work  was  well  done,  but  the  Chinese  became  care- 
less about  it,  and  the  re-reeled  silk  deteriorated  so  much  that  its 
importation  ceased.  A  third  effort  to  secure  better  reeling  in  China 
was  made  in  1867  and  met  with  more  permanent  success,  (a)  though 
at  best  the  work  there  falls  far  short  of  the  highest  standards. 
Imperfect  reeling  in  the  United  States  had  destroyed  the  market  for 
our  native  silk  and  retarded  our  manufactures;  imperfect  reeling  in 
China  was  for  even  a  longer  term  the  chief  obstacle  to  improvement, 
all  progress  being  hampered  by  defects  in  the  raw  material.  Among 
the  causes  of  rapid  advance  in  the  arts  of  manufacture  during  very 
recent  years,  improvement  in  the  quality  of  raw  silk,  especially 
from  Japan,  holds  a  promiment  place. 

The  use  of  Asiatic  silk  in  this  country  began  with  the  earliest 
successful  manufacture,  about  1829,  the  first  importation  of  the 
material  being  in  1828.  Eventually  the  receipts  of  raw  silk  became 
a  correct  index  of  the  amount  of  silk  manufacture  in  this  country, 
but  there  was  a  period  during  which  the  import  was  nearly  balanced 
by  an  export,  the  Asiatic  silk  from  around  Cape  Horn  merely  pass- 
ing through  our  ports  on  its  way  to  Europe.  For  instance,  the 
following  were  the  values  of  imports  and  exports  of  raw  silk  from 
September  30,  1831,  to  September  30,  1836  : 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


Year. 

Import. 

Export. 

1831                                    ...              ... 

$88  «7 

$1^4,  ^76 

l8q2 

48,938 

48,800 

18^  ....                       

135,348 

66,456 

18^1 

78,706 

I^Q  2=;6 

i8^< 

10,715 

4,114 

1836 

•57    CQ7 

Total                                               

iStoQQ  771 

SlQ'?  OO2 

Before  taking  the  import  of  raw  silk  as  our  guide  to  the  amount 
of  manufacture,  we  may  consider  a  few  statistics  from  other  sources. 
The  manufacture  of  sewing-silk  in  the  United  States  in  1844  is 
reported  as  "  396,790  pounds,  exclusive  of  what  was  used  and  made 
in  families;  of  that  quantity  176,210  pounds  were  made  in  Connec- 
ticut." (a)  There  are  good  reasons  for  regarding  these  figures  as 
greatly  in  excess  of  the  actual  production.  The  census  of  1850 
showed  a  much  smaller  amount  of  manufacture,  and  was  doubtless 
nearer  the  facts,  the  totals  given  being  of  sewing-silk,  value  $1,209,- 
426,  silk  cloth,  $17,050;  fringe,  gimp  and  tassels,  $583,000;  total, 
$1,809,476.  In  1855  there  were  made  in  Massachusetts,  in  the  three 
counties  of  Hampshire,  Essex  and  Norfolk,  44,000  pounds  of 
sewing  silk,  worth  $300,000.  '  That  quantity  was  exclusive  of 
fringes  and  tassels,  made  chiefly  at  Roxbury,  to  the  value  of 
$433,000,  and  ribbons  and  dress  trimmings  to  the  value  of  $38,000 
by  one  establishment  at  Newton."  As  the  silk  manufacture  of 
Connecticut  was  then  larger  than  that  of  any  other  state,  and  there 
was  a  considerable  amount  in  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey,  the 
value  of  the  whole  amount  of  silk  goods  made  in  that  year  cer- 
tainly exceeded  $3,000,000.  For  the  year  ending  June  30,  1860, 
the  census  returns  give  a  total  of  silk  goods  valued  at  $6,607,771. 
It  is  noteworthy  that  the  number  of  pounds  of  sewings  and  twist  is 
89  per  cent,  of  the  whole  number  of  pounds  of  raw  silk  said  to  be 
consumed  as  material,  and  that  the  latter  is  in  excess  of  the  esti- 
mated import.  The  value  of  silk  goods  made  in  1870,  according 
to  that  year's  census,  was  $12,210,662.  The  value  in  1880,  net,  in 
finished  goods,  was  $34,519,723. 

In  the  following  table  the  imports  of  raw  silk  are  given  from 
1843  to  1880,  inclusive,  according  to  the  records  of  the  United 
States  bureau  of  statistics,  as  to  the  value  and  number  of  pounds, 
except  where  the  pounds  are  estimated;  and  the  receipts  of  raw  silk 
at  New  York  and  San  Francisco  are  also  presented  in  number  of 
bales  and  cases  since  1850,  according  to  the  records  of  the  Silk 
Association  of  America  : 

a  Census  of  1860;  Introduction,  p.  ci. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 
Imports  of  Raw  Silk  by  Fiscal   Years. 


47 


Year 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Number  of 
bales  and 
cases  at  New 
York  and  San 
Francisco. 

1843 

17,898 

$53  350 

1844  

59,192 

172  593 

1845 

62697 

208  454 

1846     

68,938 

216,647 

1847  

a  100034 

250  086 

1848  

a  189  319 

354  973 

1849  

a  144  204 

384  535 

1850  

a  120,010 

401  385 

1851       

a  144,144 

456  449 

1852                          

a  119  604 

070  741-. 

1853                               

a  234  648 

722  931 

185-<                                   

a  305  523 

1  099  339 

4,04i( 
K   fi/Vl 

1855 

a  257  968 

751  617 

Q  77fj 

1856 

a  304  994 

991  234 

4  425 

1857  

a  190  757 

953  734 

3  107 

1858  

a  422  658 

1  542  195 

5  037 

1859  

a  388  597 

1  619  157 

3  859 

I860                 

a  297  877 

1  340  676 

5  241 

1861  

n  3R1  8Q1 

o  007 

1862                                                             

a,  132  460 

1  008 

1863 

Oi  250  740 

1  018  4R8 

2  667 

1864 

407  935 

2  057  964 

2429 

1865  

290021 

1  193  870 

2093 

1866                 .                        .            

567  904 

3437  900 

3,977 

1867                      

491  983 

2469001 

2,252 

1868                

512,449 

2,921,573 

4,938 

1869                   

720,045 

3,318,496 

5,946 

1870      .                   

583,589 

3,017,958 

5,263 

1871            

1.100,281 

5,739,592 

8,164 

1872             

1  063  809 

5  625  620 

9,203 

1873  

1,159.420 

6,460,621 

11,129 

1874 

794837 

3,854,008 

7,862 

1875             ..                                                      ... 

1,101  681 

4,504,306 

9,768 

1876.          

1,354,991 

5,404.408 

11,660 

1877  .  .          

1,186,170 

6,792,937 

10,640 

1878  

1,182,750 

5,103,084 

10,190 

1879 

1  889,776 

8,371,025 

15,949 

1880 

2,562,236 

12,024,699 

21,741 

43 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


As  it  will  be  of  interest  to  make  some  comparisons  between  the 
importation  of  silk  goods  and  their  manufacture,  tables  are  herewith 
given  of  the  imports.  The  first  of  the  tables  is  from  the  records  of 
the  United  States  bureau  of  statistics,  by  fiscal  years,  giving  the  values 
of  the  whole  imports  of  silk  manufactures  into  the  United  States 
since  1825.  Nine  or  ten  per  cent,  of  these  imported .  goods  in  the 
earlier  years  was  exported.  The  second  table  gives  values  of  the 
same  classes  of  imports  by  calendar  years  at  the  port  of  Ne\v  York, 
and  it  may  be  accepted  as  representing  for  those  years  95  per  cent, 
of  the  whole. 


Imports  of  silk  manufactures  by  fiscat,  years. 


Year. 

Value. 

Year.          Value. 

Year. 

Value. 

Year. 

Value. 

1825 

$10,271,527 

1839 

$21,638.828 

1853 

$30,492,024 

1867 

$18,357,052- 

1826 

8,104,837  •       1840 

9,526.988 

1854 

34,785,652 

1868 

16,908.  53a 

1827 

6,545,245         1841 

15,256  907 

1855 

24,366,556 

1869 

22.288.669 

1828 

7,608,614 

1842 

9  415,370 

1856 

30,226,532 

1870 

2J3.870.142. 

1829 

7,048,628  i       1843 

2.663,410 

1857 

27,800,319 

1871 

32.341.001 

1830 

5,774,010  !       1844 

7,088.406 

1858 

21,229.358 

1872 

36.448,618 

1831 

10,904,393         1845 

8,713,326 

1859 

28.080.366 

1873 

29.890.035 

1832 

9,094,566 

1846 

8  827.307 

1860 

32,961,120 

1874 

23,99(5.782. 

1833 

9,174,199         1847 

10,821.722 

1861 

23,657,269 

1875 

24,380,923 

1834 

2,609,349 

1848 

14.582.743 

1862 

7,588.376 

1876 

23,745.967 

1835 

16,597,983         1849 

13,791.232 

1863 

12,890,760 

1877 

21,830.159' 

1836 

22,862,177 

1850 

17,679,137 

1864 

20,597,723 

1878 

19,837.972. 

1837 

14,115,17!         1851 

25.829.692 

1865 

8,439,145 

1879 

24,013.398 

183*8 

9,812,338  i       1852 

21,623,646 

1866 

28,508,696 

1880 

32,188,690 

Imports  of  silk  manufactures  at  the  Port  of  New  York,  by  calendar  years. 


Year. 

Value. 

Year. 

Value. 

Year. 

Value. 

1851 

$23,548,774 

1861 

$12  298  863 

1871 

$33.899,719. 

1852  

22,519.223 

1862  

10,942,938 

1872  

32,677,749 

1853  

33,039,081 

1863  

14,761,186' 

1873 

24,379,322: 

1854 

27,931.659 

1864 

14  621  202 

18.4 

23  292  551 

1855  

23,269  544 

1865  

18  393,693 

1875 

23  168,  118 

185(5 

29,081,416 

1866 

22962864 

1876 

21,192,386- 

1857  

1858 

27,465,192 
17,632,843 

1867  
1868 

16,434,524 
18,903  232 

1877  
1878 

19,922,741 
20,042.730' 

1859 

31,877  863 

1869 

22  064  312 

1879 

25  830  829 

^1860  

34,330,321 

1870  

26,731,275 

1880  

33,305,460 

The  following  table  is  presented  in  order  to  show  specifically 
the  classes  of  silk  goods  imported  during  the  past  ten  years,  and 
to  facilitate  comparison  between  imports  and  manufactures  as  to 
different  kinds  of  articles : 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


5   5^ 


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50  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

In  comparing  the  foregoing  tables  with  the  statistics  of  produc- 
tion, it  should  be  noticed  that  the  imports  are  simply  the  invoiced 
values,  to  which  must  be  added  the  duties,  importers'  profits,  and 
other  expenses  of  importation,  before  the  market  value  here  can  be 
ascertained.  Making  these  allowances,  it  appears  probable  that  the 
proportion  of  silk  goods  in  this  country,  to  the  whole  amount  used, 
is  slowly  rising,  as  follows  : 


Percentage  of  sil-k  goods  made  in  the  United  States  as  compared  with 
whole  consumption  of  such  goods  in  the  country. 


Per  Cent. 
In  the  fiscal  year  1860 13 

In  the  fiscal  year  1870 23 

In  the  calendar  year  1874 28 

In  the  calendar  year  1875 34 

In  the  calendar  year  1876 35 

In  the  calendar  year  1877 32 

In  the  calendar  year  1878 36 

In  the  calendar  year  1879 39 

In  the  fiscal  year  1880 38 


If  the  foreign  invoices  are  much  undervalued,  the  foregoing  cal- 
culations must  be  largely  modified.  For  instance,  if  the  undervalu- 
ation of  silk  goods  imported  in  the  census  year  amounted  to  twenty 
per  cent.,  the  manufacture  of  such  goods  in  the  United  States  was 
only  one-third  of  the  consumption. 

Within  a  few  years  there  has  been  a  greater  and  swifter  growth 
than  before  in  certain  lines  of  silk  manufacture,  while  the  remainder 
has  simply  held  to  its  annual  average.  This  is  shown  in  the  tables 
that  follow;  the  first  giving  the  figures  of  production  for  different 
kinds  of  goods;  the  second  and  third  representing  graphically  that 
production,  and  the  importations  of  specified  articles.  In  the  graphic 
charts  the  scale  is  uniform,  permitting  direct  comparison: 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


I  g 


I  i 


s  I 


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to     _c>     J§  _2§  _jf»-  ur  o 

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CHART  OF  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  U.  S.  SINCE  1874. 
SHOWING  INCREASE  OR  DECREASE  OF  ANNUAL  VALUE  PRODUCED. 

ARTICLES. 

1874. 

1875. 

1876. 

1877. 

1878. 

1879. 

6MO'S 

I8°8F0. 

Machine  Twist  ) 
&  Sewing  Silk  f 

Millinery  Silks  - 

Tie  Silks  and  V 
Scarfs    -     -    ) 

Ribbons     -     -     - 

Fringes,  Trim-  J 
mings,  etc.     \ 

Braids  &  Bind-  / 
ings     -     -       } 

Dress  Goods  &  ) 
Satins     -    -   } 

Laces   -     -     -     - 

Handkerchiefs  .- 

Total  of  Goods  ) 
of  all  kinds     f 
fc 

.  —  -  — 

.  .-  — 

x/ 

"•^^ 

**^ 
^, 

•" 

V 

/ 

/ 
/ 

^ 

S 

\ 

^ 

/ 
/ 

^ 



,^- 

1 

--"A" 

• 

/ 
/ 

--'/"""" 

x 

X 

S 

.^/ 

x 
/        x-'' 

^V 

s' 

^"' 

^: 

- 

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/ 

/ 

. 

------ 

^/x 

/ 

^>*:^ 

^ 

/ 
/' 
/' 
/ 
/ 
/ 

,— 
.  .  .5°    i.w 

^~^~ 

PERCENT. 

^ 

^^ 

•• 

1  —  -^ 

Si 

S»              qoc 

sate. 

400 

~^-J 

500                   600 

CHART  OF  IMPORTS  OP  SILK  MANUFACTURES  SINCE  1874, 
SHOWING  INCREASE  OR  DECREASE  OF  ANNUAL  VALUE  IMPORTED. 

ARTICLES. 

1874. 

1875. 

1876. 

1877. 

1878. 

1879. 

SMO'S 
1880. 

Silks  &  Satins    - 
(Piece  Goods.) 

Crapes     -     -     - 

Velvets  and      ) 
Plushes     -    f 

Ribbons    -     -    - 
Laces  -     -     -     - 
Cravats     -     -     - 

Handkerchiefs   - 

Braids  &  Bind-  } 
ings     -       -    ) 

Silk  Mixtures    . 

Total  of  Goods  ) 
of  all  kinds  -  j" 

•L, 

_ 

_-—  — 

. 

^,^~ 

_--  ' 

""'' 

^^^^ 

.  — 



/• 

,/'       / 
/' 

x\ 

/ 

/ 

Vs 

\ 



- 





1 

^ 

^ 



~~^*~*~ 

,,qo      100              a»              apo              400              500              epoi 

EH  OCNF, 

54 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


The  following  are  summaries  of  the  census  returns  of  silk  manu- 
factures for  the  years  1850,  1860,   1870,   and  1880: 


Silk  Manufacture,  1850. 


02 

Hands  Employed. 

I 

o 

1 

1 
1 

3 

8 

jv 

1 
1 

i 

M 

jj 

j 

1 
1* 

A 

1 

1 

1 

£ 

3 

E 

PH 

Total  

67 

1,723 

503 

1,220    $678,300     $297,416 

$1,093,860  $1,809,476 

Sewing  Silk  

27 

829 

295 

534 

428,350 

152,712 

848,945 

1,209,426 

Silk  Cloth                       

9 

8 

3 

5 

5,600 

1,776 

11,235 

17.050 

Fringe,  Gimp  &  Tassels.... 

38 

886 

205 

681 

244.350 

142.928 

233,680 

583.000 

Silk  Manufacture,  186Q. 


States. 

Establish- 
ments. 

Hands  Employed. 

Capital. 

Wages. 

Total              Males. 

Females. 

The  United  States. 

Connecticut  
Maryland     

139 

5,435  '             1,585 

3,850 

$2,926,980 

$1,050,224 

22 
3 
20 
2 
9 
44 
4 
35 

1,137                   288 
33  p                  2:2 
781                   234 
23                      5 
716                   160 
1,159                   405 
25  '.'                 11 
1,559                   43) 

849 
13 
547 
18 
556 
754 
14 
1,099 

997,900 
85,800 
330,700 
9,000 
207,600 
323,980 
11,300 
1,010,700 

$155.760 
9,336 
191,720 
3,780 
111,492 
268.624 
5;732 
303,780 

Massachusetts  
New  Hampshire.. 
New  Jersey  
New  York 

Ohio               ,  

Pennsylvania  
Vermont... 

States. 

Materials. 

Products. 

Raw  Silk. 

All  Materials. 

Sewing  Silk? 
and  Twist. 

All  products* 

The  United  States     

Pounds. 

462,965 

Dollars. 
3,901,777 

Pounds. 
409,429 

Dollars. 
6,607,771 

Connecticut  
Maryland  

151,191 

821,807 
18,121 
814,970 
28,000 
631,725 
644,911 
14,300 
927.943 

145,835 

1,301,400 
39.800 
1,297,050 
36,480 
969,700 
1,154,294 
41,200 
1,767,845 

Massachusetts  

89,000 
6.000 
121,634 
29,140 

63,900 
5,440 
107,310 
25,444 

New  Hampshire  . 

New  Jersey 

New  York  
Ohio  

Pennsylvania  .  * 

66,000 

61,500 

Vermont  

SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


55 


3 

™*  S 

JTH 
*i=  o 

II 

all; 
33 


sin^  2  w 
included 


eels  of  4-horse  powe 
lk,  Sewing  and  Twis 


mp 
are 


42  females 
ed  from  th 


ouths, 
s  they  d 


i-s    ^ 


ital, 
re,  b 


tr  $ 
ply 


?  < 
H 

.-: 

&••» 

^3' 
per? 

11 
|.S 


mm 


:8 


»-l    '-I 

-J    01 


it  »«' 


Pound 

684,4 


ail 


ill 
?? 


Yar 
,2M 


ilkEi 
bons. 


s  «; 

5»     PS 

£!    W 


Pound 
127,5 


Dollars. 
3,880,35 


K 

TCP 


Other  pro 
ducts. 


00         •      C5 


•      00  • 


M^  CO  C?r  -^J 


W  tD  O 


288 


Establishments. 


Horse-power. 


Number. 


Stea 
gin 


Horse-power 


Number. 


Braiders. 


Looms. 


Looms,  hand. 


Spindles. 


Spoolers 


Winders. 


Total. 


r1  I    Males  above 
SJ  I  16. 


Females 
above  15. 


S 


Youth. 


Wat 

whee 


Silk  M 


acture 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


s1  B 
la 

t  « 


||?f  ?f  f  f  ggi 
**2,ii 


Number  of  establishments 


lil 


§  : 


Number  of  hand-looms 
on  broad  goods. 


I    Number  of  hand-looms 
on  narrow  goods. 


Number  of  power-looms 
on  broad  goods. 


S  8? 


Number  of  power-looms 
on  narrow  goods. 


. 

i-'.t« 
rf^.OO 


Number  of  spindles  wind 
ing,cleaning  and  doubling 


Number  of  spindles  spin 
ning  and  twisting. 


Number     of     spindles 
braiding. 


" 


Value  of  machinery. 


Value  of  buildings. 


Greatest  number  of  hands. 


"-*  * 


t-*  CSODfO 

tooi-i^iciTO 


Males  above  16 
years. 


Females   above 
15    years. 


Children       and 
youth. 


OONt-OO 


~    o  NT    o    o   ' 


May  to  November. 


November  to  May. 


Total    amount    paid    in 
wages  during  the  year. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


57 


l 

02 

1 

:          :              :     8    :     :*    :     :     :         :     : 

• 

^-*               ^F*.     ^GO                         J-1                                              CO 

t? 

jo 

1 

Value  of  raw  silk  and  silk 
materials  consumed. 

•                     CO                 CO      CO                            O5                                                  I-* 
•                 _*».     JO      O     _W                       j_k     JO      •                 50     JO      CO 

^ 

1 

Value  of  other  textile  ma- 
terials consumed. 

S          I    1    -            -£    ~    05                 &   £ 

"co 

Value  of  dye-stuffs,  chemi- 
cals and  oils  consumed. 

Co 

s     s  s  ^  i  st     ^        ft  g 

o          w          5    80    C*    •      W           en                 com 

i 

Value  of  fuel  consumed. 

^ 

•            j§   jo    Sf   jo                ^j          ^          ^    *5   5^ 

I      Ilisisl     i     §  S  s 

2 

Value  of  all  other  materials 
and  supplies  consumed. 

1 
.2 

M 

OO 

^                   UT      j»                              ^-»                                                      CO 

-  ^   1  5  §  1  S        §  S  S        i  S  g 

*iO    "or      CO     ^     "oo      Or     O5      O5     "tn        7    "co      »—  ^     "oo    To     ~CO 

o8wW°05WOUTSwOOT§ln 

$22,467,701 

Gross  value    of   materials 
and  supplies;  total. 

1 

I®        : 

1 

Silk  material  twice  included 

1 

§       8  1  i  i    1       1       :     1  1 

1 

iillSlisill.lii 

1 

Net  value  of  materials  and 
supplies;  total. 

ft         ea   ~a              co                         jar 

I 

Gross  value   of   manufac- 
tured products. 

§  i  i  s  s  i  §  i  1  1  i  i  §•  i  § 

2 

Of 

os          co   "to                 to                              *• 
UD             o     -5                     »l             or                     ox     to 
oo           toi-tos           co           o                  <ooo 

1 

CO   • 

Silk  products    twice  inclu- 
ded in  foregoing  column. 

°7                 hi      OO      O                 O5                 GO                            5S       "J 

Or              OTOtO              -vl              0»                      WO 

i 

JO              ^O    JO                        CO                                           Ui 

>-iinoto?CH                  ococo           *^coco 

OOCTtOCAOiOOWWOOOCitti 

I 

"en 

jo 

CO 

Net  value  of  manufactured 
products,  i.    e.t  finished  \ 
goods. 

« 

58  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Quantities  of  Silk,  in  products,  in  1880. 


STATES. 

Sewings 
and  twist. 

Broad 
goods  and 
nandker- 

chiefs. 

Ribbons 
and  laces. 

Trimmings 
and  small 
goods. 

Total  

Pounds. 
821  528 

Yards. 
10  856  284 

Yards. 
30  129  951 

Pounds. 
710  149 

California  

9  500 

4  650 

Connecticut  

394  981 

2  253  070 

8  541  235 

695 

Illinois  

12  220 

Kansas  

3  600 

Maine  

4  225 

Maryland  

1  784- 

Massachusetts  

273  816 

99  120 

573  320 

QQ  7QQ 

Missouri  

65 

New  Hampshire  

1  300 

300 

New  Jersey  

25  580 

6  975  655 

8  794  100 

50  405 

New  York  ,... 

88  765 

1  427  439 

10  302  696 

403  330 

Ohio  

2  187 

Pennsylvania  

23  110 

101  000 

1  915  000 

192  824 

Rhode  Island  

1  900 

Vermont  

251 

J 


Summary   of  Silk  production.     Finished  goods  for  the  year  ending 

June  30,   1880. 

Sewing-silk $776,120 

Machine  twist 6,007,735 

Floss  silk 225,025 

Dress  goods 4,115,205 

Satins 1,101,875 

Tie  silks  and  scarfs 606,675 

Millinery  silks 891,955 

Other  broad  goods 627,595 

Handkerchiefs 3,881,590 

Ribbons 6,023,100 

Laces 437,000 

Braids  and  bindings 999,685 

Fringes  and  dress  trimmings 4,950,275 

Cords,  tassels,  passementerie,  and  millinery  trimmings 1,866,575 

Upholstery  and  military  trimmings 1,392,355 

Coach  laces  and  carriage  trimmings 37,510 

Undertakers',  hatters',  and  fur  trimmings 59,805 

Mixed  goods  and  silk  values  therein ; . .  519,643 


United  States $34,519,723 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES, 


59 


Silk  manufacture  in  counties  producing  goods  to  the  value  of  $1,000,000 

annually. 


^ 

ill 

03 

£ 

fc-l 

: 

H 

*J  — 

|s 

*  1  G 

§ 

2  S3 

2  s^^'i 

§^  eS 

State  and  County. 

imber  of 
ries  repo 

ill 

mber  of 

"5  5  - 

fljij 

jfl 

£ 

5|-S 

S5 

0 

s»  -£ 

CU 

United  States. 

288 

$15,371,575 

7,452 

$32,966,090 

$27,688,170 

$7,531,505 

CONNECTICUT. 

Hartford  county  . 

3 

3,215,000 

549 

2,709,590 

2,571,820 

638,760 

Tolland  county.  . 

9 

560,000 

37 

1,6:7,145 

1,443,060 

168,360 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

Hampshire  c'nty. 

4 

437  400 

1  457  300 

1  416  600 

203  625 

NEW  JERSEY. 

Hudson  county.  . 
Passaic  county.  . 

17 
82 

753,300 
5,660,525 

1,060 
3,238 

2,045,000 
14,164,465 

2,028,400 
10,003,905 

485,560 
3,335,045 

NEW  YORK. 

New  York  c'nty. 

126 

3,431;450 

1,799 

7,800,250 

7,596,720 

2,079,535 

PENNSYLVANIA. 

Philadel.  county 

47 

1,313,900 

769 

3,162,340 

2,627,665 

620,620 

tf 

In  the  present  census  the  returns  show  a  total  of  "  capital  " 
amounting  to  $19,125,300.  If  the  assumption  be  made  that  the 
money  used  in  carrying  on  the  business,  apart  from  plant  and  fix- 
tures, is  turned  over  three  times  in  the  year,  the  following  estimate 
may  be  offered  : 


One-third  of  $9,146,705,  the  year's  expenditure  for  wages 

One-third  of  $22,467,701,  the  year's  cost  of  materials  and  supplies 7,489,234 

Fixed  capital  in  machinery 5,227,500 

Fixed  capital  in  buildings , 3,836,600 


Estimate  for  total  fixed  and  floating  capital 
Giving  a  result  within  2J^  per  cent,  of  the  returns. 


The  number  of  hands  reported  as  the  "  average  "  employed,  is 
usually  taken  from  the  pay-roll,  and  no  allowance  is  made  for  irreg- 
ularities and  absences.  The  actual  number  constantly  employed  is 
fully  ten  per  cent,  below  the  reported  average.  A  careful  study  of 
the  returns  on  this  point  has  justified  this  conclusion.  The  rates  of 
wages  paid  to  different  classes  of  operatives  during  the  year  ending 
June  30,  1881,  are  given  in  the  following  table  : 


60  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Rate  of  wages  per  week  to  specified  operatives. 


Designation  of  operatives. 

Sex. 

Average 
rate. 

Usual  rates. 

Raw  silk  winder  

F. 

$525 

$5  00  and  6  00 

Raw  silk  cleaner                                 

F. 

3  37 

3  00 

Raw  silk  doubler 

F. 

5  18 

5  00  and  5  50 

Raw  silk  spinner  

M. 

5  57 

6  00 

Do                     ,                                    

F 

4  87 

Raw  silk  twister 

M 

5  98 

6  00 

Do.                    

F 

5  67 

6  00 

Raw  silk  reeler 

F 

4  50 

Soft  silk  doubler                                         

F 

4  00 

Soft  silk  winder      

F 

6  35 

6  00 

Soft  silk  spooler 

F 

4  96 

Soft  silk  warper 

M 

10  71 

Do                                     

F 

7  62 

8  00 

Quiller  and  quill  winder 

F 

4  00 

Soft  silk  beamer  

M 

12  11 

12  00  and  15  00 

Do. 

F 

7  72 

7  00  and  9  CO 

Soft  silk  warp  twister 

13  96 

12  00  and  15  00 

Hand-loom  weaver  (#)  

M 

14  15 

12  00,  15  00,  18  00 

Do 

F 

8  44 

Power-loom  weaver  (a)  

M 

11  43 

12  00 

Do. 

F 

7  94 

Lace-machine  operator  

M 

14  75 

Braid-machine  operator  .... 

M 

16  00 

Braider 

5  41 

Passementerie  spinner  

M 

17  73 

Do                 

F 

12  00 

F 

5  30 

Tassel-maker.        

F 

5  29 

Finisher  

M 

13  50 

Designer  (&)        .  .. 

M 

24  71 

Card-cutter  (c)  

M 

11  68 

Dyer  (d)  

M 

12  77 

12  00  and  15  90 

Engineer                           . 

12  33 

Machinist  

M 

1240 

Loom-fixer  

M 

1587 

Laborer 

M 

8  73 

6  00  and  9  00 

a.  There  is  a  very  great  difference  in  the  size  of  looms  for  different  kinds  of  goods.    The 
highest  rates  paid  to  power-loom  weavers  are  paid  to  those  employed  on  the  large  looms  used 
in  fringe  and  trimming  manufacture. 

b.  The  designer  is  sometimes  also  the  superintendent. 

c.  The  card-cutter  is  sometimes  also  tke  designer. 

d.  The  chief  dyer  receives  from  $20  to  $30. 


SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  61 

The  net  value  of  raw  silk  and  silk  materials  consumed  in  man- 
ufacture is  $15,310,148.  The  gross  value,  as  given  in  the  returns, 
consists  of  the  following  items  : 

2,690,482  pounds  raw  silk,  valued  at $13,497,203 

Silk  material  twice  included  in  returns 3, 898, 535 

Waste  silk,   pierced  cocoons,  and  imported  organzine,  tram,  French 

twist,  etc 1,812,945 


Total 19,208,683 

Silk  material  is  "  twice  included  "  when,  for  instance,  it  appears 
first  as  "  raw  silk,"  in  the  returns  of  a  throwster,  and  secondly  as 
^'thrown  silk"  or  "fringe  silk,"  being  again  reported  as  raw  material 
in  the  return  of  a  weaver  or  fringe-maker.  The  number  of  pounds 
of  raw  silk  accounted  for  in  the  returns  is  2,690,482,  which  agrees 
veiy  fairly  with  the  import  of  the  fiscal  year,  2,562,236,  the  stock  on 
hand  being  somewhat  lighter  at  the  close  than  at  the  beginning  of 
the  year. 

Silk  products  twice  included  are  deducted  from  the  gross  pro- 
duction, leaving  a  result  which  it  will  be  noticed  exactly  agrees  with 
the  value  of  finished  goods  as  given  by  the  returns.  The  reasons 
for  this  deduction  are  similar  to  those  which  apply  to  the  values  of 
raw  materials.  While  the  total  production,  as  represented  by  reports 
amounting  to  $41,033,045,  covers  only  a  real  value  of  product 
amounting  to  $34,519,723,  it  should  be  noted  that  the  products  of 
partial  manufacture  go  for  the  most  part  to  be  finished  in  counties 
and  often  in  states  other  than  those  where  they  originate.  Hence  in 
many  cases  the  gross  production  of  a  county  or  state  more  nearly 
represents  its  industry  than  would  the  value  of  its  finished  goods. 
For  instance,  the  gross  production  of  Passaic  county,  New  Jersey, 
$14,164,465,  is  much  nearer  the  total  value  of  its  industry  than  $10,- 
003,905,  the  value  of  its  completed  goods,  because  the  greater  part 
of  the  thrown  and  fringe  silk  produced  in  Paterson,  New  Jersey,  is 
not  made  into  goods  there,  but  goes  elsewhere,  chiefly  to  New  York 
city  ;  and  the  same  is  true,  to  a  great  extent,  of  the  added  value 
from  spooling,  winding,  dyeing,  and  refinishing ;  those  processes 
being  largely  applied  in  New  Jersey  to  goods  belonging  in  other 
states. 

The  values  of  the  finished  goods  are  given  at  the  selling  prices 
in  their  chief  markets,  and  without  deduction  for  expenses  of  selling. 
No  questions  were  asked  or  answered  in  the  returns  as  to  such 
expenses,  nor  as  to  profit  and  loss,  freight  to  market,  taxes,  interest 
on  capital,  and  depreciation  of  materials,  goods,  buildings,  or 
machinery. 


62  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Mr.  John  E.  Atwood,  of  Stonington,  Connecticut,  has,  by  re- 
quest, contributed  a  letter  on  the  history  of  silk  machinery,  which  is 
herewith  subjoined  : 

STONINGTON,  CONNECTICUT,  September  27 j,  1881. 

About  fifty  years  ago  nearly  all  the  silk  produced  and  munufactured  in  the 
United  States  was  reeled  by  hand  in  a  rude  manner  and  spun  on  hand-wheels,  each 
attendant  operating  a  single  spindle  only.  The  substitution  of  machinery  near 
that  time,  driven  by  water  or  steam  power,  soon  superseded  the  old  methods.  Like 
nearly  everything  of  the  kind  at  that  period,  the  earlier  appliances  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  silk  were  primitive  in  character.  This  industry  has  been  affected  by  a 
series  of  advances  of  more  or  less  importance,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  the 
application  of  the  friction-roll  for  a  take-up  motion  in  spinning,  the  use  of  the  rail- 
road machine  for  doubling  and  twisting,  the  three-cord  matcher  for  doubling  and 
matching  ;  also  a  matcher  and  evener  combined  for  doubling,  and  finally  an 
improved  process  for  stretching  the  twisted  silk,  that  has  superseded  most  of  the 
previous  steps  by  cheapening  and  improving  the  product. 

In  the  meantime  many  minor  advantages  have  been  introduced,  while  steady 
progress  has  been  made  in  style  and  workmanship,  insomuch  that  the  modern  plant 
for  silk  manufacture  would  hardly  seem  to  be  related  to  the  earlier  specimens. 

These  observations  apply  more  particularly  to  the  silk  industry  up  to  a  very 
recent  period.  Within  the  last  two  or  three  years,  however,  there  has  been  a 
marked  advance  at  least  in  the  machinery  and  appliances  for  throwing  silk.  These 
changes  are  of  a  radical  type  and  of  such  superior  merits  as  to  work  a  complete 
revolution  in  their  sphere  of  operations.  These  last  steps  in  the  line  of  improve- 
ment apply  to  both  departments  of  silk  throwing,  commencing  with  a  most  superior 
guide  system,  and  include  important  features  in  winding,  redrawing,  doubling, 
reeling,  soft  silk  winding,  spinning,  etc.  While  the  machinery  is  far  superior  to  the 
former  styles,  at  the  same  time  it  costs  much  less  for  a  plant  to  turn  out  a  given 
production. 

A  brief  statement  as  regards  the  spinning  frame,  the  most  important  of  the 
series,  may  not  be  out  of  place  here. 

This  machine,  unlike  its  rivals,  is  adapted  for  both  the  sewing  and  the  weav- 
ing departments.  It  contains  the  new  guide  system  ;  it  has  practical  self-balancing- 
spindles  that  will  bear  a  maximum  velocity  of  10,000  revolutions  per  minute,  and 
run  much  better  than  the  common  spindles  will  at  5,000.  The  spindles  are  self- 
oiling,  neat,  and  waste  no  oil,  and  require  to  be  oiled  but  once  in  from  three  to  six 
months.  The  bands  will  last  much  longer  on  this  frame.  The  machine  is  a  model 
of  neatness  and  convenience.  It  can  be  operated  with  less  expensive  labor,  has 
several  minor  advantages,  and  has  a  radically  new  method  for  driving  the  spindles. 
It  is  very  economical  of  space,  the  last  edition  being  only  10  inches  from  the  center 
of  the  spindles  on  opposite  sides,  while  it  costs  less  for  spindles  than  any  other. 

If  we  stop  to  survey  the  progress  made  at  this  point  we  find  that  one  operative 
will  spin  more  silk  and  do  it  much  better  than  2,000  could  a  half  century  ago  ;  the 
room  occupied  would  be  only  about  one-four-hundredth  part  as  much,  and  the  cost 
of  the  machinery  about  one-twentieth. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing  statements  concerning  the  progress 
in  machinery  it  may  be  desirable  to  notice  the  increased  use  of 
power-looms.  The  following  statistics  have  been  compiled  from  the 


INDEX 

TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


PAGE. 

Agriculture,  Committee  (of  Congress)  on,  reports  of 36,  40 

"the  father  of" 6 

Aliens  not  permitted  to  engage  in  trade  or  manufacture 15 

Almshouses,  English,  to  furnish  silk  culturists.  ^ 16 

American  Institute,  of  New  York 39 

Philosophical  Society,  of  Philadelphia 29 

silk  worn  in  England: 

by  Charles  II 14 

by  the  princess  dowager  of  Wales 18 

by  Lord  Chesterfield 18 

by  Queen  Caroline 21 

by  Queen  Charlotte 30 

by  Catharine  Macaulay 30 

Aspinwall,  Dr.  Nathaniel,  of  Connecticut 29,  31 

Atwood,  John  E.,  of  Stonington,  Connecticut 62 

William,  of  Connecticut 35 

Authors,  list'of,  in  the  multicaulis  period • 39 

Bancroft's  summary  of  silk  culture  in  Virginia 14 

Berkeley,  Governor,  experiments  with  flax,  hemp,  and  silk 14 

Bingham,  Jesse,  of  Connecticut 35 

Blydenburgh,  S.,  of  Albany,  New  York 39 

Boston,  William  Molineaux's  attempts  in  manufacture  at 32 

Bounties  on  silk  culture  and  mulberry  trees  authorized: 

by  California 63 

by  Connecticut .33,  38 

by  counties,  fairs,  and  stock  companies 38 

in  Georgia 23 

in  Georgia,  largest  ever  paid 26 

by  Maine 38 

by  Massachusetts 38 

by  Massachusetts,  largest  amount  to  one  claimant 38 

by  New  Jersey 29,  38 

by  parliament  of  Great  Britain 19,26 

by  parliament,  stopped  by  Revolutionary  War 19 

by  payments  in  tobacco 14 

at  Savannah,  stimulating  effect  of 27 

by  Society  of  Arts  (London) 19,  28 

by  Vermont 38 

in  Virginia   14 


66  INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

PAGE. 

Broad  goods  and  handkerchiefs,  yards  of,  in  1880 58 

•  production  of,  in  1880 58 

Braids  and  bindings,  production  of,  in  1880 58 

Brousse,  de  la , 39 

Buell,  Judge,  of  Albany,  New  York 39 

Burlington,  New  Jersey,  silk  culture  in 39 

California,  production  of  silkworm  eggs  and  cocoons  in 63 

Capital  employed  in  silk  manufacture,  1880 , 59 

Census  returns  of  silk  manufacture,  1850,  1860,  1870 54,  55 

1880 56,  57,  58 

Charleston,  act  to  establish  a  filature  at 19 

Cheney,  Seth  W.,  of  Connecticut 35 

Ward,  &  Bros.,  of  Burlington,  New  Jersey 39 

Chidsey,  Samuel,  of  Scipio,  New  York 35 

Children,  silk  culture  suitable  to  the  tenderest  age  of 19 

China  re-reeled  silk,  efforts  to  obtain 45 

Clap,  Rev.  T.,  president  of  Yale  College 28 

Clark,  G.  B.,  of  New  York 38 

Clarke,  John,  of  Philadelphia 39 

Clothing,  parliament  urged  to  forbid  colonial  manufacture  of 15 

Cobb,  Jonathan  H.,  of  Massachusetts   35,  38,  39 

Cochineal  insect  confused  with  silkworm 8 

Cocoons  obtained  and  shipped  at  New  Orleans 63 

price  of,  in  America,  in  1621 II 

weight  of,  required  to  make  a  pound  of  raw  silk 24 

of  the  wild  (alleged)  silkworm  in  Virginia 13 

size  of,  in  Virginia 13 

Comstock,  Franklin  G. ,  of  Philadelphia 39 

Conant,  Joseph,  of  Connecticut 35 

Congress,  silk  culture  brought  to  the  attention  of 35 

Connecticut,  introduction  of  silk  industry  into 31 

the  chief  seat  of  early  silk  manufacture 32 

legislation  to  encourage  silk  culture.  ...    31,  36 

Convicts,  proposed  employment  of,  in  silk  culture 17 

Cortes  appoints  officers  to  promote  silk  culture  in  America 5 

Currency,  sewing-silk  used  for,  and  its  debasement 33,  3  }. 

Dandolo,  Count  S 39 

Davis,  Jonathan 39 

Dearborn,  General  Henry  Alex.  Scammel 39 

Delabigarre,  Peter,  of  New  York 39 

Delgadillo,  Diego,  credited  with  first  introduction  of  silk  industry 5 

Dennis,  Jonathan,  jr , 35 

Deslongchamps,  M „ 39 

Diggs,  Governor  Edward,  essays  on  silk  culture 14 

Dress  goods  of  silk,  dates  of  starting  manufacture  of 43 

production  of ,  in  1880 58,  59 

Dresses  of  silk,  the  first  made  in  New  England 31 

frequently  made  before  the  Revolution 30,  31,  32 

worn  by  eminent  persons  abroad See  American  silk. 


INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  67 

PAGE. 
Du  Ponceau,  Peter  S.,  of  Philadelphia 36,  37,  39 

Dyestuffs,  chemicals,  and  oils  used  in  manufacture 57 

Ebenezer,  Georgia,  settlement  of 22 

beginnings  of  silk  industry  at 22 

product  and  export,  1770-' 72 ; .  24 

largest  production  in  the  state,  at 27 

Eggs  of  the  silkworm,  hatched  by  carrying  in  the  bosom 22 

sent  from  Spain  to  America     5 

shipment  from  England  at  first  unsuccessful 7 

shipment,  second,  invoice  of 9 

Elizabeth  (Queen),  gown  made  for,  of  silk  grass n 

Eliot,  Rev.  Dr.  Jared,  of  Connecticut 23,  28 

End  of  silk  industry  in  Georgia 27 

in  Louisiana. 20 

in  New  Spain 6 

in  South  Carolina 19 

in  Virginia 14 

End  of  the  Morns  multicaulis  speculation 41 

Evans,  Dr.  Cadwallader,  of  Philadelphia 29 

Export  of  American  silk  goods  to  Peru 6 

raw  silk  from  Georgia 23,  24,  25 

South  Carolina 18 

United  States  in  transit  to  Europe 45 

textile  machinery  from  England  forbidden 31 

Eyes  or  buds  of  the  mulberry  sufficient  for  planting 41 

Farmers  angry  at  their  losses 41 

Fessenden,  Thomas  G. ,  of  Boston 39 

Filature,  at  Charleston,  act  to  establish 19 

at  Philadelphia,  authorized  and  opened 29 

(second  one),  by  Du  Ponceau 37 

at  Savannah,  built  in  1744 23 

burned  in  1757  (afterward  rebuilt) 25 

discontinued  and  broken  up note  to 24 

Fines  for  neglecting  silk  culture 14 

Fisher,  Grace,  of  Pennsylvania .30 

Fisk,  William  A.,  of  Connecticut 35 

Flags  of  American  silk 37 

Floss  silk,  production  of,  in  1880. .  58 

France,  measures  taken  to  encourage  silk  industry  in 6 

Franklin,  Dr.  Benjamin,  urges  promotion  of  silk  industry 29 

French  Revolution  indirectly  checks  American  silk  culture 32 

settlers  in  Georgia  produce  and  supply  sewing  silk 27 

Fuel  consumed  in  manufacture,  1880 57 

Garden,  public,  at  Savannah 21 

Gates,  Sir  Thomas,  testimony  as  to  growth  of  mulberry  trees 8 

Gee,  Joshua,  estimate  of  comparative  value  of  negro  labor 16 

George  II  directs  a  silver  seal  to  be  made  for  Georgia 26 

Georgia  and  South  Carolina  denominated  "silk  colonies" 26 

historical  error  as  to  export  of  raw  silk  from 2.4,  25 


68  INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

PAGE. 

Georgia,  introduction  of  silk  industry  into 20 

separated  from  the  Carolinas. ...      20 

trustees  of,  favor  the  cultivation  of  silk  and  wine 20 

Handkerchiefs,  silk,  Centennial  exhibition  promotes  manufacture  of 44 

dates  of  starting-  manufacture  of 43,  44 

production  of,  in  1880 58 

Hanks,  Rodney  and  Horatio,  of  Connecticut 35 

William,  of  Mansfield,  Connecticut 32 

Hartlib,  Samuel,  essay  of,  on  the  reformed  Virginia  silkworm 12 

Hazzi,  Count  von,  of  Munich,  Bavaria 36,  39 

Henry  IV,  of  France,  encourages  the  silk  industry. 7 

Homergue,  John  d  ,  of  Philadelphia , 30,  35,  36,  39 

Horstmann,  William  H.,  of  Philadelphia 34 

Hovey,  Storrs,  of  Connecticut •  •  35 

Hughes,  John,  of  Pennsylvania 28 

Huguenots  introduce  silk  industry  into  South  Carolina 15. 

Imports  of  raw  silk 46,  47 

silk  manufactures 49,  53 

in  fiscal  years  i825~'8o 48 

in  calendar  years  i8si-'8o 48 

specifying  articles,  i87i-'8o „ 49 

Indians  to  be  taught  silk  culture 13 

Ingersoll,  Jared ,  of  Connecticut   28 

Instructions  for  silk  culture,  book  of,  sent  by  James  1 10,  n 

Introduction  of  the  mulberry  tree  into  America 5 

silkworm  into  America 5 

silk  industry  into  Georgia 20 

Louisiana , 19 

Pennsylvania 28 

South  Carolina 15 

Inventions  :  improvements  in  machinery  during  fifty  years   62 

reels,  improved 35 

reeling  from  cocoons  and  making  sewing-silk  at  once 42 

reeling,  doubling,  and  twisting  at  once 42 

spinning-wheel  improved  by  double  wheel  head 34 

throwing  and  twisting,   improved  machine  for 31 

water-power  machinery  in  Connecticut 35 

Iron  and  steel  manufacture  forbidden  in  the  colonies 31 

Italians  brought  to  Georgia  to  teach  silk  culture 22 

Jacquard  attachments  in  use  in  silk  manufacture,  1880 63 

James  I,  of  England,  encourages  the  silk  industry  at  home 7 

sends  silkworm  eggs  to  Virginia 7,  9 

quarrels  with  the  Virginia  Company n 

Japan,  raw  silk  from,  excellence  of 45 

Johnson,  Sir  Nathaniel,  efforts  in  silk  culture.  .* 16 

Kansas,  production  of  raw  silk  in  1880 64 

Kenrick,  William 39 

King  Charles  II  wears  American  silk 14 


INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  69 

PAGE. 

Laces,  silk,  manufacture  of,  at  Ipswich,  Massachusetts 34 

dates  of  starting 43,  44 

production  of,  in  1880 58 

Land  grant  for  mulberry  planting  at  Greenbush,  New  York 38 

value  per  acre  when  planted  with  mulberry  trees 40,  41 

Lardner,  Dr.  Dionysius   3^ 

Law,  Governor,  wears  garments  of  New  England  silk 31 

Law,  John,  speculative  schemes  of i<> 

Lilly,  Alfred,  of  Connecticut 35 

Logan,  James,  recommends  the  industry  to' the  Penn  family 27 

Lombe,  Sir  Thomas,  opinion  on  silk  industry 20 

great  silk-throwing  mill  in  England 17 

weaves  a  dress  of  American  silk 21 

Looms,  hand  and  power,  numbers  of,  in  1880 56- 

power,  increase  in  numbers  of,  i875-'8o , . 63, 

Louisiana,  introduction  of  silk  industry  into 19 

Machinery  in  use  in  1837  for  silk  manufacture 42 

value  of,  in  silk  manufacture,  1880 56- 

improvements  in. . .  .See  Inventions. 

Machines  used  in  silk  manufacture,  number  of,  in  1880. .  „ 63, 

Mansfield,  Connecticut,  early  seat  of  silk  industry 31 

production  of,  per  year 33,  35 

Mantua,  piece  of,  woven  from  home-grown  cocoons c 30 

Manufactures  in  America,  measures  to  prevent 15,  28,  30,  31 

committee  (of  Congress)  on,  report  of 36- 

of  silk,  in  America,  the  earliest. . .  , 6 

dates  of  starting  of  different  kinds  of 43,  44- 

in  different  localities 43 

in  Connecticut,  a  household  art 32,  33 

in  England , 15,  16,  17 

imports  of,  by  chart 52" 

in  Massachusetts  before  the  Revolution 32: 

in  1837 42 

in  1855 46 

in  South  Carolina,  mixed  fabrics .  16 

in  Virginia,  attempted 15, 

Manufactures  of  silk  in  the  United  States  in  1880: 

in  counties  producing  $1,000,000  per  year 591 

in  pounds  and  yards  produced 58 

proportion  of  home  product  to  consumption 50 

production,  by  chart S2- 

of  finished  goods,  iS74~'8o 51 

gross 57 

net 5/ 

net  and  gross,  remarks  on 61 

summary  of , 5  & 

some  are  twice  included  in  returns 61 

statistics  of,  1844,  1850,  1855 46 

1850,  1860,  1870 54,  5$ 

1880, 56,  57,  5& 


70  INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

PAGE. 

Manufacturers  of  silk  involved  in  the  imilticaulis  speculation 41 

Marshall,  John,  appropriation  for  the  encouragement  of 31 

Massachusetts,  silk  manufacture  in 32,  34,  42,  46 

Mease,  James,  M.  D.,  of  Philadelphia .39 

Millinery  silks,  production  of,  in  1880 58 

Mills,  silk,  earliest,  at  Mansfield,  Connecticut 35 

and  factories,  number  of,  in  1880 56 

Mississippi  Company  organized  by  John  Law 19 

silk-culture  on  the  banks  of  the 19 

Mixed  silk  fabrics,  earliest  manufacture  of,  in  America , 16 

and  silk  values  therein,  1880 58 

Molineaux,  William,  starts  silk  manufacture  at  Boston 32 

Morin,   M 39 

Morris,  Edmund,  of  Burlington,  New  Jersey 39 

Morus  alba,  speculative  prices  for , 42 

Morus  multicaulis  mania,  i83o-'4i 37,41 

period,  literature  of 39 

Motto  of  colonial  seal  of  Georgia 20 

silver  seal  of  Georgia 26 

Mulberry  trees  in  America,  introduction  of *. .   5 

at  Burlington,  New  Jersey,  number  of,  sold 40 

in  Chelsea  Park,  London note  to 19 

in  Connecticut,  the  planting  of . . . 31 

in  England,  10,000  to  each  county 7 

in  France,  brought  from  Italy 6 

in  Georgia,  estimate  of  number 23 

their  planting  compulsory 20 

gifts  of,  by  Dr.  Nathaniel  Aspinwall 29 

land  grant  for  planting 38 

Morus  multicaulis  first  introduced   37 

near  New  Orleans,  the  planting  of 20 

in  New  Spain,  the  planting  of 5 

in  Oatland  royal  gardens,   England 7 

prices  of,  during  period  of  speculation 40,  42 

at  Savannah,  in  the  trustees'  garden 21 

in  South  Carolina,  flourishing 18 

and  sugar-beet  culture,  recommended 37 

in  Virginia,  their  planting  compulsory 10 

abundance  of 8 

"National  silk  convention 38 

Navigation  laws,  British,  effect  on  silk  industry . ,  15 

Negro  labor  proposed  for  silk  culture 16 

women,  want  of,  checks  silk  industry 19 

Nets,  silk,  date  of  starting  manufacture  of 44 

New  England,  first  garments  of  home-grown  silk  in 31 

New  Jersey  legislature,  bounties  offered  by 29,  38 

New  Spain,  silk  introduced  into 5 

Oglethorpe,  General,  takes  Georgia  silk  to  England 21 

Oatlands,  England,  mulberry  trees  in  royal  gardens  at 7 


INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  7i 

PAGE. 

Operatives,  numbers  of,  1880 56,  59 

Ortolengi,  M. ,  superintendent  of  filature  at  Savannah 2& 

Palmetto  leaves  not  used  by  silkworms t 8 

Pascalis,  Dr.  Felix,  of  New  York 37,  39 

Paupers,  employment  of,  in  silk  manufacture  at  Boston.  ...    32 

proposition  to  employ,  in  silk  culture 16 

Penn  family,  the  silk  industry  recommended  to 27 

Pennsylvania,  introduction  of  silk  industry 27 

ladies  wear  silk  of  their  own  raising 30 

Perrottet,  Samuel,  of  Paris .37 

Philadelphia,  establishment  of  first  filature 29 

second  filature 37 

mulberry  trees  planted  near 29 

Pinckney,  Mrs. ,  takes  American  silk  to  England 18- 

Pollock,  Cullen,  of  North  Carolina 2& 

George,  of  North  Carolina 28 

Pongees,  the  printing  of 44 

Premiums  for  silk  and  mulberry  culture See  Bounties. 

Prices  of  mulberry  trees  (speculative) 40,  42 

silk  goods  in  successive  years 43 

Profit  and  loss,  no  account  of,  in  census  returns 61 

Pullein,  Samuel 39 

Punishments  for  neglecting  silk  culture 14 

Purry,  John  Peter,  brings  Swiss  colonists  to  South  Carolina 18 

Quality  of  American-grown  silk,  testimony  of  Charles  II 14 

Sir  Thomas  Lombe , 18 

Quantities  of  silk  (pounds  and  yards)  made  in  1880 58 

Queen  Caroline  wears  American  silk 21 

Charlotte  wears  American  silk 30 

Elizabeth  wears  American  "silk  grass" II 

Raw  materials  of  manufacture,  alleged  loss  by  importing 17 

textile,  other  than  silk 57 

sometimes  twice  reported 61 

Raw  silk  in  America,  earliest  quotation  of  prices  of II 

from  Asia,  beginning  of  importation 45 

into  England,  imports  of,  from  Italy 16,  21,  23 

admitted  duty  free  from  colonies 26 

in  Georgia,  production  of 24 

historical  error  in  export  of 25 

imports  of,  i83i-'36;  i843~'8o 46,  47 

reeling  of,  the  need  of  good 45 

from  South  Carolina,  exports  of. 18 

product  since  multicaulis  speculation 63 

and  silk  materials  consumed  in  manufacture 57 

twice  included  in  returns 61 

weight  of  cocoons  to  furnish  a  pound  of 24 

Raynal,  Abbe,  reasons  of,  for  failure  of  silk  culture 19 

Reeling  China  silk,  efforts  for  improving 45 


72  INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

PAGE. 

Reeling  in  Connecticut,  primitive  methods 33 

bounties  for  proficiency  in  23 

at  Ebenezer,  Georgia 22 

implements  for,  distributed  in  Georgia 23 

improvements  in  machinery  for 35 

instructor  in,  sent  to  Georgia 21 

Italian  proficients  in,  sent  to  Georgia 22 

Revolutionary  War,  effect  of,  on  silk  industry. 30,  32 

Ribbons  and  laces  (silk),  yards  of,  in  1880 58 

(silk),  dates  of  starting  manufacture 44 

production  of,  in  1880 58 

Rixford,  Nathan,  of  Connecticut 35 

Roberts,  E.  P.,  of  Baltimore 39 

Ruffin,  Edmund,  of  Richmond,  Virginia 39 

Rush,  Richard,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  report  to 36,  39 

Rutherford,  John,  of  North  Carolina 28 

Salza  (Bavaria),  emigration  from  the  valley  of 22 

Satins,  date  of  starting  manufacture  of 44 

production  of,  in  1880 58 

Savannah,  establishment  of  filature  at   23 

filature  discontinued  at note  to 24 

Seal,  colonial,  of  Georgia,  representing  silkworms 20 

of  silver,  for  Georgia,  representing  a  tender  of  silk 26 

Selling  expenses  not  called  for  in  census  returns 61 

Serres,  Oliver  de,  of  France   6 

Sewing-silk  and  twist,  pounds  produced  in  1880  58 

dates  of  starting  manufacture  of 43 

early  history  of  manufacture  of 32 

length  of  skein  defined  by  legislation 34 

manufacture  of,  1844  and  1850 46 

production  of,  in  1880 58 

as  a  substitute  for  money,  in  currency 34 

Silk  culture  as  an  expedient  to  prevent  manufacture 28 

.Silk  grass,  a  gown  of,  made  for  Queen  Elizabeth n 

Silk  Hope  plantation,  in  South  Carolina. 16,  18 

Silkworm  alleged  to  be  found  wild  in  America 8,  12 

in  palmetto  leaves   . . 8 

eggs,  the  first  in  America 5 

subsequent  shipments 7,  9 

Skinner,  John  S 39 

Slavery  in  the  colonies  encouraged  by  James  1 9 

Smith,  Gideon  B. ,  of  Baltimore 35,  39 

Snow,  Eliphalet 35 

Society  of  Arts,  London,  bounties  for  silk  culture 19 

South  Carolina,  introduction  of  the  industry  into 15 

and  Georgia  denominated  silk  colonies. 26 

silk  products  of,  credited  to  Georgia 18 

South  Sea  bubble 19 


INDEX  TO  SILK  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  73 

PAGE. 

Spindles,  numbers  of,  in  1880 56 

Spun  silk,  date  of  starting  manufacture 44 

Stiles,  Dr.  Ezra,  President  of  Yale  College 31 

Sully  insults  the  silk  merchants  of  Paris 6 

Summers,  Sir  George,  expedition  of,  with  a  fleet  of  vessels 7 

Swiss  silk-culturists  in  South  Carolina 18 

Taffeta,  the  first  made  in  America 6 

Tapestry,  silk,  date  of  starting  manufacture  of . . .    45 

Throwing  silk,  Sir  Thomas  Lombe's  great  mill  for 17 

Thrown  silk,  estimate  of  import  of,  into  Great  Britain 21 

Throwsters,  silk,  company  of,  chartered  in  1629 n 

journeymen,  emigrating  to  America 28 

Tie  silks  and  scarfs,  production  of,  in  1880 58 

Tinelli,  Signor 39 

Tobacco,  bounties  payable  in 14 

more  profitable  than  silk 15 

proclamation  against,  by  James  1 9 

uprooted  in  Great  Britain 9 

Trimmings  and  small  goods,  pounds  of,  in  1880 58 

silk,  beginnings  of  manufacture  of .' 34,  42 

dates  of  starting  manufacture  of 34,  42,  44 

production  of,  in  1880 58 

United  Society  for  Promoting  American  Manufactures 31 

Utah,  production  of  raw  silk  in,  1880 64 

Velvet  manufacture  still  an  experiment 45 

Vernon,  W.  H 40 

Virginia,  introduction  of  silk  industry  into 8 

Wages  paid  to  operatives  in  1880 „ 56 

rates  of,  per  week,  to  specified  operatives !, 60 

Water-power  machinery  for  silk-throwing  in  England 17 

used  in  silk  manufacture,  early  attempts 35 

Weaving  broad  silks  in  England  begun  about  1620 II 

Whitmarsh,  Samuel,  of  Northampton 39,  41 

Williams,  E.  W.,  essays  on  silk  culture 12 

Windham  and  Tolland  counties,  Connecticut,  memorial  from 36 

Women,  silk  culture  suitable  to  the  weakness  of  their  sex 19 

Wright,  Susannah,  of  Columbia,  Pennsylvania 30 


TENTH 


ANNUAL  REPORT 


OF    THE 


SILK  ASSOCIATION 


OF   AMERICA. 


WEDNESDAY,  MAY   i6th,    1882. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS, 

OF  THE 

TENTH    ANNUAL    REPORT 

OF  THE 

SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA, 


Officers  of  the  Association,  1882-1883 77 

Members  of  the  Association  May  i6th,  1882 79 

Secretary's  Report, 83 

Statistics, 91 

Silk  Manufactures;  Production  in  1881, 93 

Imports  of  Raw  Silk  in  Calendar  Years, 94 

Imports  of  Raw  Silk  in  Fiscal  Years, 95 

Imports  of  Raw  Silk  by  Countries, 96 

Imports  of  Raw  Silk  at  New  York  and  San  Francisco,  separate, . .  97 

&*     Imports  of  Waste  Silk  and  Cocoons, 97 

Imports  of  Silk  Manufactures  in  Calendar  Years, 98 

Imports  of  Silk  Manufactures  in  Fiscal  Years, 99 

Imports  of  Silk  Manufactures  by  Months, 100 

Sugar,  Molasses,  etc.,  Duties  in  Detail, 101 

Wool,  and  Woolen  Manufactures,  Duties  in  Detail, 101 

Silk  Manufactures,  Duties  in  Detail, 102 

Cotton  Manufactures,  Duties  in  Detail, • 103 

Duty  Paying  Imports  of  the  United   States, 104 


THE 


SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA. 


OFFICERS,     1882-1883. 


President. 
FRANK  W.  CHENEY, Hartford,  Conn. 

Vice- Presidents. 

B.  RICHARDSON, New  York. 

C.  LAMBERT, Paterson,  N.  J. 

A.  B.  STRANGE, New  York. 

vV»*                    Treasurer. 
LOUIS  FRANKE, :  . .  New  York. 

Directors. 

F.  O.  HORSTMANN, Philadelphia,  Pa. 

IRA    DIMOCK, Hartford,  Conn. 

WM.  STRANGE, Paterson,  N.  J. 

JOHN  N.  STEARNS, New  York. 

WILLIAM  SKINNER, Holyoke,  Mass. 

S.  E.  HUNTINGTON, New  York. 

GEORGE  H.  BURRITT, " 

L.  BAYARD  SMITH, 

MILO  M.  BELDING, 

A.  G.  JENNINGS, Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

S.  W.  CLAPP, New  York. 

WM.   T.   RYLE, 

JOHN  T.  WALKER, 

JOHN  D.  CUTTER, Newark,  N.  J. 

HERMAN    SIMON, Town  of  Union,  N.  J. 

S.   M.   MEYENBERG, Hoboken,  N.  J. 

JAMES    BOOTH,. Paterson,  N.  J. 

ALBERT  TILT, 

J.  SILBERMANN, ' ' . .  New  York. 

JOSEPH    LOTH, 

Secretary. 
WM.  C.   WYCKOFF, 446   Broome   Street,  N.  Y. 


LIST   OF   MEMBERS 

Oin 

THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA, 

May    16th,    1882. 


Adachi,  Nanishiro, 7  Warren  Street,  New  York. 

Aral,  R., 18  Mercer  Street,          " 

Armstrong,  Benjamin  A., / New  London,  Conn. 

Arnold,  Frank, 477-481  Broome  Street,  New  York. 

Atwood,  Eugene, Stonington,  Conn. 

Aub,  Hackenburg  &  Co., Philadelphia,  Fa. 

Auffmordt,  C.  A.  &  Co., 33~35  Greene  Street,  New  York. 

Banning,   David  L., 87  Leonard  Street,          " 

Belding,  A.  N., Rockville,   Conn. 

Belding,  D.  W., . . Cincinnati,  Ohio. 

Belding,   H.   H., . .  ; Chicago,  111. 

Belding,  Milo  M., 456  Broadway,  New  York. 

Blydenburgh,  Jesse  S., .66  Pine  Street,          " 

Boettger,  Henry  W., 47  Mercer  Street,         " 

Boissiere,  E.  V.  de, Williamsburgh,  Franklin  Co.,  Kansas. 

Booth,  James, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Booth,  J.  H.  &  Co., 54  Howard  Street,  New  York. 

Bottum,  C.  L., Northampton,  Mass. 

Bowman,  John  A., Boston,       " 

Bridge,  Frederick, 32  Burling  Slip,  New  York. 

Brown,  L.  D.  &  Son, Middletown,  Conn. 

Brown,  Win.  P., 457-463  W.  45th  Street,  New  York. 

Burritt,  George  H., 32  Burling  Slip,          " 

Busch,  Peter, 108  Grand  Street,          " 

Butler,  H.  V., 32  Reade  Street,          " 


8o  THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA. 

Chaffanjon,  Claude, Jersey  City  Heights,  N.  J. 

Chaffee,  O.  S.  &  Son, Mansfield  Centre,  Conn. 

Chapin,  J.   L., 96  Reade  Street,  New  York. 

Cheney,  Frank  W., South  Manchester.    Conn. 

Cheney,  Harry  G., "  " 

Cheney,  Knight  D., "  " 

Cheney,  James  W., "  " 

Cheney,  John  S., "  " 

Cheney,  Richard  O., "  " 

Clapp,  S.  W., 7  Mercer  Street,  New  York. 

Comby,  John, West  Hoboken,   N.  J. 

Copcutt,  Wm.  H.  &  Co., .Yonkers,   N.   Y. 

Cutter,  John  D., Newark,  N.  J. 

Dimock,  Ira, Hartford,  Conn. 

Dunlop,  John, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Eaton,  E.  W., 19  Mercer  Street,   New  York. 

Eldridge,  Henry, 435  Broadway, 

Erskine,  James  M., 52  Greene  Street,  " 

Fogg,  Wm.  H., 32  Burling  Slip, 

Franke,   Louis, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Fukui,  M., Japan. 

Funke,  Hugo, College  Point,  L.  L,   N.   Y. 

Gibbes,  A.  H., 93  Wall  Street,  New  York. 

Grimshaw,  John, , Paterson,  N.  J. 

Griswold  Worsted  Co., Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Hadden  &  Co., 109-1 1 1  Worth  Street,  New  York. 

Hayden,  J.  H.  &  Son, Windsor  Locks,   Conn. 

Hayes,  Thomas  F., 5-9  Union  Square,  New  York. 

Hill,  A.  G., Florence,   Mass. 

Horstmann,  F.  O., Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Huntington,  S.  E., 31  Burling  Slip,  New  York. 

Itschner,  W.  &  Co., Philadelphia,   Pa. 

Jennings,  A.  G., Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Jennings,  W.  P., 473-475  Broome  Street,  New  York. 

Johnson,  Rowland, 54  Beaver  Street,   New  York. 

Jourdeuil  &  Pinckney, West  Hoboken,  N.  J. 

Kai,  Oria, 30  Howard  Street,   New  York. 


THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA.  81 

Lambert,  C, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Lathrop  Bros., Northampton,   Mass. 

Loewenstine,  J.  H., 187   Church  Street,  New  York. 

Loth,  Joseph, 458  Broome  Street, 

Low,  A.  A., 31  Burling  Slip, 

Low,  A.  Augustus, 31       "  "  " 

Low,  Seth, 31       "  " 

Ludwig,  E., 454  Broome  Street, 

Lyman,  Joseph, 31  Burling  Slip,  " 

Meyenberg,  S.  M., Hoboken,   N.  J. 

Milton,  Wm.  F., 159  Maiden  Lane,  New  York. 

Morgenroth,   Gustavus  A.,  Jr., 159        "  "  " 

Morlot,  George, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Murray,  Russell, 52  Greene  Street,  New  York. 

Muzard,  L., 13  Mercer  ^Street,  « 

O'Donoghue,   D., 91   Grand  Street,  " 

Paul,  Frank, Montreal,  Canada. 

Pelgram  &  Meyer, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Plunkett,  Thos.  F., Hartford,  Conn. 

Pomeroy,  S.  W.,  Jr., 59  Wall  Street,  New  York. 

Richardson,  B., 5  Mercer  Street, 

Richardson,  Frank  G., 5  Mercer  Street,  " 

Rossmassler,  Richard, Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Ryle,  John  C., Paterson,  N.  J. 

Ryle,  William  T., 54  Howard  Street,  New  York. 

Seavey,  J.  W.  C.. Canton,  Mass. 

Silbermann,  J.  &  Co., 35  Mercer  Street,  New  York. 

Simes,  Charles  F., 46  Howard  Street,          " 

Simon,  Herman, Town  of  Union,  N.  J. 

Simon,  Robert, "  "          " 

Simonds,  J.  H., Warehouse  Point,  Conn. 

Skinner,  George  B.  &  Co., Yorkers,  N.  Y. 

Skinner,  William, Holyoke,  Mass. 

Skinner,  William  C., 43  Mercer  Street,  New  York. 

Smith,  Benjamin  D., . 113  Water  Street, 

Smith,  L.  Bayard, 77  William  Street, 

Smith,  L.  O., .  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


82  THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA. 

Smith,  S.  K., Pittsfield,  Mass. 

Stearns,  Henry  K., 458  Broome  Street,  New  York. 

Stearns,  John  N., 458        "  " 

Stelle,  Louis  R., Sauquoit  (near  Utica)  N.  Y. 

Stevens,  E.  W., 130  Water  Street,  New  York. 

Strange,  A.  B., 96-98  Prince  Street, 

Strange,  Theodore  A., 96-98 

Strange,  William, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Streuli,  Alfred, 70  Mercer  Street,  New  York. 

Struss,  Henry  W., no  Grand  Street, 

Takahashi,  S.  K.,  (Consul  of  Japan)    7  Warren  Street, 

Tilt,  Albert, Paterson,  N.  J. 

Walker,  John  T., Si  Pine  Street,  New  York. 

Walter,  Richard, 452-458  W.  46th  Street,      " 

Warner,  Luther  J., Northampton,  Mass. 

Westervelt,  E., , 42  Cedar  Street,  New  York. 

Wetmore,  Cryder  &  Co., 73~74  South  Street, 

Wilson,  H.  B., 33-35  Greene  Street, 

Yamao,  K., 24-26  Murray  Street, 

HONORARY  MEMBERS. 

Allen,  Franklin, Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Haywood,  George  M., 39  WThite  Street,  New  York. 

Mackay,  J.  P.,  Secretary, Paterson,  N.   J. 

Ryle,  John, " 

Takaki,  Samro, Yokohama,  Japan. 

Tomita,  Tetsnoski, London,   Eng. 


EGRET  ARY'S     REPORT, 


j 


In  conformity  with  the  by-laws  of  the  Association,  the  Secretary 
has  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report,  prepared  under  direc- 
tion of  the  Board  of  Government,  and  presenting  a  review  for  the 
past  year  of  the  transactions  of  the  Silk  Association  of  America. 

The  most  important  event  of  the  past  year  to  the  manufacturers 
of  the  United  States  is  the  adoption  of  a  measure  by  Congress  which 
gives  promise  of  an  intelligent  investigation  of  the  tariff  by  a  com- 
mission. The  debates  in  Congress  which  preceded  the  passage  of 
this  bill,  brought  out  in  striking  relief  the  wide  variety  of  opinions 
held  on  tariff  subjects  by  our  legislators.  Their  knowledge  on  these 
subjects  was  also  shown  to  be  strikingly  diverse  in  amount  and  worth. 
If  there  had  not  been  during  the  whole  debate,  a  firm  hope  of  the 
final  passage  of  the  bill,  many  of  the  speeches  would  have  excited 
grave  anxiety  among  our  manufacturers,  because  of  the  ignorance 
displayed  respecting  industrial  interests  by  some  of  the  speakers, 
and  the  bitterness  of  their  opposition  to  a  protective  tariff.  Great 
credit  is  due  to  those  members  of  Congress  who  met  such  opponents 
with  invincible  arguments  and  facts.  The  thanks  of  the  silk  man- 
ufacturers are  especially  due  to  Congressman  John  Hill  of  New 
Jersey  for  his  able  presentation  of  the  growth  of  the  silk  industry, 
bringing  together  its  statistics  and  showing  in  sharp  light  the  contrast 


34  THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA. 

between  the  condition  of  its  operatives  here  and  in  Europe. 

Because  of  the  general  hope  that  the  tariff  commission  bill  would 
pass,  there  was  no  disturbance  of  business  such  as  is  usual  during 
the  winter  months  when  Congress  is  in  session  and  the  tariff  is  under 
debate.  Manufacturers  have  had,  however,  quite  sufficient  excite- 
ment in  the  necessity  for  meeting  sharp  competition  in  business, 
both  from  abroad  and  at  home. 

The  imports  of  European  silk  goods  have  been  larger  than  in  any 
preceding  twelve  months  except  the  year  ending  June  3oth  1872,  and 
will  closely  approach  that  extraordinary  amount. 

Although  the  year  has  not  been  marked  by  wide  variations  in  the 
prices  of  raw  silk,  there  have  been  important  changes  in  the  charac- 
ter of  the  supply.  Rumors  of  a  short  crop  both  in  Europe  and  Asia 
produced  a  temporary  rise  in  price  late  in  the  Spring  of  1881,  which 
was  maintained  only  until  the  facts  of  supply  became  more  definitely 
known.  The  advance  of  prices  had  the  most  marked  effect  in  Japan, 
where  it  laid  the  basis  for  an  extensive  speculation. 

Holding  for  the  most  part  their  costly  purchases  for  still  higher 
prices,  the  Japanese  realized  little  profit  from  the  rise.  While  the 
market  was  readjusting  itself  in  the  prospect  of  a  decline  they  most 
unwisely  attempted  a  combination  to  control  the  delivery  to  foreign- 
ers. This  was  met  on  the  part  of  the  foreign  houses  by  an  agree- 
ment not  to  purchase  under  the  proposed  restrictions.  During  the 
dispute  the  raw  silk  trade  of  Japan  remained  stagnant,  and  exports 
were  almost  wholly  confined  to  Japanese  houses.  This  condition 
of  affairs  lasted  through  the  greater  part  of  the  Autumn  months, 
until  a  compromise  was  effected  between  the  contending  parties. 

The  interference  of  the  Japanese  combination,  by  preventing  for- 
eigners from  their  usual  purchases,  undoubtedly  gave  an  impulse 
toward  the  use  of  European  raw  silks  by  our  manufacturers.  This 
tendency  was  greatly  strengthened  by  the  demand  for  a  better  class 
of  goods  in  this  market,  and  by  a  marked  deterioration  in  the  quality 
of  Japanese  raw  silk.  The  so-called  "filature  Japans"  received  dur- 
ing the  past  year  were  inferior  to  anything  of  the  kind  since  silks  of 
that  designation  have  been  in  use  in  this  country.  Complaints  were 
loud,  and  with  good  reason.  Many  of  these  silks  have  been  poor  in 
quality,  irregular  in  size,  and  mixed  in  color.  The  resulting  loss 


THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA. 


RATES  OF  WAGES  IN  SILK  MANUFACTURE  PER  WEEK,  IN  DOLLARS. 


Designation  of  operative. 

Sex. 

Average  per  Uni- 
ted States  census 

1879—1880. 

Recent  in  United 
States  (1882). 

Estimated  average 
in  England.* 

Estimated  average 
in  Germany. 

Estimated  average 
in  France. 

Estimated  average 
in  Italy. 

Hard  silk  winder*  
Hard  silk  doubler  

F. 

F 

$5.25 
5  18 



$2.96 

$1.40 
2  45 



Hard  silk  spinner 

e   s.-] 

$2  IO 

Do  

F 

4  87 

«js      OQ 

2  OO 

I  44 

Hard  silk  twister  

AT 

•2  42 

Do  

F 

5.67 

2  IO 

Soft  silk  winder 

F 

6  35 

8  oo 

2  OO 

Warper  

M 

10  71 

Do 

F 

7  62 

IO  OO 

24O 

Beamerf 

M 

12   II 

Dof   . 

F 

7  72 

Warp  twister 

M 

13  96 

Weaver  on  hand-loomsi 

M 

14  15 

$-2    Q-J 

5  4O 

4  80 

Do 

F 

8  44 

2.72 

3  oo 

2.28 

Weaver  on  power-looms 

M 

II  43 

c.4O 

^.OO 

Do 

F 

7  QJ. 

4^8 

Weaver  of  plain  common  ribbons 

2  7O 

\Veaver  of  better  grade  ribbons 

•3    QO 

Weaver  of  fancy  ribbons  

5.10 

Weaver  of  best  novelty  ribbons  .  . 

*M" 



15.00 





9.60 



Weaver  of  dress-goods 

M 

12  OO 

2  73 

6  oo 

Do  

F 

9.OO 

1.66 

\Veaver  of  plush    &c 

M 

4.07' 

Do 

F 

2.76 

Loom    fixerf   .  .                    .        . 

M 

15.87 

Finisher  f  

M 

13.50 

M 

2-1  71 

12  OO 

M 

14  7C 

1  5  oo 

Q  II 

Do 

jr 

5OO 

3OO 

I  OO 

3  60 

Braid  operative  (machine)§  
Braiderg.  "  
Fringe-maker  
Dver  

M. 
F. 
F. 

M. 

16.00 

5-41 
5.30 

12.77 



7.00 

7.90 
2.32 
1.43 

3-30 

*Lower  figures  are  given  for  wages  of  children  in  England. 
tNot  separately  employed  under  such  designations  in  Europe. 

JHand-looms  are  more  used  than  power-looms  in  Europe;  the  reverse  is  true  here. 
Statistics  from  Europe  do  not  distinguish  the  two  classes. 
SSystems  of  employment  here  and  in  Europe  differ  materially.  % 

The  Secretary  has  the  pleasure  of  announcing  the  publication  of 
his  Report  on  the  Silk  Manufactures  of  the  United  States,  for  the 
United  States  Census  of  1880.  The  number  of  copies  issued  by  the 
Government  Printing  Office  is,  however,  unexpectedly  limited.  He 
takes  this  opportunity  to  express  his  thanks  to  the  members  of  the 
Association  and  to  silk  manufacturers  in  general,  for  the  complete- 
ness of  their  returns  to  the  census  inquiries  of  1880. 

The  removal  of  the  office  of  the  Association  to  44£_Broome  St., 


9°  THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA. 

is  also  a  subject  for  congratulation,  as  the  new  premises  are  well 
adapted  for  the  uses  of  the  Association,  and  will  in  all  respects  be 
found  more  agreeable  and  convenient  than  the  former  quarters. 


The  sorrowful  duty  devolves  upon  the  Secretary  to  record  the 
death  of  six  members  of  the  Association  during  the  past  year,  as 
follows : 

WILLIAM  RYLE,  of  New  York. 
ETHELBERT  M.  Low,  of  NEW  YORK. 
•      WM.  A.  GRISWOLD,  of  Philadelphia. 
J.  JACKSON  SCOTT,  of  Paterson. 
J.  FETTIS,  of  New  York. 
S.  SHIMURA,  of  New  York. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Association  November  icth  1881,  the  follow- 
ing resolutions  were  adopted. 

IN  THE  PROVIDENCE  OF  GOD,  death  has  removed  from  us  our  friend  and  associate, 
MR.  WILLIAM  RYLE,  who  was  one  of  the  founders  of  this  Association,  and  has 
been  ever  since,  and  was  at  the  time  of  his  death,  a  Vice-President  thereof. 

Throughout  the  entire  existence  of  the  Association,  MR.  RYLE  has  taken  a  deep 
interest  in  its  welfare,  giving  it  liberal  and  hearty  support,  and  the  benefit  of  his 
valuable  advic«  and  counsel.  He  was  identified  with  the  Silk  Industry  of  this 
country,  and  took  a  personal  interest  in  a  project  for  a  School  of  Design  and 
Technical  Education,  intended  to  benefit  the  working  classes  and  the  silk  manufact- 
ure in  general;  he  was  eminent  as  a  merchant  of  unblemished  honor  and  integrity, 
and  of  high  public  spirit. 

By  the  death  of  MR.  RYLE,  the  Silk  Association  of  America  has  lost  a  faithful 
and  efficient  Vice-President,  a  wise  counsellor  and  a  trusted  friend. 

The  sincere  sympathies  of  the  Silk  Association  of  America  are  hereby  tendered  to 
the  family  of  MR.  RYLE. 

The  foregoing  report  was  read  accepted  and  ordered  to  be  printed, 
at  the  annual  meeting  of  the  Silk  Association  of  America,  held  at 
446  Broome  Street,  May  i6th,  1882;  and  this  action  was  further 
confirmed  at  a  meeting  of  the  Board  of  Government  held  at  a  sub- 
sequent date  after  the  report  was  in  type. 

WM.  C.  WYCKOFF, 

Secretary. 


THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA.  93 

SILK   MANUFACTURE 

IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

PRODUCTION  OF  FINISHED  GOODS, 

In  the  Calendar  Year  ending  December  31st,  1881. 


Sewing-silk,  Machine  Twist  &c., $7,689,512 

Dress  and  Piece  Goods, 6,832,929 

Tie  Silks  and  Scarfs, 584,666 

Millinery  Silks, 902,592 

Handkerchiefs,   5,012,007 

Ribbons, 6,2 13,804 

Laces, 45°>323 

Braids  and  Bindings, 1,142,454 

Trimmings  &c., 6,399,450 

Mixed  Goods  &c., 729,985 


TOTAL,   35.957,722 


RECAPITULATION. 

Sewings,  Twist  and  Floss  Silk, $  7,689,512 

Broad  Goods, 8,320,187 

Handkerchiefs,  Ribbons  and  Laces, 11,676,134 

Trimmings  and  Small  Goods, 7,541,904 

Mixed  Goods  and  Silk  values  therein,. .  .  729,985 


TOTAL, 35>957,722 


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Animals,  living  

Braids,  plaits,  flats,  laces,  tr 
Clocks  and  Watches,  
Books,  engravings,  prints  & 
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Musical  instruments  &c.,.  .  • 

Hats,  bonnets  and  hoods,  .  . 
Metals,  and  manufactures 

Paints  and  colors,  
Beer,  ale  and  porter,  

Marble,  and  manufactures 
Seeds,  . 

Provisions,  not  otherwise  sp 
Paintings  &c.,  not  by  Amer 

Copper,  and  manufactures 
Corsets  and  corset-cloths,. 
Hair,  and  manufactures  of 

Mats  and  matting  
Vegetables,  not  otherwise  s 

Brass,  and  manufactures  of 
Soap  

Zinc,  and  manufactures  of, 
All  other  dutiable  articles,  . 

TOTALS,  

SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.— CONNECTICUT.  109 

Clercy,  Joseph  A.     Silk  Throwster      Mansfield 

Gardner  &  Pierce.  Machine  Twist  and  Sewing  Silk. 

Mills  at Conantville  and  Willimantic 

Globe  Silk  Works.  Marvin  &  Pardee.  Machine  Twist, 
Sewing,  Floss  and  Embroidery  Silks,  Organzine  and 
Tram.  Factory  and  salesroom,  cor.  State  and  Wall 
Sts' New  Haven 

Hammond  &  Knowlton.  Sewing  Silk,  Machine  and 
Button-hole  Twist.  Salesroom,  524  Broadway,  New 
York.  Mills Putnam 

Hanks,  P.  G.  &  J.  S.     Machine  Twist Gurleyville 

Hartford  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  T.  F.  Plunkett,  Pres- 
ident ;  E.  A.  Freeman,  Secretary  and  Treasurer. 
Tapestry  and  Piece  Goods.  Root  &  Childs,  45 
Leonard  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Mill Tariffville 

Heminway,  M.  &  Son's  Silk  Co.  M.  Heminway,  Presi- 
dent ;  H.  Heminway,  Treasurer.  Sewing  Silk  and 
Machine  Twist,  Embroidery,  Saddlers',  Knitting  and 
Filling  Silks.  Salesrooms,  78  Reade  and  99  Church 
Sts.,  New  York;  14  North  5th  St.,  Phila.  Mills... .  Watertown 

Holland  Manufacturing  Co.  Ira  Dimock,  Manager ;  S. 
L.  Burlingham,  Attorney.  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine 
Twist.  Salesrooms,  H.  Eldridge,  Agent,  435  Broad- 
way, New  York  ;  19  High  St.,  Boston  ;  633  Market 
St.,  Philadelphia.  Mills Willimantic 

Jackson,  F.  L.     Silk  Dyer..., Mansfield  Centre 

Leigh  &  White.     Tram  and  Knitting  Silk New  Haven 

Lauderbach  &  Daggett.  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine 

Twist.  Salesroom,  472  Broadway,  New  York.  Mill.  New  Haven 

Leonard  Silk  Co.  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist.  J. 
H.  Simonds,  President  and  Treasurer,  Warehouse 
Point,  Conn.  Salesrooms,  140  Church  St.,  New 
York ;  41  High  St.,  Boston  ;  414  Arch  St.,  Phila- 
delphia ;  27  German  St.,  Baltimore.  Mills Warehouse  Point 

Macfarlane,  James  S.  Sewing  Silk,  Machine  and  But- 
ton-hole Twists.  Salesroom,  24  Walker  St.,  New 
York.  Mills Mansfield  Centre 

Merrick  and  Conant  Manufacturing  Co.  Sewing  Silk, 
Machine  Twist  and  Spool  Cotton  ;  also  Silk  Throw- 
sters   Easthampton 

Morgan  &  Bottum.     Machine  Twist .    .  South  Coventry 

New  England  Silk  Co..     Capital,  $50,000 Winchester 


no  SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.— CONN.,  ILL. 

New    London    Silk   Weaving  Co.      A.    L.   Washburn, 

Henry  P.  Gray  and  John  Gray,  Corporators New  London 

Osborn,  W.  H.     Silk  Braid Willimantic 

Pardee,  C.  H.,  &  J.  H.  Booth.  Coach  Laces  and  Car- 
riage Trimmings,  9  Wooster  St New  Haven 

Patterson,   Erbacher  &    Co.      Dress    Silks,   Brocades, 

Satins.     Salesroom,  75  Greene  St.,  New  York 

Factory Bridgeport 

Robinson,  L.  P.     Sewing  Silk South  Coventry 

Smith,  E.  B.     Machine  Twist.     Belding  Bros.  &  Co., 

Selling  Agents,  456  Broadway,  New  York.     Mill Gurleyville 

Tunxis  Silk  Co.  Thomas  F.  Pltmkett,  President;  John 
L.  Gray,  Secretary;  A.  L.  Hedden,  Treasurer;  Wm. 

O.  Atwood,  General  Manager Tariffville 

Turner,  P.  W.  &  Son.  Ribbons,  Handkerchiefs,  Gum 
Silk  and  Machine  Twist.  Salesroom,  27  Greene  St., 

New  York.    Mills Turnerville 

Washburn,  Alanson.     Fringe  Silk South  Coventry 

Williams,  William  E.     Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist.      Gurleyville 
Willimantic  Silk  Co.     John  M.  Hall,  President ;  Wm. 

H.  Osborn,  Treasurer.     Hat  Bands  and  Bindings. . .      Willimantic 
Winsted  Silk  Co.     Eugene  Potter,  Manager.     Machine 
and   Button-hole   Twist,  and   Sewing,    Embroidery 
and  Floss  Silks.     Agencies  in  Boston  and  Chicago ..  West  Winsted 

ILLINOIS. 

CHICAGO. 

Aub,  Hackenburg  &  Co.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.)  Sales- 
room   • 152  Fifth  Av. 

Baum  &  Ernst.  Fringes,  Cords,  Tassels,  Gimps.  Fac- 
tory and  salesroom  150-154  Fifth  Av. 

Belding  Bros.  &  Co.  (See  Rockville,  Conn.)  Sales- 
rooms  147-149  Fifth  Av. 

Betts,  Clark  &  Co.     Sewing  Silks Chicago. 

Cutter,  John  D.  &  Co.  (See  Newark,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
room   .127  Fifth  Av. 

Eureka  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Canton,  Mass.) 

Salesroom , 115  Fifth  Av. 

Fiedler,  A.  B.  Dress  Trimmings,  Fringes,  Gimps,  Or- 
naments, Cord  Tassels  and  Buttons.  Factory,  449- 
451  N.  Wells  St.  Salesroom 48  E.  Madison  St. 


SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.— ILL.,  KAS.,  ME.,  MD.  in 

Poster,  G.  F. ,  Son  &  Co.  Cords,  Fringes,  Tassels, 

Society  and  Military  Trimmings.  Office 23  Washington  St. 

Gossage,  Charles  &  Co.  Dress  Trimmings.  Agency, 
cor.  Church  and  Worth  Sts.,  New  York.  Factory 
and  salesroom 108  State  St. 

Heuer  &  Brockschmidt.  Dealers  in  Upholstery  Trim- 
mings    16  Fifth  Av. 

Jacobs,  W.  W.  &  Co.  Fringes,  Tassels,  Cords,  Uphol- 
stery and  Drapery  Trimmings 185-187  Wabash  Av. 

Kursheedt  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  New  York.)  Sales- 
rooms   87-89  Wabash  Av. 

Lipper,  M.  W.  &  Co.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.)  Sales- 
room   144  Wabash  Av. 

Nonotuck  Silk  Co.  (See  Florence ',  Mass.)  Sales- 
room  207-209  Fifth  Av. 

Peters,  M.  Upholstery  Trimmings,  Cords,  Tassels  and 

Fringes . .  •. , 61  Washington  St. 

Skinner,  Win.     (See  Holyoke,  Mass.)     Salesroom 144  Fifth  Av. 

Stevenson,  J.  H.  &  Co.     Fringes  and  Tassels , Chicago. 


KANSAS. 

Boissiere,  E.  V.     Ribbons  and  Dress  Trimmings  ;   also 

Silk  Culture Silkville,  Williamsburgh  P.  O. 


MAINE. 

Downs  &  Adams  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Athol, 

Mass.)  Office Portland 

Haskell  Silk  Co.  James  Haskell,  President  ;  Frank 
Haskell,  Treasurer.  Sewing  Silk,  Machine  Twist, 
Organzine,  Tram,  Fringe  Silk  and  Gros-grain  Dress 
Goods.  E.  A.  Kingman,  Selling  Agent,  36  Lispen- 
ard  St.,  New  York.  Mills Saccarappa 


MARYLAND. 

BALTIMORE. 

Aub,  Hackenburg  &  Co.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa)  Sales- 
room  , 19  Light  St. 

Brainerd  &  Armstrong  Co.  (See  New  London,  Conn) 

Salesroom 35  Sharpe  St. 


H2  SILK   GOODS    DIRECTORY.— MD.,   MASS. 

Carpenter,  John.  Fringes  and  Undertakers'  Trim- 
mings   ' 88  South  Eutaw  St. 

Leonard  Silk  Co.  (See  Warehouse  Point,  Conn.)  Sales- 
room  27  German  St.. 

Munder,  Theophilus.     Upholstery  Trimmings 81  Lexington  St.. 

Sisco  Bros.     Trimmings,  Flags  and  Regalia 50  N.  Charles  St.. 

Stern,  S.  L.  &  Co.  Dress  and  Upholstery  Trimmings, 
Piece  Goods  and  Neckwear.  Office,  101  German 
St.  Factory 43  German  St.. 

Tallerman,  Gustav.     Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings. 

150  Lexington  St.,  cor.  Howard. 

Wells,  Mrs.  F.  M.     Undertakers'  Trimmings 321  Lombard  St 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

BOSTON. 

Abercrombie,  Geo.  N.  Fringes,  Cords,  Tassels,  But- 
tons, etc.  Office  and  Factory 129  Tremont  St, 

Adams,  C.  E.     Dealer  in  Sewing  Silk Boston. 

Barr,  Rider  &  Co.     Dealers  in  Sewing  Silks . .  .21  Summer  St, 

Belding  Bros.  &  Co.  (See  Rockville,  Conn.)  Sales- 
room   105  Summer  SU 

Benedict,  W.  H.  (See  New  Brunswick,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 18  Summer  St. 

Boston  Elastic  Fabric  Co.  (See  Chelsea,  Mass.)  Sales- 
room   175  Devonshire  St. 

Brown,  L.  D.,  &  Son.  (See  Middletown,  Conn.)  Sales- 
room   27  Lincoln  St. 

Burr,  Brown  &  Co.  (See  Hingham,  Mass.)  Sales- 
rooms   163  Devonshire  and  24  Arch  Sts. 

Cutter,  John  D.  &  Co.  (^QQ  Newark,  N.  J.)  Salesroom,  6  Bedford  St. 

Downs  &  Adams.     (See  Athol,  Mass.)     Salesroom.  ..5  Chauncey  St. 

Eureka  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Canton,  Mass.) 

Seavey,  Foster  &  Bowman,  Agents.  Salesroom. .  .40  Summer  St 

Farwell,  Isaac,  Jr.  &  Co.  (See  Watertown,  Mass.) 

Salesroom 92  Arch  St. 

Fiedler,  Moeldner  &  Co.  Dress  and  Cloak  Trim- 
mings. Factory,  Roxbury.  Salesroom 60  Summer  St.. 

French,  A.  W.     Dealer  in  Gum  Silks 19  Summer  St.. 

Glendale  Elastic  Fabric  Co.  (See  Easthampton,  Mass.) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents  10  Milk  St. 

Holland  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Willimantic,  Conn.) 

Salesroom 19  High  St. 


SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.— MASSACHUSETTS.  113 

Hubbard,  Dudley.  Fringes,  Cords,  Tassels  and  But- 
tons   , 22  Winter  St. 

Kelsea,  Joseph  N.  (See  Antrim,  N.  If.)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agent 179  Washington  St. 

Knight,  Geo.  W.    (See  Newtown,  Mass.)    Salesroom.  .28  Lincoln  St. 

Leonard  Silk  Co.  (See  Warehouse  Point^  Conn.)  Sales- 
room  .' 41  High  St. 

Linneman,  C.  A.     Silks,  Fringes  and  Trimmings 28  Chauncy  St. 

Messinger,  V.  J.  &  Co.  Dealers  in  Sewing  Silk  and 

Machine  Twist 23  Dock  Sq. 

Newry,  Joshua  E.     Skein  Silk  Dyer 812  Albany  St.,  Roxbury. 

Nonotuck  Silk  Co.    (See  Florence,  Mass.)    Salesroom.  18  Summer  St. 

Polhaus,  Ernest     Silk  Dyer Jamaica  Plains. 

Schoenfuss,  F.  &  Co.    Fringes,  Buttons  and  Cords .  383  Washington  St. 

Seavey,  Foster  &  Bowman.  (See  Eureka  Manufactur- 
ing Co.,  Canton,  Mass.) 40  Summer  St. 

Streeter  &  Mayhew.  (See  Shclburne  Falls,  Mass) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agent 37  High  St. 

Whitney,  H.  L.     Dealer  in  Sewing  Silk Boston. 

Wilkins,  Thomas  &  Co.    Sewing  Silk  Dealers,  Greene  St.,  nr  Bowdoin 

Ziegler,  Alfred.  Suspender  Web,  Upholstery  Trim- 
mings, Fringes,  Gimps  and  Silk  Ties.  Factory, 
Decatur  Av.,  cor.  of  Pynchon  St.  Salesroom 5  Chauncy  St. 

Ziegler,  Conrad.     Silk  Dyer 54  George  St.,  Roxbury 


MASSSACHUSETTS— (Continued.) 

Belding  Bros.  &  Co.     (See  Rockville,  Conn.)     Mill  . . .  Northampton 
Boston  Elastic  Fabric  Co.     Suspenders,  Garter  Webs,       • 
Frills.     Salesrooms,  175  Devonshire  St.,  Boston,  and 

332  Broadway,  New  York.     Factory Chelsea 

Bottum,  C.  L.     Silk  Dyer Northampton 

Bottum  &  Trescott.     Machine  Twist  and  Sewing  Silk. 

Salesroom,  55  Walker  St.,  New  York.     Mill Springfield 

Burr,  Brown  &  Co.  Fringes,  Gimps,  Cords,  Tassels, 
and  Carriage,  Military  and  Upholstery  Trimmings. 
Salesrooms,  163  Devonshire  and  24  Arch  Sts.,  Bos- 
ton. Factory Hingham 

Downs  &  Adams  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  Henry  W. 
Downs,  President ;  Thomas  H.  Goodspeed,  Athol, 
Mass.,  Treasurer  and  Assistant  Secretary;  J.  A. 


H4  SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.— MASSACHUSETTS. 

Hayden,  Secretary  ;  '  Daniel  E.  Adams,  48  Walker 
St.,  New  York,  General  Sales  Agent.  Sewing  Silk 
and  Machine  Twist.  Offices,  5  Chauncy  St.,  Boston, 
Portland,  Me.,  and  New  York.  Factory Athol 

Eureka  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  J.W.  C.  Seavey,  Presi- 
dent ;  F.  A.  Foster,  Secretary  ;  John  A.  Bowman, 
Treasurer.  Sewing  Silk,  Machine  Twist  and  Em- 
broidery Silks.  Salesrooms,  7  Mercer  St.,  New  York; 
40  Summer  St.,  Boston;  115  Fifth  Av.,  Chicago;  707 
Washington  Av.,  St.  Louis.  Mills Canton 

Farwell,  Isaac,  Jr.,  &  Co.  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine 

Twist.  Salesroom,  92  Arch  St.,  Boston.  Mill Watertown 

Glendale  Elastic  Fabric  Co.  Joseph  W.  Green,  Jr., 
Treasurer.  Elastic  Shoe  Gorings,  Cords,  Braids  and 
Garter  Webs.  Stoddard,  Levering  &  Co.,  10  Milk 
St.,  Boston,  and  8  Thomas  St.,  New  York,  Selling 
Agents.  Factory Easthampton 

Glenwood  Mills.  O.  G.  Webster  and  A.  S.  King. 
Dress  Goods,  Organzine  and  Tram,  and  Machine 
Silks.  C.  G.  Landon  &  Co.,  419-421  Broome  St., 
New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Mills Easthampton 

Gold  Medal  Braid  Co.  H.  A.  Daggett,  President.  Silk 

Fishing  Lines.  Factory Attleborough  Falls 

King,  Albert.     Silk  Dyer Florence 

Knight,  Geo.  W.  Naumkeag  Spool  Silk.  Office,  38 

Lincoln  St.,  Boston.  .  Factory Newtown 

Lathrop  Bros.  Sewing  Silk,  Machine  Twist  and  Fringe 

Silk.  Mills  and  Salesroom Northampton 

Mansfield,  G.  H.  &  Co.     Braided  Fishing  Lines Canton 

Nonotuck  Silk  Co.  Ira  Dimock,  President;  A.  T.  Lilly, 
Treasurer.  Machine  Twist,  Sewing  and  Knitting 
Silks.  Mills  at  Florence  and  Leeds,  Mass.  Sales- 
rooms, 19  Mercer  St.,  New  York;  18  Summer  St., 
Boston;  207-209  Fifth  Av.,  Chicago;  317  North 
Fifth  St.,  St.  Louis  ;  88  West  Third  St.,  Cincinnati, 
and  at  Gloversville,  N.  Y.  Principal  mills Florence 

Skinner,  William  &  Son.  Unquomonk  Silk  Mills.  Sew- 
ing Silk,  Machine  Twist,  Sleeve  Linings,  Serges,  Silk 
and  Mohair  Braids  and  Bindings.  Salesrooms,  508 
Broadway,  New  York,  and  144  Fifth  Av.,  Chicago, 
111.  Mills Holyoke 

Smith  &  Rice.  Sewings,  Machine  Twist  and  Braid. 

Agencies  in  Boston  and  New  York.  Mill Pittsfield 


SILK  GOODS    DIRECTORY.— MASS.,  MO.,  N.   H.,  N.  J.          115 

Streeter  &  Mayhew.  Machine  Twist,  Sewing  Silk 
Fringe,  Tram  and  Organzine.  Agencies,  H.  H. 
Sanderson,  7  Mercer  St.,  N.  Y.,  and  D.  P.  Bedell, 
37  High  St.,  Boston.  Mills Shelburne  Falls 

Warner,  Luther  J.  Sewing  Silk,  Machine  Twist  and 

Embroidery  Silk.  Mills  and  Salesroom Northampton 

Worcester  Silk  Co.  E.  M.  Kennedy,  Proprietor.  Plain 
and  Fancy  Schappe  Gros  grain  Ribbons.  George  R. 
Kennedy,  Agent,  Worcester,  Mass.  Mill Worcester 


MISSOURI. 

Belding  Bros.  &  Co.  (See  Rockville,  Conn}  Salesroom, 
603  Washington  Av 

Eureka  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Canton,  Mass.) 
Salesroom,  707  Washington  Av 

Nonotuck  Silk  Co.  (See  Florence,  Mass.)  Salesrooms, 
317  N.  Fifth  St 

Schacht  &  Bro.     Dress  Trimmings.     326  Market  St. . 


St.  Louis 
St.  Louis 

St.  Louis 
St.  Louis 


NEW   HAMPSHIRE. 

Kelsea,  Joseph  N.  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist. 
Agent,  W.  J.  Baker,  179  Washington  St.,  Boston. 
Mills  and  Salesroom Antrim 

NEW  JERSEY. 

PATERSON. 

Adams,  Robert  &  Co.  Ribbons.  Office,  10  Greene 

St.,  New  York.  Factory,  Hamilton  Mill Mill  St. 

Adams,  R.  &  H.  Ribbons,  Fancy  Silks,  Handkerchiefs, 
Mosquito  Nets,  Crinolines  and  Wiggins.  Salesrooms, 
83  and  85  Greene  St.,  New  York.  Harmony  Mills.  Van  Houten  St. 

Alcock,  Frederick  W.  Dress  Goods,  Handkerchiefs, 
Grenadines,  Tie  Silks.  Whitney  &  Matthews,  85 
Leonard  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Factory, 
Dale  Mill , Railroad  Av. 

American  Braid  Co.  Benj.  Curley  &  Co.  Silk  Watch 

Chains,  etc Paterson 

American  Silk  Finishing  Co.    Silk  Finishers.    Works..    Empire  Mill 


n6  SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.—  PATERSON,  N.  J. 

Anderson,  John  &  Sons.  Handkerchiefs,  Figured 
Dress  Goods,  Ties  and  Scarfs.  Jas.  Talcott,  Agent, 
108  and  110  Franklin  St.,  New  York.  Totowa  Mills  AS  Redwood  St. 

Armitt,  T.  Hand-made  Sewing  Silk,  Fish-lines  and 

Glove  Cord.  Factory Little  Beaver  Mill 

Ashley  &  Bailey.  Tie  Silks,  Dress  Goods  and  Hand- 
kerchiefs. A.  Person,  Harriman  &  Co.,  457-459 
Broome  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Mills  at 
Fort  Plain,  N.  Y.,  and River  St. 

Auer,  C.  B.  Satins  and  Brocades.  Murray  Mill,  Mill 

St.,  and  the  Meyenberg  Mill Ward  St. 

Auerbach  &  Co.  Sewing  Silk  and  Twist.  Salesroom, 

526  Broadway.  New  York.  Mill Paterson 

Baare,  Frederick.     Soft  Silk  Winding 166-iGS  Van  Houten  St. 

Ball,  William.     Handkerchiefs 93  River  St. 

Barnes  &  Peel.  Silk  and  Mohair  Braids,  Cords,  Or- 

ganzine  and  Tram.  Granite  Mill Grand  St. 

Berry,  William.  Dress  Goods,  Handkerchiefs.  O'Blenis  Hall,  Arch  St. 

Booth,  J.  H.  &  Co.  Tram,  Organzine,  Floss  and  Sew- 
ings. Office  with  Wm.  Ryle,  54  Howard  St.,  New 
York.  Mills c cor.  Market  and  Spruce  Sts. 

Bowles,  Robert , 175  Marshall  St. 

Broomhall,  Geo.  L.  Dress  Goods,  Handkerchiefs  and 
Millinery  Silks.  Whitney  &  Matthews,  85  Leonard 
St.,  ]>4ew  York,  Selling  Agents.  Mill Warren  St. 

Bruchet,  Louis.     Handkerchiefs 93  River  St. 

Chapin,  J.  L.  Dress  Goods  and  Handkerchiefs.  Office, 
96  Reade  St.,  New  York.  A.  D.  Juilliard  &  Co.,  66 
Worth  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Factory Paterson 

Colle,  J.     Chenille 360  Main  St. 

Crescent  Manufacturing  Co.  Tram  and  Organzine, 
v  and  Commission  Throwsters.  Peter  Ryle,  Manager. 

Crescent  Mill Rip  Van  Winkle  A  v. 

Crew,  Sons  &  Co.     Dyers  and  Silk  Finishers.     104-106  Railroad  Av. 

Crouchley,  C.  Handkerchiefs  and  Dress  Goods.  Dale 

Mill Railroad  Av. 

Dale,  Frederick  S.  Silk  and  Mohair  Braids  and  Bind- 
ings, and  Commission  Throwster.  Dale  &  Kimball, 
Agents,  419-421  Broadway,  New  York.  Dale  Mill.  Railroad  Av. 

Day,  John.     Handkerchiefs   , . 93  River  St. 

Day,  Joseph.     Ribbons 66  Mechanic  St. 

Dexter,  Lambert  &  Co.  Ribbons,  Dress  Silks,  etc. 
--ter  Mill  and  Lambert  Mill,  Paterson,  N.  J.  ; 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— PATERSOX,  N.  J.  117 

Bellemont  Mill  and  Nelson  Mill,  Hawley,  Pa.  Sales- 
rooms, 33-35  Greene  St.,  New  York.  Principal  Mill 
at  Straight  St Paterson 

Doherty  &  Wadsworth.  Dress  Goods,  Handkerchiefs, 
and  Millinery  Silks.  Selling  Agents,  Megroz,  Por- 
tier,  Grose  &  Co.,  85-87  Grand  St.,  New  York. 
Arkwright  Mill Beach  and  Morton  Sts. 

Dorgeval,  P.     Silk  Looms.     Dale  Mill Railroad  Av, 

Dover  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  Dress  and  Millinery 

Silks  and  Handkerchiefs 9  Fair  St. 

Dunlop,  John.  Union  Silk  Works.  Organzine,  Tram, 
Sewing  Silk,  Machine  Twist,  Saddlers'  and  Embroid- 
ery Silks.  Salesroom,  25  Mercer  St.,  New  York. 
Mill Morton  and  Straight  Sts. 

Dunkerly  &  Co Paterson 

Fletcher,  John  &  Son.     Silk  Plush 106  Straight  St. 

Fletcher,  Joseph.  Commission  Throwster  and  Plush 

Manufacturer « 119  Tyler  St 

Franke,  Louis.  Organzine,  Tram,  Twist,  Fringe  Silk 
and  Braids,  especially  prepared  for  Trimming  Manu- 
facturers. Salesroom,  110  Grand  St ,  New  York. 
Factory cor.  Bridge  and  River  Sts. 

Freeman,  H.  H.  &  Co.  Broad  Silks,  Handkerchiefs 

and  Grenadines.  Mill cor.  Front  and  Rockland  Sts. 

Frost,  George  &  Sons.  Albion  Mill.  Thrown  Silk  ; 

also  Soft  Silk  Winding 36-42  Madison  St. 

Gazzera,  A.     Throwster Haledon 

Gianetti,  G.     Dress  Goods.     Barnet  Mills Railroad  Av. 

Greenwood  Bros.     Commission  Throwsters.    Mill.  .51  Mechanic  St. 

Greenwood,  Sam'l.  Commission  Throwster.  Dale  Mill . .  Railroad  Av. 

Gregson  &  McCulloch.  Spun  Silk.  Philip  Wamsley 
&  Co.,  353  Canal  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents. 
Factories  at  Sloatsburg,  N.  Y.,  and 42  Van  Houten  St. 

Greppo,  Claude.  Silk  Dyer.  Office,  27  Mercer  St., 

New  York.  Works Riverside,  Paterson 

Grimshaw  Bros.  Grimshaw  Mill.  Handkerchiefs, 
Tie  Silks,  Scarfs,  Dress  and  Millinery  Silks.  E. 
Oelbermann  &  Co.,  57-63  Greene  St.,  New  York, 
Selling  Agents.  Mills, Dale  Av.,  Slater  and  Prince. Sts 

Grish,  John.  Broad  Silks,  Handkerchiefs,  Millinery 
and  Dress  Trimmings.  Grosvenor  &  Carpenter, 
54-56  White  St.,  and  James  Talcott,  108-110  Frank- 
lin St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Mill 62  Railroad  Av. 


n8  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— PATERSON,  N.  J. 

Hamil  &  Booth.  Passaic  Silk  Works  and  Hamil  Mill. 
Tram  and  Organzine,  Fringe  Silks,  Millinery  and 
Fancy  Silks  and  Ribbons.  Salesrooms,  96  and  98 
Grand  St.,  New  York.  Office  of  Mills Ward  St.,  Paterson 

Hankin,  Wm.  H.,  Jr.,  &  Co.  Tie  and  Fancy  Silks, 

Handkerchiefs,  Grenadines 22  Fair  St. 

Hawks,  M.  J.  &  Co.  Prussian  Bindings,  Galloons,  etc., 
M.  H.  Chapin,  Agent,  81  Greene  St.,  New  York. 
Hamilton  Mill Mill  St. 

Holmes,  W.  D.     Dress  Goods,  Handkerchiefs,  etc. . .      11|-  Fair  St. 

Hopper,  C.  C.  Dress  Goods  and  Handkerchiefs. 

Watson  Mill Railroad  Av. 

Hopper  &  Scott.     Organzine  and  Tram.     Hope  Mill.  Mill  St. 

Howell  &  Schoals.  Lyons  Silk  Mill.  Dress  Goods, 
Handkerchiefs.  Whitney  &  Matthews,  Selling  Agents, 
85  Leonard  St.,  New  York.  Factory,  Dock  Mill . .  Van  Houten  St. 

Jackson,  James.  Manufacturer  of  Jacquard  Machines, 

Compass  Boards  and  Silk  Machinery. .  .Works,  18-20  Albion  Av. 

Jackson,  Joseph.  Thrown  Silks.  Factory,  Grant  Lo- 
comotive Works Paterson 

Jones,  J.  W.     Dress  Goods.     Handkerchiefs Oak  St. 

Little,  W.  &  Co.  Totowa  Mill.  Dress  Goods  and 
Handkerchiefs.  Whitney  &  Matthews,  Selling 
Agents,  85  Leonard  St.,  New  York.  Mill Kearney  St. 

Lockett,  John.  Handkerchiefs,  -Dress  Goods,  Scarfs 
and  Millinery  Silks.  Whitney  &  Matthews,  Selling 
Agents,  85  Leonard  St.,  New  York.  Dale  Mills Railroad  Av. 

L-ucas,  Samuel.  Dress,  Millinery  and  Tie  Goods,  etc. 

Factory,  Washington  Market  Building , .  Fair  St. 

Mackay,  J.  P.  Dress  and  Millinery  Goods,  Handker- 
chiefs and  Veilings.  Salesroom,  89  Leonard  St., 
New  York.  Mill*. 60-66  Water  St. 

Meding,  C.  E.  Ribbons.  E.  Oelbermann  &  Co., 
57-63  Greene  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents. 
Granite  Mill Paterson 

lUills  (late  Todd  &  Mills).     Plushes,  Velvets,  etc. .  .51  Mechanic  St. 

McAlister,  James  &  Co.  Silk  Throwsters.  Empire 

Mill cor.  Green  and  Jackson  Sts. 

Mende,  Alex.  P.  Silk  Manufacturers'  Supplies,  Machi- 
nery, Dyestuffs  and  Ribbon  Paper 171  Market  St. 

Morlot,  Geo.  Silk  Dyer.  Office,  454  Broome  St., 

New  York.  Works. .  . .  .32d  St.  and  10th  Av.,  Paterson 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.—  PATERSON,  N.  J.  119 

Neuburger  Braid  Co.  L.  &  H.  Neuburger.  Silk 
Braids,  Fancy  Goods,  Bindings  and  Raw  Silk 
Throwing  on  Commission.  Salesrooms,  39  and  41 
Walker  St.,  New  York.  Mills Patersort 

New  Jersey  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  B.  B.  Clark,  Pres- 
ident ;  Wright  Smith,  Superintendent.  Dress  Silks. 
Franklin  Mill Mill  St 

Nightingale  Bros.  Fine -Grades  Handkerchiefs,  Dress 
Goods,  Satins,  Tie  Silks,  Tissues  and  Gauze.  Lewis 
Bros.  &  Co.,  86-88  Worth  St ,  New  York,  Selling 
Agents.  Boudinot  Mill Straight  St.,  Paterson 

Nightingale,  James,  Jr.  Dress  Silks,  Satins,  Rhadames, 
Serges  and  Ottoman  Damasse.  John  Stewart  &  Co,, 
55  Mercer  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Factory, 
Dale  Mill Railroad  Av, 

Paterson  Dyeing  Association.  Pierre  Thonnerieux, 

Manager.  Silk  Dyers.  Works. . , . Mill  St.,  opp.  Ellison 

Pelgram  &  Meyei;  Ribbons  and  Dress  Goods.  Sales- 
rooms, 57-59  Greene  St.,  New  York.  Mills  at  Boon- 
ton,  N.  J.,  and  cor.  Temple  and  Matlock  Sts Paterson 

Pfeffer  &  Wels.     Spun  Silk.     Pope's  Mill Patersoa 

Phoenix  Manufacturing  Co.  Albert  Tilt,  President 
and  Treasurer ;  John  R.  Curran,  Secretary.  Hand- 
kerchiefs, Brocades,  Dress  Goods,  Fancy  Ribbons 
and  Ties.  Greeff  &  Co.,  20-26  Greene  St.,  New 
York,  Selling  Agents.  Mills  at  Paterson,  N.  J.,  and 
Allentown,  Pa.  Principal  mill,  Phoenix  Mill,  Van 
Houten  St Paterson 

Pioneer  Silk  Co.  John  Ryle,  President.  Tram,  Organ- 

zine  and  Ribbons.  Murray  Mills Mill  St. 

Pocachard,  A.  Dress  Silks  and  Novelties.  Charles 
G.  Landon  &  Co.,  419-421  Broome  St.,  New  York, 
Selling  Agents.  Factory,  173-177  Market  St. .....  Paterson, 

Riley,  Edward.     Silk  Dyer Murray  Mill,  Mill  St. 

Rogers,  James  H.     Handkerchiefs  and  Dress  Goods..        78  Mill  St. 

Ryle,  John  C.  &  Co.  Commission  Silk  Throwsters. 

Central  Silk  Mill Ellison  St- 

See  &  Sheehan.  Silk  Dyers.  Office,  96  Grand  St., 

New  York.  Works Ellison  St.,  Paterson 

Sherratt  Thomas.    Dress  Goods  and  Handkerchiefs. 60  Railroad  Av. 

Singleton,  George.  Tram,  Organzine,  Sewing  Silk  and 

Machine  Twist.  Watson  Mill Railroad  Av.. 


120  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— PATERSON,  N.  J. 

'Smith,  Wright.  Ribbons  and  Umbrella  Silks.  Union 

Manufacturing  Co River  St. 

Southworth  Bros.  Dress  Goods  and  Handkerchiefs. 
Ammidown,  Lane  &  Co.,  87-89  Leonard  St.,  New 
York,  Selling  Agents.  Mills,  Morton  St Paterson 

Spantor  &  Palmer.    Throwsters Watson  Mill 

Strange,  William  &  Co.  Silk  Goods,  Ribbons,  Milli- 
nery and  Dress  Silks,  Tram  and  Organzine.  Sales- 
rooms, Strange  &  Bro.,  96-98  Prince  St.,  New  York. 
Mills,  Essex  and  Paterson  Sts Paterson 

Straub,  William.  Silk  Designing  and  Card  Cutting. 

Office. 34  Hamburgh  Av. 

Thorpe,  Samuel.     Commission  Throwster Granite  Mill 

Todd  &  Mills.     Silk  Plushes  and  Velvets 51  Mechanic  St. 

Townsend,  Thomas.  Handkerchiefs  and  Dress  Gcods. 

Barnet  Mill Railroad  Av. 

Urbahn,  A.     Ribbons \ 93  River  St. 

Vacher,  Jerome.     Dress  Silks „.  . .     93  River  St. 

Walthall,  James  &  Son.  Floss  and  Embroidery  Silks, 
Tram,  Sewing  Silk,  Machine  Twist  and  Saddlers' 
Heavy  Canton  Twist 93  River  St. 

Weidmann,  J.  Silk  Dyer.  Office,  298  Canal  St.,  New 

York.  Works cor.  Ellison  and  Paterson  Sts. 

Whitehead  Bros.  Handkerchiefs  and  Dress  Goods. 
C.  G.  Landon  &  Co.,  419-421  Broome  St.,  New  York, 
Selling  Agents.  Mill Railroad  Av.,  Paterson 

Whiteside,  James  &  Co.  Paul  Crawford,  Superintend- 
ent. Handkerchiefs,  Scarfs  and  Dress  Goods.  Gros- 
venor  &  Carpenter,  54-56  White  St.,  New  York, 
Selling  Agents Dale  Mill,  Railroad  Av. 

Winfield  Manufacturing  Co.  Silk  and  Mohair  Braids, 
Prussian  Bindings,  Galloons  and  Coat  Hangers. 
John  Stewart  &  Co.,  55  Mercer  St.,  New  York, 
Selling  Agents.  Weaverton  Mill.  .18th  St.  and  12th  Av.,  Paterson 


NEW   JERSEY— (Continued). 

Alexander,  W.  A.    Silk  Dyer.    Near  Warren  St.,  Jersey  City  Heights 
Bannigan,   P.   &  I.      Tram,  Organzine,   Fringe   Silks, 
Ribbons  and   Satin  Dress  Goods.      Salesroom,   68 

Greene  St.,  New  York.     Mill Lake  View 

Benedict,  W.  H.    Laces,   Hair   Nets   and   Mitts.     Of- 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  JERSEY.  121 

fice,  383  Broadway,  New  York.    M.  Drost,  18  Summer 

St.,  Boston,  Selling  Agent.  Factory  and  Salesroom .  New  Brunswick 

Borelli,  Joseph.     Silk  Dyer.     Tonelle  Av Jersey  City  Heights 

Chaffanjon,  C.  "  Favorite  "  Silk  Manufactory.  Black 
Gros-grain,  Faille,  Serges  and  Satin  de  Chine.  Wil- 
merding,  Hoguet  &  Co.,  64-66  White  St.,  New  York, 

Selling  Agents.     Mills,  177-189  South  St Jersey  City  Heights 

Chapperon,  Louis.  Dress  Goods.  Luckemeyer  & 
Schefer,  472  Broome  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agent* 

Mill Town  of  Union 

Clifton  Silk  Mills.  F.  Grossenbacher,  Manager.  Broad 
Goods  and  Jacquard  Silks.  James  McCreery  &  Co., 
803  Broadway,  New  York,  Selling  Agents.  Mills..  Clifton 

Clyde,  E.  H.    -Machine  Twist.     22  Mechanic  St Newark 

Comby,  John.  Black  and  Colored  Gros-grains.  Sales- 
room, C.  Passavant  &  Co.,  Agents,  222  Church  St., 

New  York.    Mills,  West  St.  and  Paterson  Av., West  Hoboken 

Cutter,  John  D.  &  Co.  Sewing  Silks,  Machine  Twist, 
Gros-grain  Dress  Goods,  Serges,  Satin  de  Chine,  and 
Sewing  Silk  Braids.  Salesrooms,  329-331  Broadway, 
New  York ;  6  Bedford  St.,  Boston  ;  735  Market  St., 
Philadelphia  ;  127  Fifth  Av.,  Chicago,  and  26  New 
Montgomery  St.,  San  Francisco.  Newark  City  Silk  Mills . .  Newark 
Ehler,  A.  &  B.  Progress  Mills.  Dress  Goods,  Serges, 

Satin  de  Chine. .  .. 564-566  Palisade  Av.,  Jersey  City  Heights 

Englewood  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.     Throwsters Englewood 

Erskine,  John  &  Co.    Ribbons.    Salesroom,  52  Greene 

St.,  New  York.     Factory .' Union  Hill 

ield,  Morris,  Church  &  Co.  Plain,  Black  and  Colored 
Silks.  Salesrooms,  74  Leonard  St.,  New  York.  Fac- 
tory  cor.  of  Columbia  and  Lincoln  Sts.,  Jersey  City  Heights 

Gelan,  C.     Rhadames  and  Ottoman  Silks Union  Hill 

Givernaud  Bros.  Black  and  Colored  Dress  Silks, 
Serges,  Satin  de  Lyon,  Damasses,  Satins  and  Ar- 
mures.  Office,  46  Howard  St.,  New  York.  Mills, 

West  Hoboken,  Homestead  and  Hackensack 

Hemburg,  William.     Silk  Dyer Midland  Park 

Hulsemann,    John    F.      Essex   Silk  Mills.      Machine 

Twist.    20-22  Mechanic  St Newark 

Jourdeuil  &  Pinkney.  Dress  Silks,  Serges  and  Satin 
de  Chine.  Salesroom,  123  Mercer  St.,  New  York. 
Mills,  West  St.  and  Paterson  Av West  Hoboken 


122  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  JERSEY. 

Kamp,  M.  &  C.    Dress  Goods.    Post-office,  Weehawken. 

Concordia  Mill,  19-24  Bloom  St Town  of  Union 

Kluessner,  Andrew.     Steam  Silk  Works West  Hoboken 

Laubsch,  Charles.  Brocades,  Plain  Dress  Goods  and 
Neck-wear  Silks.  Post-office,  Weehawken.  Factory, 

corner  of  Palisade  Av.  and  Columbia  St Union  Hill 

Meyenberg,  S.  M.  Millinery,  Dress  and  Tie  Silks, 
Scarfs,  Ribbons,  etc.  Salesroom,  461  Broome  St., 

New  York.     Factory Hoboken 

Pages,  J.  B.     Silk  Dyer.     99-101  Adams  St Hoboken 

Pelgram  &  Meyer.     Paterson,  N.  J.     Mill  at Boonton 

Perks,  George  A.  &  Co.  Upholstery  Trimmings.  Sales- 
rooms, 39-41  North  3d  St.,  Philadelphia,  Mill Camden 

Phalanx  Silk  Weaving  Co.  F.  Traenkle,  President ; 
J.  C.  Schlachter,  Secretary  ;  J.  R.  Waters,  Treas- 
urer ;  A.  Teste,  Superintendent.  Dress  Silks.  Me- 
groz,  Portier,  Grose  &  Co.,  85-87  Grand  St.,  New 

York,  Selling  Agents.     Factory West  Hoboken 

Phipps  &  Train.     Spun  Silk,  Silk   Noils,  Noil  Yarn. 

Salesroom,  73  Leonard  St.,  New  York.     Factory. .  .        Lakewood 
Poidebard    Silk    Manufacturing   Co.       A.    Poidebard, 
President ;    G.    Bierwirth,    Treasurer ;    P.    Ulrich, 
Secretary.      Capital,    $75,000.      Silk   Dress   Goods. 
F.  Victor  &  Achelis,  66-72  Leonard  St.,  New  York, 

Selling  Agents.     Factory North  Bergen 

Ratti,  Joseph.  Commission  Silk  Throwster.  Th. 
Cornu  &  H.  Saillet,  49  Lispenard  St.,  New  York, 

Selling  Agents.      Mill West  Hoboken 

Rittenhouse  Manufacturing  Co.     Tapestries Passaic 

Simon,  Herman.  Dress  Goods  and  Fancy  Silks.  E. 
Oelbermann  &  Co.,  57-63  Greene  St.,  New  York, 
Selling  Agents.  Post-office,  Weehawken.  Factories, 

Easton,  Pa. ,  and  Garden  and  Morgan  Sts Town  of  Union 

Singleton  Manufacturing  Co Dover 

Sonntag,  H.    Dress  Trimmings,  219  Congress  St.,  Jersey  City  Heights 
Spangenberg,  C.,  Jr.     Upholstery  Trimmings.      Fac- 
tory and  Salesroom,  221  Park  Av Hoboken 

Wortendyke  Manufacturing  Co.  C.  A.  Wortendyke, 
President  and  Treasurer.  Tram,  Organzine,  Dress 
Goods  and  Handkerchiefs.  Ammidown,  Lane  & 
Co.,  87-89  Leonard  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents. 
Brick  Mill Wortendyke 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY.  123 

NEW  YORK   CITY. 

Ackerman,  W.  C.     Upholstery  Trimmings 233  Sixth  Av. 

Adams,  R.  &  Co.     (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)    Salesroom . .  10  Greene  St. 

Adams,  R.  &  H.    (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)    Salesroom,  83-85  Greei  e  St. 

Alcock,  F.  W.  (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)  Salesroom  of 

Selling  Agents . . , 85  Leonard  St. 

Anderson,  John  &  Sons.  (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agent 108-110  Franklin  St. 

Ashley  &  Bailey.  (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)  Salesrooms 

of  Selling  Agents • 457-459  Broome  St. 

American  Silk  Label  Manufacturing  Co.  George  Hey, 
Manager.  Silk  Labels  and  Coat  Hangers.  Agen- 
cies at  Boston,  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  Philadelphia 
and  St.  Louis.  Salesroom  and  Factory 389  Broome  St. 

Aub,  Hackenburg  &  Co.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.)  Sales- 
room   526  Broadway 

Auerbach  &  Co.     (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)     Salesroom,  526  Broadway 

Bannigan,  P.  &  I.    (See  Lake  View,  N.  J.)    Salesroom,  68  Greene  St. 

Barnard,  O.  H.  Undertakers'  Trimmings.  Factory 

and  Salesroom 511-513  West  30th  St. 

Beierstedt,  Carl.     Upholstery  Trimmings 138  Canal  St. 

Belding  Bros.  &  Co.  (See  Rockville,  Conn.)   Salesroom,  456  Broadway 

Bernstein,  A.     Millinery  and  Dress  Trimmings.  .1680  Lexington  Av. 

Bernstein,  Samuel.    Fringes,  Dress  Trimmings,  etc..  .91  Bleecker  St. 

Bernstein  &  Co.     Cords,  Tassels  and  Specialties 133  Mercer  St. 

Bertschy,  Samuel.     Ribbons  and  Novelties 625  Tenth  Av. 

Betts,  Jacob.     Silk  Braids 519  West  45th  St. 

Blau,  Max.     Dress,  Cloak  and  Fur  Trimmings 51  Greene  St. 

Bodmer,  Edward.     Silk  Dyer 404  West  50th  St. 

Boesen,  Pauline.     Fringes  and  Passementerie 29  Mercer  St. 

Boettger,  Hinze  &  Kueppers.  Finishing  of  Broad  Silks 

and  Satins 47  Mercer  St. 

Bomann,  Joseph.     (See  Brooklyn.)     Office 8  Greene  St. 

Booth,  J.  H.  &  Co.    (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)    Salesroom,  54  Howard  St. 

Boston  Elastic  Fabric  Co.  (See  Chelsea,  Mass.)  Sales- 
room   332  Broadway 

Bottum  &  Trescott.   (See  Springfield,  Mass.)  Salesroom,  55  Walker  St. 

Brainerd  &  Armstrong  Co.  (See  New  London,  Conn.) 

Salesroom 469  Broadway 

Bromly,  J.  &  Son.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agent 317  Broadway 

Broomhall,  Geo.  L.  (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agents 85  Leonard  St. 


124  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Brown,  Edward  G.     Upholstery  Trimmings 787-789  Broadway 

Brown,  George  W.     Dress  Trimmings 403  Broadway 

Brown,  L.  D.  &  Son.  (See  Middletown,  Conn.}  Sales- 
room  439  Broadway 

Brown,  William  P.  Ribbons.  Iselin,  Neeser  &  Co., 

Selling  Agents,  339  Canal  St.  Mill 457-4C3  West  45th  St. 

Buschmann,  C.  H.  Fringes,  Dress  Trimmings,  Cords 

and  Tassels 36  East  14th  St. 

Butler,  H.  V.,  Jr.,  &  Co.  Silk  Ribbon  Paper.  Gen- 
eral Agents  for  the  Ivanhoe* Manufacturing  Co. .  .*. .  32  Reade  St. 

Camp,  John  T.  &  Co.  Trimmings,  Fringes,  Cords  and 

Tassels.  Factory  and  Salesroom 19  Mercer  St. 

ChafTanjon,  C.  (See  Jersey  City  Heights,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 64-66  White  St. 

Chapperon,  Louis.  (See  Town  of  Union,  N.  J.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 472  Broome  St. 

Chapin,  J.  L.     (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)     Office . .    96  Reade  St. 

Cheney  Bros.  (See  South  Manchester,  Conn.)  Sales- 
rooms   477-481  Broome  St. 

City  Button  Works.  Erlanger  &  Liebman,  Proprie- 
tors. Silk  and  Crochet  Buttons.  Factory,  116 
Walker  St.  Office 238  Canal  St. 

Clark,  R.  S.  (See  Mount  Carmel,  Conn)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agent 327  Broadway 

Clifton  Silk  Mills.  (See  Clifton,  N.  /.)  Salesroom  of 

Selling  Agents 803  Broadway 

Collet,  A.  &  Co.     Upholstery  Trimmings 900  Broadway 

Comby,  John.  (See  West  Hoboken,  N.  J)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agents 222  Church  St. 

Copcutt,  William  H.  &  Co.  (See  Yonkers,  N.  Y.) 

Salesrooms  of  Selling  Agents 457-459  Broome  St. 

Crosley,  C.  W.     Cloak  and  Dress  Trimmings 920  Broadway 

Cutter,  John  D.  &  Co.  (See  Newark,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
rooms   329-331  Broadway 

Dale,  Frederick  S.  (See  Paterson,  IV.  J)  Salesrooms 

of  Selling  Agents .  .419-421  Broadway 

Dalton,  Joseph.  Hair  Nets,  Laces  and  Canvas. 

Agencies  at  Boston  and  Chicago.  Factory.  .108-110  Wooster  St. 

Dean,  Henry.    Fringes  and  Furniture  Trimmings,  54-60  West  16th  St. 

Deppeler  &  Kammerer.   Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings.  108  Grand  St. 

Dexter,  Lambert  &  Co.  (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
rooms .  .  . .  33-35  Greene  St. 


SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY.  125 

Dietzel  &  Green.  Millinery  and  Fancy  Trimmings. 
Factory,  308  Broome  St.,  New  York.  Agency,  28 
Rue  de  Trevise,  Paris.  Salesroom  (about  to  move 
from) 534  Broadway 

Doherty  &  Wadsworth.  (See  Pater  son,  aV.  /.)  Sales- 
rooms of  Selling  Agents 85-87  Grand  St. 

Downs  &  Adams.     (See  Athol,  Mass.)     Salesroom...  .48  Walker  St. 

Dreyfus  Bros.  Fringes,  Upholstery  Trimmings  and 

Passementerie.  Factory  and  Salesroom 52  Lispenard  St. 

Dreyfus  &  Hecht.     Dress  Trimmings 107  Greene  St. 

Dunlop,  John.     (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)     Salesroom.,.  .25  Mercer  St. 

Eicke,  Edward.     Military  and  Schutzen  Trimmings.  ..157  Canal  St. 

Ellison,  Adolph  S.  Fringes,  Passementerie,  Cords, 

Tassels,  Chenille,  Buttons  and  Novelties 103-105  Gieene  St. 

Elwood,  B.  H.  &  Co.  (See  Fort  Plain,  N".  Y.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 55  Mercer  St. 

Ennis,  Geo.  W.  &  Co.  (Philadelphia,  Pa)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 64-66  White  St. 

Erskine,  John  &  Co.  (See  Union  Hill,  N.  J.)  Sales- 
room   52  Greene  St. 

Eschbach,  S.  &  Son.     Silk  Dyer 348  West  44th  St. 

Eureka  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Canton,  Mass.) 

Salesroom 7  Mercer  St. 

Fessler,  Henry.  Cigar  Ribbons,  Galloons  and  Prussian 

Bindings 343-345  West  37th  St. 

Field,  Morris,  Church  &  Co.  (See  Jersey  City  Heights, 

N.  J.)  Salesroom 74  Leonard  St. 

Fisher,  C.     Dress  Trimmings 8  Howard  St. 

Fisher,  M.     Dress  Trimmings 471  Broadway 

Franke,  Louis.     (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)     Salesroom. .  .110  Grand  St. 

Friend,  Hermann.     Trimmings  and  Passementerie. .  .  .98  Greene  St. 

Funke,  Hugo.  (See  College  Point,  L.  /.,  N.  Y.)  Sales- 
rooms   23-25  Greene  St. 

Gartner  &  Friederiheit.     Ribbons ,    89  Grand  St. 

Gehlert,  Edward.  Fringes,  Dress  Trimmings  and  Pas- 
sementerie  -2327  Fourth  Av. 

Givernaud  Bros.     (See  Hoboken,  N.  J.)    Salesroom.  .46  Howard  St. 

Glendale  Elastic  Fabric  Co.  (See  Easthampton,  Mass.) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents ,  8  Thomas  St. 

Glenwood  Mills.  (See  Easthampton,  Mass.)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agents 419-421  Broome  St. 

Glockmann,  J.  L.     Gimps  and  Fringes 21  Wooster  St. 


126  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Gminder,  Frederic  &  Co.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trim- 
mings. Agencies  in  Philadelphia  and  Chicago. 
Factory,  10th  Av.  and  45th  St.  Salesroom 66  Greene  St. 

Godshalk,  E.  H.     (See  Philadelphia,  Pa}  Salesroom.  323  Broadway 

Goodman,  B.     Silk  Webbing 7  White  St. 

Gossage,  Charles  &  Co.  (See  Chicago,  III}  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agents cor.  Church  and  Worth  Sts. 

Graf,  Jacob.     Embroidery  by  Hand  and  Machine.  ..215  Church  St. 

Graham,  John  &  Son.  Upholstery  and  Undertakers' 

Trimmings.  Factory  and  Salesroom 516-524  W.  35th  St. 

Greenbaum,  Louis  &  Son.  New  York  Cord  and  Tassel 

Mill.  Curtain  Cords  and  Tassels 65-67  Duane  St. 

Gregson  &  McCulloch.  (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 353  Canal  St. 

Greppo,  Claude.     (See  Paterson,  N.  /. )     Office .....  27  Mercer  St. 

Grimshaw  Bros.  (See  Paterson,  JV.  J}  Salesrooms 

of  Selling  Agents 57-63  Greene  St. 

Grish,  John.  (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)  Salesroom  of 

Selling  Agents 54-56  White  and  108-110  Franklin  Sts. 

Grollimund,  J.     Cigar  Ribbons cor.  19th  St.  and  llth  Av. 

Gross,  Caspar.     Dress  Trimmings 523  West  45th  St. 

Hafelfinger,  Fritz.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings,  343-345  W.  37th  St. 

Hafelfinger,  Jacob.    Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings.  .444  W.  38th  St. 

Hafelfinger,  John.     Dress  Trimmings 462  10th  Av. 

Hahn  &  Jaragzewski.  Dress  Trimmings,  Cords  and 

Tassels 54  Lispenard  St. 

Hall,  Thomas  R.     Silk  and  Cotton  Elastic  Bandages.  .211  E.  22d  St. 

Hamil  &  Booth.    (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)    Salesrooms .  96-98  Grand  St. 

Hammond  &  Knowlton.  (See  Putnam,  Conn.)  Sales- 
room   ,  •  • 524  Broadway 

Haraux  &  Co.     European  Embroidering  Co. . .  .146-148  Wooster  St. 

Harris  &  Klein.  Dress,  Cloak  and  Millinery  Trim- 
mings and  Hat  Cords 604  Broadway 

Hartford  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Tariffville, 

Conn}  Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents 45  Leonard  St. 

Haskell  Silk  Co.  (See  Saccarappa,  Me}  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agents 36  Lispenard  St. 

Haubner,  L.  D.    Upholstery  Trimmings 153  West  46th  St. 

Hawks,  M.  J.  &  Co.  (See  Paterson,  N.  J}  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agent 81  Greene  St. 

Hayes,  Thomas  F.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings. 

Factory  and  Salesroom 5  to  9  Union  Square 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY.  127 

Heineman,  Jacob.  Dress  Trimmings 650  Broadway 

Heidenreich,  John.  Silk  Dyer 543-545  Tenth  Av. 

Heminway,  M.  &  Sons,  Silk  Co.  (See  Watertown, 

Conn.)  Salesrooms 78  Reade  St.  and  99  Church  St. 

Hentze,  Marcus.  Upholstery  Trimmings  &  Fringes. 7  Washington  PI. 
Hertlein  &  Schlatter.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings. 

Factory  and  Office 26  Greene  St. 

Hess,  Isaac.  Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings,  Fringes, 

Cords  and  Tassels 5  Howard  St. 

Hirsch,  Isaac.  Dress  Trimmings  and  Silk  Fringes . .  7  Washington  PI. 
Hirsh,  M.  &  Son.  Dress  Trimmings  &  Passementerie,  420  Broome  St. 
Hofmann  &  Ellrodt.  Millinery,  Trimmings,  Braids, 

Cords  and  Tassels .% 91  Mercer  St. 

Holland  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Willimanticy  Conn.) 

Salesrooms 435  Broadway. 

Horn,  Henriette.  Ribbons 445-447  West  42d  St. 

Horstmann,  Wm.  H.  &  Sons.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.) 

Salesroom 106  Grand  St. 

Howard,  E.  &  S.  Silk  Veiling 511  West  42d  St. 

Howard,  George.  Millinery  Silks 404  West  33d  St. 

Howell  &  Schoals.  (See  Pater  son,  N.  J.)  Salesrooms.  85  Leonard  St. 
Itschner,  (Werner)  &  Co.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.) 

Salesroom 70  Mercer  St. 

Jennings,  A.  G.  (See  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.)  Salesroom,  473-475  Broome  St. 
Jourdeuil  &  Pinkney.  (See  West  Hoboken,  N.  J.) 

Salesroom , 123  Mercer  St. 

Judson,  Charles.  Webs  and  Suspenders 73  Leonard  St. 

Kammerer  &  Bockstoever.  Fringes,  Dress  Trimmings, 

Cords  and  Tassels Ill  Greene  St. 

Kelty,  G.  L.  &  Co.  (See  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.)  Salesroom . .  831  Broadway 

Kimball,  W.  E.  Silk  Spooling  and  Winding 168  Centre  St. 

Klotz,  Herman.  Silk  and  Half-Silk  Coat  Hangers.  .22  Eldridge  St. 
Krause  &  Karbach.  Embossers  and  Printers  on  Silks, 

Velvets  and  Plushes  ;  also  Ribbon  Watering 138  Wooster  St. 

Krumsick,  Rudolph.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings. 29  Howard  St. 

Kunz,  Samuel.  Ribbons 413  East  25th  St. 

Kursheedt  Manufacturing  Co.  Laces,  Embroideries, 

Quiltings,  Trimmings,  etc.  Salesrooms,  69-71  Greene 

St.,  New  York,  and  87-89  Wabash  Av.,  Chicago,  Ills. 

Factories,   South  5th  Av.,  Thompson  St.  and  West 

19th    St,  New   York.     Counting  Room,  Order    and 

Shipping  Departments 194  South  5th  Av. 


128  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Langlotz,  Louis.    Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings. 441-443  West  42d  St. 
Lauderbach  &    Daggett.       (See   New   Haven,    Conn.} 

Salesroom ....    !.  472  Broadway 

Laurent,  Eugene.     Needle-wrought  Silk  Buttons. 225  East  125th  St. 
Leiter,  I.  H.    Upholstery  Trimmings  and  Gimps.  .210-212  Canal  St. 

Leonard  Silk  Co.    (See  Warehouse  Point,  Conn.}    Sales- 
room     140  Church  St. 

Leschhorn,  F.  &  Co.      Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings, 
»  Cords,  Tassels,  Chenilles  and  Buttons 21  Howard  St. 

Liebermuth,  A.  &  Co.    Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings.. 69  Mercer  St. 

Lindenthal  Bros.    Upholstery  and  Drapery  Trimmings. 

Agency,  Boston.     Factory  and  Office 739-741  Broadway. 

Lipper,  M.  W.  &  Co.    (See  Philadelphia^    Salesroom . .  77  Franklin  S* 

Lips,  Joseph.     Lyons  and  Crefelder  Silk  Refinishing 

Establishment 1 41  West  Broadway  : 

Little,  WTilliam  &  Co.  (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 85  Leonard  St. 

Lobenstein,  S.     Upholstery  Trimmings 38  East  14th  St. 

Lockett,  John.     (See  Paterson,  N.  y.)     Salesroom  of 

Selling  Agents 85  Leonard  St. 

Loewenstine  &  Kayser.  (See  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.)  Sales- 
room  187  Church  St. 

Loth,  Joseph  &  Co.    Fine  Silk  Ribbons.    Factory,  517 

to  523  West  45th  St.     Salesroom 458  Broome  St. 

Lowenstein,  J.  &  Co.  Fringes,  Cords  and  Passementerie,  85  Walker  St. 

Macfarlane,  James  S.     (See  Mansfield  Centre,   Conn.}  t 

Salesroom 24  Walker  St. 

Mackay,  J.'  P.     (See  Paterson,  JV.  /.)     Salesroom. .  .89  Leonard  St. 

Matter,  John.     Silk  Dyer   '. 333  West  44th  St. 

Ma-idhof,  J.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings,  Cords,  Tas- 
sels and  Chenille  Fringes.  Agencies,  Philadelphia, 
Chicago  and  San  Francisco.  Factory  and  Salesroom,  401  Broadway 

Mandel,  Henry.     Dress  Trimmings,  Braids,  Cords  and 

Molds 114  Centre  St. 

Martin,  Charles  N.     Sewing  Silk  and  Twist 350  Canal  St. 

Maul,  Hugo  &  Co.     Dress  Trimmings 718-720  Broadway 

McNaught  &  Co.     Glasgow  Printing  Co.     Printing  on 

Silks,  etc 107  Walker  St. 

Meding,  E.  (See  Paterson^  N.  J.}  Salesroom  of  Sell- 
ing Agents 57-G3  Greene  St. 

Menges,  A.     Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings 644-G4G  Broadway 

Meyenberg,  S.  M.    (See  Hoboken,  N.  J.}    Salesroom.. 4G1  Broome  St. 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY.  129 

Meyer,  G.  L.  &:  Co.     Upholstery  Trimmings 424  Broome  St. 

Moeller,  Frederick.     Yarns 428  Brconie  St. 

Morlot,  George.     (See  Pater  son,  N.  J.)     Office .454  Broome  St. 

Morrison,  James.     Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings 28  Howard  St. 

Muller,  Ernst.     Millinery  Trimmings. 127  Grand  St. 

Murray,  Russell.     Dealer  in  Organzine  and 'Tram,  and 

English  and  Domestic  Cotton  Yarns 52  Greene  St. 

National  Suspender  Co 447-453  West  26th  St. 

Neuburger  Braid  Co.     (See  Pater  son,  N.  J.)     Sales 

rooms 39-41  Walker  St. 

Neustaedter,  William.    Dealer  in  Tram,  Organzine  and 

Spun  Silk 83  Mercer  St. 

New,  Jacob.    Ribbons.    Factories,  529-533  West  54th, 

and  522-526  West  55th  Sts.     Salesrooms 109-113  Grand  St. 

New  York  Woven  Label  Manufacturing  Co.  Wm.  Fried- 
hof,  Woven  Silk  Labels,  Hangers  and  Badges.  Fac- 
tory and  Office 52  Mercer  St. 

Nightingale  Bros.     (See '  Pater  son,  N.  J.)     Office 339  Broadway 

Nightingale,  James,  Jr.  (See  Pater  son,  N.  J.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 55  Mercer  St. 

Nonotuck  Silk  Co.    (See  Florence,  Mass.)    Salesroom,  19  Mercer  St. 

Nordheim  &  Deimel.     Upholstery  Trimmings 734  Broadway 

Novelty  Silk  Works.      Klous  &  Co.      Silk  Novelties. 

Factory,  445-447  West  42d  St.     Salesroom . .  .113  Mercer  St. 

O'Brien,  Maurice.      Worsted,  Worsted  and   Silk,  and 

Silk  Upholstery  Trimmings 90-92  Bowery 

Oneida  Community.    (See  Community,  IV.  Y.)    Thomas 

Handy,  Agent.     Salesroom 53- Walker  St. 

Paine,  Byrne  &  Co.    Lace  Dyeing  and  Ribbon  Watering,  9  Walker  St. 

Patterson,  Erbacher  &  Co.       (See  Bridgeport,  Conn.) 

Salesroom 75  Greene  St. 

Pelgram  &  Meyer.  (See  Pater -son,  N.  J.)  Salesrooms,  58-60  Greene  St. 

Phalanx  Silk  Weaving  Co.     (See  West  Hoboken,  N.  J.) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents 85-87  Grand  St. 

Phillips,   A.  L.  &  Co.     Cloak,   Furriers'  and  Hatters' 

Trimmings.     Factory  and  Salesroom 121  Spring  St. 

Phipps  &  Train.    (See  Lakewood,  N.  J.)    Salesroom,  73  Leonard  St. 

Phoenix   Manufacturing  Co.       (See   Patcrson,  N.  J.) 

Salesrooms 20-26  Greene  St. 

Piek,  S.  Fringes  and  Cloak  Trimmings.  Iselin, 
Neeser  &  Co.,  Selling  Agents,  339  Canal  St.  Fac- 
tory   *. cor.  South  5th  Av.  and  Bleecker  St. 


130  SILK   GOODS   DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Pocachard,  A.  (See  Paterson,  N.  J.)  Salesroom  of 

Selling  Agents 419-421  Broome  St. 

Poidebard  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  North  Bergen, 

JV.  J.)  Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents 66-72  Leonard  St. 

Popper,  Isadore.     Dress  Trimmings 25  Howard  St. 

Prosnitz  &  Salzer.     Cords,  Ornaments  and  Tassels. .  .643  Broadway 

Puttfarcken,  E.  Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings,  Cords 

and  Tassels 136-138  Greene  St. 

Ratti,  Joseph.  (See  West  Hoboken,  N.  /.)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agents 49  Lispenard  St. 

Rauch,  John.  Novelty  Embroidery  Co.  Embroideries 

by  Hand  and  Machine 153  Walker  St. 

Reitmeyer  &  Co.     (See  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.)     Salesroom.. 260  Canal  St. 

Reshower,  Joseph  &  Co.  Dress  Trimmings,  Fringes 

and  Ornaments 3  East  4th  St. 

Richmond  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  Geo.  Richmond, 
President ;  L.  P.  Williams,  Treasurer.  Serges,  Dress 
Goods  and  Coat  Linings.  Factory,  445-447  West 
42d  St.  Salesroom 113  Mercer  St. 

Rockwell,  Charles  B.     (See  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.)     Office. . .56  Reade  St. 

Roggwiller,  Ed.     Swiss  Embroidery 8  Walker  St. 

Romann,  William.     Cords  and  Tassels 147  Spring  St. 

Ryer  &  Wagner.  Upholstery  Trimmings,  Frame  Fringes, 

Tassels,  Cords  and  Curtain  Loops 167-169  Canal  St. 

Sacks  &  Bro.     Silk  Fringes   34  Greene  St. 

Salathe,  I.  &  M.    Dress  Trimmings 170-172  Centre  St. 

Sandmann,  Philip.  Furriers'  Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings,  263  Bowery 

Sauquoit  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Sauquoit,  N.  Y.) 

Salesroom 54  Howard  St. 

Schloss,  H.  &  Co.  Castle  Braid  Co.  Mohair  and  Silk 

Braids  and  Millinery  Novelties 495-509  1st  Av. 

Schmadeke,  F.  W.  &  Co.     Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings,  8  E.  14th  St. 

Schmid,  Francis  J.  Coach  Laces  and  Carriage  Trim- 
mings. Factory  and  Salesroom 5  West  4th  St. 

Schmidt,  C.  A.  Drapery  and  Upholstery  Trimmings. 

Factory  and  Salesroom.  . .  .83-85  Chambers,  and  65-67  Reade  St. 

Schmutz,  Martin.     Dress' and  Millinery'Trimmings.  .5C4  W.  45th  St. 

Schnitzler,  B.     Cords  and  Tassels   039  Broadway 

Schwensen,  Wm.  Fringes,  Dress  Trimmings,  Chenille, 
Cords,  Tassels  and  Ornaments.  Agencies  at  Boston 
and  Chicago.  Factory  and  Salesroom 15-17  Mercer  St. 

Seavey,  Foster  &  Bowman.  (See  Eureka  Silk  Manu- 
facturing Co.,  Canton,  Mass.)  Salesroom 7  Mercer  St. 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY.  131 

See  &  Sheehan.     (See  Pater  sen,  N.  J.)     Office 96  Grand  St. 

Selling,  H.  &  Co.     Undertakers'  Supplies 105-111  Crosby  St. 

Silbermann,  J.  &  Co.  Bonnet  and  Belt  Ribbons,  Dress 
Trimmings,  Silk  Handkerchiefs  and  Piece  Goods. 
Factories,  452-456  Tenth  Av.,  and  at  Main  St., 
Poughkeepsie.  Salesroom 35  Mercer  St. 

Silberstein  &  Mayer.     Furriers'  Trimmings 115  Mercer  St. 

Simon,  Herman.  (See  Weehawken,  N.  J.)  Sales- 
rooms   57-63  Greene  St. 

Skinner,  Geo.  B.  &  Co.   (SeeYonkers,N.Y.)   Salesroom,  27  Mercer  St. 

Skinner,  Wm.  &  Son.     (See  Holyoke,  Mass.)     Salesroom,  508  B' way. 

Smith,  E.  B.  (See  Gurleyville,  Conn.}  Salesroom  of 

Selling  Agents 456  Broadway 

Smith  &  Rush.  Bullion,  Fancy  and  Chenille  Fringes, 

Gimps,  Cords,  Tassels,  etc 105-107  East  13th  St 

Southworth  Bros.  (See  Pater  son,  N.  J.)  Salesrooms 

of  Selling  Agents 87-89  Leonard  St. 

Splitdorf,  Henry,     Silk  Covering  to  Telegraph  Wire.  .176  Worth  St. 

Springer,  R.  &  Co.     Dealers  in  Tram  and  Twist 464  Broome  St. 

Stanton  Brothers.  Commission  Merchants  and  Manu- 
facturers of  Silk  and  Lace  Novelties 51  Greene  St. 

Stearns,  John  N.  &  Co.  Black  and  Colored  Gros-Grain 
Silks,  Brocaded  Dress  Silks,  Plain  and  Fancy  Hand- 
kerchiefs. Factories,  213-221  East  42d  St.  and 
214-224  East  43d  St.  Salesroom 458  Broome  St. 

Steinhardt,  A.     Cords  and  Tassels 121-123  South  5th  Av. 

Stepath,  Charles.  Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings,  Fringes, 

Cords  and  Tassels 30  Howard  St. 

Stiffsonn,  S.  J.  Bullion,  Fancy  and  Chenille  Fringes, 

Borders,  Galloons,  Gimps,  Cords  and  Tassels. .  .111  East  llth  St. 

Strange,  William  &  Co.  (See  Pater  son,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
rooms of  Selling  Agents , 96-98  Prince  St. 

Straus,  F.  A.     Cotton,  Worsted  and  Silk  Yarns 29  Howard  St. 

Streeter  &  May  hew.  (See  Shelburne  Falls,  Mass.) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agent 7  Mercer  St. 

Sutro  Bros.  Silk,  Mohair,  Cotton  and  Silk  Braids,  Tu- 
bular Braids  and  Hat  Cords,  Bow  Ties,  Fringe 
Braids  and  Braided  Cords.  Sole  Manufacturers  of 
Braids  on  Patent  Cards.  Agencies  at  Boston  and 
Chicago.  Factory  and  Salesroom . .  .35-37  Wooster  St. 

Teste  &  Co.  (See  West  H.boken,  N.  /.)  Salesroom 

of  Selling  Agents 85-87  Grand  St. 


132  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Thalmann,  N.     Silk  Ribbons  and  Hat  Bands ..  441-443  West  4'M  St. 

Thorp,  James  H.  &  Co.    (See  Brooklyn^    Salesrooms,  429  Broome  St. 

Thorp,  Robert  &  Sons.  Galloons,  Prussian  Bindings, 

Ribbons,  Silk,  Cotton  and  Mohair  Braids 52  Greene  St. 

Tingue,  House  &  Co.  Mohair,  Genappe,  Worsted,  Cot- 
ton and  Spun  Silk  Yarns 5G  Reade  St. 

Turner,  P.  W.  &  Son.  (See  Turnerville,  Coring  Sales- 
room  • .27  Greene  St. 

Ulmer  &  Pauer     Silk  Dyers 13-17  Crosby  St. 

Union  Braiding  Works.  John  Henry  Vogt.  Silk  Cot- 
ton and  Worsted  Braids,  Dress  and  Millinery  Trim- 
mings and  Novelties.  ..270  Bowery,  bet.  Prince  and  Houston  Sts. 

VanLiew,  H.  A.  Dress  Goods.  Factory,  617  West 

39th  St.  H.  B.  Claflin  &  Co.,  Selling  Agents 140  Church  St. 

Vickers  &  Weston.    (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.)    Salesroom,  62  White  St. 

Walter,  Richard.  Organzine,  Tram  and  Ribbons.  Mills, 

456-458  W.  46th  St.  Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents,  222-224  Church  St. 

Webendorfer,  H.  Cords,  Fringes,  Tassels  and  Trim- 
mings    288  Bowery 

Weidmann,  J.     (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)     Office 298  Canal  St. 

Weil  Bros.     Press  and  Cloak  Trimmings 75  Greene  St. 

Weinberg,  C.  &  Co.  Upholstery  and  Drapery  Trim- 
mings   740-742  Broadway 

Weiss,  William.     Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings 506  Broadway 

Wherlin,  M.  &  Co.     Silk  Dyers 341-343  East  29th  St. 

Whitehead  Bros.  (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)  Salesroom  of 

Selling  Agents 419-421  Broome  St. 

Whiteside,  James  &  Co.  (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
room of  Selling  Agents 54-56  White  St. 

Wicke,  William  &  Co.    Cigar  Ribbons Goerck  and  3d  Sts. 

Winfield  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Paterson,  N.  /.) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents 55  Mercer  St. 

Williams,  P.  H.  &  W.  Silk  and  Worsted  Upholstery 

Trimmings 145-147  Fifth  Av. 

Wimpfheimer  &  Bassett.     Dress  Trimmings 106  Greene  St. 

Woodruff  Bro.  &  Beardsley.  (See  Auburn,  N.  Y.) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents 85  Leonard  St. 

Wortendyke  Manufacturing  Co.  (See  Wortendyke,  N.  J.) 

Salesroom  of  Selling  Agents 87-89  Leonard  St. 

Zaisser,  William.     Silk  Dyer 333-335  West  52d  St 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— BROOKLYN,  &  N.  Y,  STATE.      133 

BROOKLYN. 

Bomann,  Joseph.    Dress  and  Cloak  Trimmings.    Office, 

8  Greene  St.,  New  York.     Factory 828  Myrtle  Av.,  Bkln. 

Brooklyn  Knitting  Works.    Chas.  E.  Hodge.    Silk  and 

Woolen  Knit  Goods  for  Underwear 106  Patchen  Av.,  Bkln. 

Estberg,  E.     Shade  Tassels  and  Cords.     Factory, 

72-76  Hamburg  Av.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Halsey,  A.  Designing  and  Painting  on  Silk.  Fac- 
tory.. ' 287  Unio  St.,  Bkln. 

Jennings,  A.  G.  Guipure,  Thread,  Blonde,  Brussels 
and  Spanish  Laces,  Lace  Mitts,  Scarfs,  Neck  Ties  and 
Hair  Nets.  Salesrooms,  473-475  Broome  St.,  N.  Y. 
Factory. .  ."Jennings'  Lace  Works,"  Park  Av.  and  Hall  St.,  Bkln. 

Kelty,  G.  L.  &  Co.  Upholstery  Trimmings,  Furniture 
Coverings  and  Curtain  Materials,  Cords,  Gimps,  Tas- 
sels and  Fringes.  Salesroom,  831  Broadway,  New 
York.  Factory 197-207  10th  St.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Loewenstine  &  Kayser.  Silk  Mitts,  Laces,  Scarfs  and 
Hair  Nets.  Salesroom,  187  Church  St.,  New  York, 
Factory... 20-32  Morton  St.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Maynard,  A.  &  Co.  Upholstery  Trimmings,  100  S.  6th  St.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

McLure,  S.    Upholstery  and  Dress  Trimmings,  Fringes, 

Cords,  Tassels  and  Gimps 261  Fulton  St.,  Bkln. 

Moll,  August.     Braids 146-152  First  St.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Naul,  J.     Cords  and  Braids 128  Myrtle  Av.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Reitmeyer  &  Co.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings.  Sales- 
room, 260  Canal  St.,  N.  Y.  Factory .  .17-27  S.  3d  St.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Rockwell,  Charles  B.  Columbia  Mills.  Fancy  Silk, 
Mohair  and  Worsted  Yarns.  Office,  56  Reade  St., 
New  York.  Factory 52-56  Columbia  Heights,  Bkln. 

Soar,  Henry  G.  H.    Nottingham  Laces  and  Hair  Nets. 

Factory So.  8th  and  1st  Sts.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Steinborn,  John  D.   German-American  Braiding  Works. 

Dress  Trimmings  and  Laces 57-59  Scholes  St.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Thorp,  James  H.  &  Co.    Furniture  Gimps.    Salesroom, 

429  Broome  St.,  N.  Y.    Factory,  cor.  4th  and  5th  Sts.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Will,  Jacob.     Hat  Cords 357  South  3d  St.,  Bkln.,  E.  D. 

Willes,  Thomas.     Marine  Pictures  in  Silk.     188  Columbia  St.,  Bkln. 

,  NEW   YORK   STATE— (Continued). 

Ashley  &  Bailey.     (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)     Mill Fort  Plain 

Copcutt,  William  H.   &  Co.     Ribbons,  Handkerchiefs 


134  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY."— N.  Y.  STATE. 

and  Piece  Goods.  A.  Person,  Harriman  &  Co.,  457 
and  459  Broome  St.,  New  York,  Selling  Agents. 
Mills Nepperhan  Av.,  Yonkers 

Elwood,  B.  H.  &  Co.  Dress  Goods  and  Handkerchiefs. 
John  Stewart  &  Co.,  55  Mercer  St.,  New  York,  Sell- 
ing Agents.  Mill Fort  Plain 

Funke,  Hugo.  Ribbons,  Organzine  and  Tram.  Sales- 
rooms, 23  and  25  Greene  St.,  New  York.  Rhenania 
Mills • College  Point,  L.  I. 

Gregson  &  McCulloch.     (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)     Mill  at  Sloatsburg 

Haiges,  M.  Dress,  Upholstery  and  Decorative  Trim- 
mings. Factory,  401  Main  and  9  Clinton  Sts. 
Office Room  46,  Arcade  Bldg.,  Buffalo 

Hilton,  Isaac.     Dress  Trimmings 179  River  St.,  Troy 

Jewell   &  Bassett.      Central  City  Ruffling  and  Lace 

Goods.     Factory 43  to  47  Monroe  Block,          Syracuse 

Lacy,  Lawrence.     Lace  Goods 48  South  Salina  St.,          Syracuse 

Macfarlane,  William.    Nepperhan  Silk  Works.    Thrown 

Silk,  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist Yonkers 

Nonotuck  Silk  Co.     (See  Florence,  Mass.)     Salesroom,     Gloversville 

Oneida  Community  (Limited).  Sewing  Silk  and  Ma- 
chine Twist.  Thomas  Handy,  Salesman,  53  Walker 
St.,  New  York.  Mills  and  General  Office Community 

Sauquoit  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.  L.  R.  Stelle,  Presi- 
dent ;  Richard  Rossmassler,  Treasurer.  Tram,  Or- 
ganzine and  Fringe  Silks.  Factories,  Sauquoit,  near 
Utica,  N.Y.;  Scranton,  Pa.,  and  Philadelphia.  Sales- 
rooms, cor.  Columbia  Av.  and  Randolph  St.,  Phila- 
delphia, and  54  Howard  St.,  New  York Sauquoit 

Silbermann,  J.  &  Co.    (See  New  York,  N.  Y.)  Main  St.,  Poughkeepsie 

Skinner,  Geo.  B.  &  Co.  Tram,  Organzine,  Fringe  Silk, 
Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist.  Salesroom,  27  Mer- 
cer St.,  New  York.  Mill  Yonkers 

Vogt,  Albrecht.     Dress  and  Decorative  Trimmings  and 

Casket  Decorations.    Factory. .  .  116  N.  St.  Paul  St.,        Rochester 

Roslyn   Silk  Manufacturing  Co.       Dumas   &    Taber. 

Plain  and  Brocaded  Dress  Goods,  Satins  and  Serges,  Roslyn,  L.  I. 

Woodruff  Bro.  &  Beardsley.  Piece  Goods,  Handker- 
chiefs. Whitney  &  Matthews,  85  Leonard  St.,  New 
York,  Selling  Agent's.  Mill Auburn 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY,— OHIO  &  PENN. 


OHIO. 


135 


Atkins,  A.     Dress  Trimmings 102  W.  5th  St.,       Cincinnati 

Aub,  Hackenburg  &  Co.  (See  Philadelphia,  Pa.}  Sales- 
room  65  W.  3d  St.,  Cincinnati 

Bauer,  Adolph.  Fringes  and  Dress  Trimmings.  Fac- 
tory and  Salesroom 142  W.  5th  St.,  Cincinnati 

Belding  Bros.  &  Co.  (See  Rockville,  Conn.)  Sales- 
room".   136  Race  St.,  Cincinnati 

Broegelman,  F.     Upholstery  Trimmings. 204  Vine  St.,       Cincinnati 
Franz,    John.       Fringes   and    Upholstery    Trimmings. 

Factory  and  Salesroom 25  Oregon  St.,        Cleveland 

Hoffmeister,  F.     Fringes  and  Passementerie.     Factory 

and  Salesroom 152  West  4th  St.,       Cincinnati 

Hoffmeister,  Louis.  Fringes,  Tassels,  etc.,  206  Vine  St.,       Cincinnati 

Mueller,  Anton 7  East  Pearl  St.,       Cincinnati 

Nonotuck  Silk  Co.  (See  Florence,  Mass.)  Sales- 
room   88  West  3d  St.,  Cincinnati 

PENNSYLVANIA. 

PHILADELPHIA. 

Alexander,  Wm.  B.     Cords,  Gimps  and  Tassels 16  N.  4th  St. 

Allen,  W.  P.  Raw  and  Spun  Silk,  Tassels  and  Fringes,  922  Howard  St. 

Aub,  Hackenburg  &  Co.  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine 
Twist.  Salesrooms  :  20  N.  3d  St.,  Philadelphia  ; 
526  Broadway,  New  York  ;  19  Light  St.,  Baltimore  ; 
65  W.  3d  St.,  Cincinnati;  152  5th  Av.,  Chicago. 
Factory 244-248  N.  Front  St.,  Phila. 

Barlow,  Noah.  Upholstery,  Raw  and  Spun  Silks.  Fac- 
tory   53d  St.  and  Westminster  Av. 

Belding  Bros.  &  Co.  (See  Rockville,  Conn)  G.  W. 

Ellis,  Manager.  Salesroom 6th,  cor.  of  Arch  Sts. 

Brainerd  &  Armstrong  Co.  (See  New  London,  Conn) 

Salesroom 238  Market  St. 

Bromly,  John  &  Sons.  Silk  Upholstery,  Carpets,  Rugs, 
Hangings  &  Turcomans.  T.  B.  Shoaff,  Selling  Agent, 
317  Broadway,  New  York.  Factory.  .Front  and  York  Sts.,  Phila. 

Bromly  &  Burns.  Dyers  of  Yarns  and  Silk  Noils. 

4026  Orchard  St.,  Frankford 

Brooks,  Geo.  &  Son.  Upholstery  and  Furniture  Cov- 
ering,   55th  St.  and  Westminster  Av. 

Burnley,  Joseph 1344  Columbia  Av, 


I36  SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— PHILADELPHIA. 

Courts,  H.     Dress  Trimmings    163  N.  2d  St. 

Coleman,  William.     Upholstery  Trimmings 25  N.  6th  St. 

Cunningham,  W.  B.     Upholstery  Trimmings 204  Church  St. 

Cutter,  John  D.  &  Co.  (See  Newark,  N.  /.)  Salesroom,  735  Market  St. 

Davenport,  George  &  Edwin.    Upholstery  Trimmings. 

Susquehanna  Av.  and  American  St. 

Davenport,  H.      Upholstery  Trimmings Mascher  and  York  Sts. 

Davenport,  John.  Upholstery  Goods.  Somerset,  Mascher  &  Nprris  Sts. 

Ennis,  George  W.  &  Co.  Upholstery  Trimmings.  Sales- 
rooms, 64-66  White  St.,  N.  Y.  Mill,  Diamond  &  Howard  Sts.,  Phila. 

Fairhill  Manufacturing  Co.     Silk  Fringes  and  Tassels. 

13th  and  Buttonwood  Sts. 

Forrest,  John.     Yarn  Printing 25th  and  Callowhill  Sts. 

Freyer,  H.  T.     Dress  Trimmings.     Factory,  25  South 

8th  St.     Salesroom , .  727  Jayne  St. 

Godshalk,  E.  H.  Fringes  and  Ladies'  Dress  Trim- 
mings. Salesroom,  323  Broadway,  New  York.  Fac- 
tory  cor.  of  24th  and  Hamilton  Sts.,  Phila. 

Graham,  J.  C.  Dress,  Cloak  and  Upholstery  Trim- 
mings. Factory  and  Salesroom 513  Cherry  St. 

Griswold  Worsted  Co.  (Limited).     (See  Darby,  Pa.} 

Office 322  Chestnut  St. 

Hansell,  S.  R.  &  F.     Upholstery  Trimmings 21  N.  4th  St. 

Harrison,  Edwin.     Upholstery  Trimmings 141  Master  St. 

Harrop,  J.  T.     Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist 621  Market  St 

Hellwig  &  Spyr.     Silk  Dyers 122  Eutaw  St. 

Heminway,  M.  &  Sons  Silk  Co.    (See  Watertown,  Conn.} 

Salesroom 14  N.  5th  St. 

Hensel,  Colladay  &  Co.     Dress  Trimmings 7th  St.,  near  Arch. 

Holland  Manufacturing  Co.     (See  Willimantic,  Conn.} 

Salesroom 633  Market  St. 

Hooley,   B.   &   Son.      Tram,   Twist  and   Fringe   Silk. 

Mills 442-448  N.  13th  St. 

Horstmann,  William  H.  &  Sons.  Gum  Silks,  Dress  and 
Cloak  Trimmings,  Ribbons,  Fringes,  Floss,  Uphol- 
stery Trimmings,  Coach  and  Carriage  Laces  and 
Trimmings,  Jacquard  Weaving,  Military  Equip- 
ments, Regalia,  Theatrical  Goods,  Silk  Flags,  Bunt- 
ing, Sashes  and  Scarfs.  Salesrooms,  106  Grand  St., 
New  York,  and  at  Factory cor.  of  5th  and  Cherry  Sts.,  Phila. 

Hovey,  F.  S.     Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist.    . .  ,248  Chestnut  St. 

Hoyle,  Harrison  &  Kaye.    Silk  Upholstery  Goods  and 

Curtain  Materials Lehigh  Av.  and  Howard  St. 


SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY.— PHILADELPHIA.  137 

Hunter,  William  &  Son.      Upholstery  Coverings  and 

Tapestries 611-617  Dickenson  St. 

Itschner  (Werner)  &  Co.  Tioga  Silk  Mill.  Ribbons  and 
Hatbands.  Salesrooms,  712  Market  St.,  Philadelphia, 
and  70  Mercer  St.,  New  York.  Mills,  Tioga  Station,  Germantown 

Jenkins,  George  E.     Upholstery  Trimmings ,731  Filbert  St. 

Johnson,  D.  Waldo.    Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist.  .323  Arch  St. 

Jones,  T.  &  Son.     Silk  Dyers 110  Putnam  St. 

Kaufman,  Strouse  &  Co.    Scarfs,  Ribbons,  Fringes  and 

Dress  Trimmings.     Salesroom cor.  of  4th  and  Race  Sts. 

Kemper  &  McAuliffe.  Fringes  and  Plush  Trimmings . .  823  Market  St. 

Landenberger,  Charles  H , ...  1 711  Randolph  St. 

Lazarus,  Goldsmith  &  Co.  Chenille  and  Dress  Trim- 
mings   12th  and  Buttonwood  Sts. 

Leonard  Silk  Co.  (See  Warehouse  Point,  Conn.}  Sales- 
room  .- 414  Arch  St. 

Lipper,  M.  W.  &  Co.  Keystone  Braid  Mills.  Dress 
Trimmings.  Salesrooms,  144-146  N.  5th  St.,  Phila- 
delphia ;  144  Wabash  Av.,  Chicago,  and  77  Franklin 
St.,  New  York.  Mills  at Wayne  Station 

Mabrey,  Wm.  H 414  Arch  St. 

Maurer,  F.  W.  &  Son.     Manufacturers  of  Upholstery 

Trimmings 7-9  N.  5th  St. 

Montague  and  White.  Ingrain  Carpets,  Woolen,  Wor- 
sted and  Silk  Noil  Yarns Howard  and  Berks  Sts. 

Morell,  Charles  &  Son.     Silk  Dyers 2219  Richmond  St. 

Mozieres,  L.  E.  &  P.     Silk  Dyers Philadelphia 

Perks,  George  A.  &  Co.  (See  Camden,  N.  /.)  Sales- 
rooms  39-41  N.  2d  St. 

Perry,  Vincent.     Silk  Elastic  Hosiery.. 48  Harvey  St.,  Germantown 

Revel,  Justinian.     Dress  Goods  and  Trimmings. 

55th  St.  and  Wyalusing  Av. 

Ridgway,  Edward.  Upholstery  Goods,  62d  &  Hamilton  Sts.,  W.  Phila. 

Roehm,  Joseph.     Dealer  in  Sewing  Silk  and  Twist 13  N.  4th  St. 

Rose,  Charles.     Cords,  Dress  Trimmings  and  Tassels.. 432  N.  3d  St. 

Sauquoit  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.    (See  Sauquoit,  N.  Y.) 

Factory  and  Salesroom.  ...cor.  of  Columbia  Av.  and  Randolph  St. 

Schultheiss,  E.      Dress  Trimmings  and  Fringes.  .3d  and  Poplar  Sts. 

Shrack  &  Sherwood.    Dress  and  Upholstery  Trimmings 

and  Passementerie 231  Market  St. 

Stead  &  Miller      Upholstery  Goods Coral  and  Adam  Sts. 

Sybert,  Josiah  B.  Silk  and  Worsted  Goods,  Columbia  Av.,  bel.  10th  St. 


138   SILK  GOODS  DIRECTORY,— PHILA.,  PA.,  UTAH,  VT.,  VA.,  CAN. 

Vickers  &  Weston.  Cotton,  Wool  and  Silk  Hosiery. 
Agencies,  Colladay,  Trout  &  Co.,  24-26  Bank  St., 
Philadelphia,  and  62  White  St.,  New  York.  Fac- 
tory   Tulip  and  Palmer  Sts.,  Phila. 

Walliser,  August.     Fringes,  Cords  and  Buttons 132  N.  8th  St. 

Walliser,  Charles.  Cords,  Millinery  Fringes  and  Passe- 
menteries   251  N.  8th  St. 

Woelpper  Bros.     Upholstery  Trimmings Lehigh  Av.  and  3d  St. 

PENNSYLVANIA— (Continued). 
Adelaide  Silk  Factory.      Phoenix  Manufacturing  Co. 

(See  Paterson,  N.  /.) Allentown 

Brainerd  &  Armstrong  Co.     (See  New  London,  Conn.) 

Salesroom 4  Fifth  Av. ,         Pittsburg 

Dexter,  Lambert  &  Co.    (See  Paterson,  N.  /.)    Belle- 

mont  and  Nelson  Mills Hawley 

Griswold  Worsted  Co.  (Limited).     Spun  Silk.     Office, 

322  Chestnut  St ,  Philadelphia.     Mills  at Darby 

Sauquoit  Silk  Manufacturing  Co.    (See  Sauquoit,  N.  Y.) 

Mills  at Scranton 

Simon,  Herman.     (See  Weehawken^  N.  J.)     Mill  at..  Easton 

UTAH   TERRITORY. 

Egbert,  D.  K.     Dress  Goods  and  Sewing  Silk Kaysville 

Utah  Silk  Association.  Hon.  Alex.  C.  Pyper,  Presi- 
dent and  Superintendent ;  A.  M.  Musser,  Secretary 
and  Treasurer.  Sewing  Silk  and  Machine  Twist. 
Factory  and  Office , Salt  Lake  City 

VERMONT. 
Stearns,  J.  F.     Sewing  Silk  and  Twist Brattleboro' 

VIRGINIA. 

Old  Dominion  Manufacturing  Co.  M.  Umstadter, 
President.  Embroideries ,  Norfolk 


CANADA. 

Belding,  Paul  &  Co.   Sewing  Silk  and  Twist.   (See  Rock- 

ville,  Conn)    Salesroom  and  Mill . .  .28-30  St.  George  St.,  Montreal 


RAW  SILK  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY.  139 

Canada  Silk  Co.  A.  M.  Foster,  President  ;  C.  Eailis, 
Secretary  and  Treasurer  ;  Reuben  Kyle,  Manager. 
Sewing  Silk,  Machine  Twist  and  Dress  Goods Montreal 

Corriveau  Silk  Mills  Co.  Plain  and  Brocaded  Dress 

Silks,  Handkerchiefs  and  Ribbons Montreal 


Importers  of  Raw  Silk. 

NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Arai,  R.,  Representative  of  the  Doshin  Silk  Co.,  Yoko- 
hama  18  Mercer  St. 

Auffm'Ordt,  C.  A.  &  Co 33-35  Greene  St. 

Blydenburgh,  Jesse  S.,  Agent  of  Walsh,  Hall  &  Co., 

Yokohama  - 66  Pine  St. 

Bourdis,  J.  &  Co 51  Mercer  St. 

Bursley,  Ira.,  Agent  of  Fraser,  Farley  &  Co.,  Yokohama,  64  South  St. 

China  and  Japan  Tracing  Co.  (Limited).  .34,  36  and  38  Burling  Slip 

Courian,   Paul 109  Grand  St. 

Fearon,  Low  &  Co.,  Shanghai.     Agency 112  Front  St. 

Frazar  &  Co.,  of  China.     Agency 74  South  St. 

Gibbes,  A.  H.,  Agent  of  Swire  Bros.,  Shanghai 93  Wall  St. 

Hadden  &  Co 109-111  Worth  Sr. 

Kai  Oria,  Agent  of  Yamato  Trading  Co.,  Japan 30  Howard  St. 

Lane,  Geo.  W.  &  Co 107  Water  and  93  Front  Sts. 

Low,  A.  A.  &  Bros .31  Burling  Slip 

Low,  C.  Adolphe  &  Co.,  Representatives  of  Ulysse 

Pila  &  Co..  Lyons  and  Shanghai 42  Cedar  St. 

Luckemeyer  &  Schefer  ;  also,  Sole  Agents  of  H.  Lud- 

wig  &  Co.,  Yokohama 472-474  Broome  St. 

Ludwig,  E.,  Agent  of  Aries  Dufour  &  Co.,  Lyons,  4G9-471  Broome  Si. 

Milton,  Wm.  F.  &  Co 159  Maiden  Lane 

Morewood  &  Co 125  Front  St. 

Phillips,  John  C.  &  Co .k.    .  .    130  Water  St. 

Richardson,  B.  &  Son,  Agents  for  Durand,  Badel  & 

Huvey,  Lyons  and  St.  Etienne 5  Mercer  St. 

Russell  &  Co.,  Hong  *?ong  and  Shanghai.     Office 59  Wall  Sc. 

Ryle,  William    54  Howard  St. 

Smith,  Wm.  H.  &  Son 77  William  St. 

Stoddard,  Lovering  &  Co 8  Thomas  St. 

Walker,  John  T.,  Son  &  Co.    81  Pine  St. 

Wetmore,  Cryder  &  Co 73-74  South  St. 

Wood  &  Payson 64  Pine  St. 


140  RAW  SILK  DIRECTORY.— NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Importers  of  Spun  Silk. 

Ryle,  Wm.,  Agent  of  Lister  &  Co.,  Bradford,  England,  54  Howard  St. 

Thairlwall,  Wm.  C 38  Lincoln  St.,  Boston. 

Wamsley,  Philip  &  Co 353  Canal  St. 

Brokers  in  Raw  Silk. 

Busch,  P 107  Grand  St. 

Cornu,  Th/&  H.  Saillet 49  Lispenard  St. 

O'Donoghue  &  Co 91  Grand  St. 

Hanssen,  H.  J 34  Mercer  St. 

Haywood,  Geo.  M 39  White  St. 

Johnson,  Rowland 54  Beaver  St. 

Richardson,  B.  &  Son 5  Mercer  St. 

Simes,  Charles  F 46  Howard  St. 

Smith,  Isaac.  , 4  Cedar  St. 

New  York  Silk  Conditioning  Works  (Limited). 

B.  Richardson,  President  and  Treasurer  ;  L.  Muzard, 

General  Manager 13  Mercer  St. 

Women's  Silk  Culture  Association. 

Mrs.  J.  Lucas,  President 1328  Chestnut  St.,  Philadelphia 


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